Why should I go? Because it’s a terrific little capital, with
quirky sights, good food and a great outoorsy vibe. It feels like Budapest
or Cracow did after they’d been spruced up, but before they were overrun by
western brands and mass tourism. The crowds will surely come soon — direct
flights have made it temptingly accessible — but go this year and you’ll
have it to yourself.
Still got your doubts? Let’s quash two now. No, it’s not a war zone: except
for one direct hit on the parliament in 1991 (you can see what’s left of the
prime-ministerial settee in the city museum), the Balkan conflict left
Zagreb unscathed. And yes, the Croatian language is fiendishly difficult,
but you won’t need to speak a word of it. Everyone speaks English — with a
smile.
What do I do? First, a little light sightseeing. A funicular
trundles to the medieval Upper Town, from where there are great views of the
city. The boom of the noonday gun has sounded from the white-walled Lotrscak
Tower since 1877. Follow the winding lane from here into the
Pinocchio-pretty Radiceva street, full of pastel facades, outdoor cafes and
art galleries.
The city’s main cathedral sits in a horseshoe of huge defensive walls. Inside,
it’s an incongruous combination: delicate stained-glass windows and less
than delicate, Liberace-style gold chandeliers, improbably shipped in from a
Las Vegas casino.
The Lower Town is a neatly planned grid of fine baroque buildings, spaced out
around the city’s second horseshoe — Lenuci’s Horseshoe, named after the man
who planned a U-shape of green spaces, statues, museums and galleries. It
makes for a lovely stroll — don’t miss the engaging Arts and Crafts Museum.
Next, some not-so-light drinking. Zagreb has a pub culture to rival London’s,
though it’s arguably rather more civilised. As evening falls, head for the
narrow streets of the Old Town and pull up a seat outside the modishly
eccentric Tabu (Tkalciceva 82). Or glug a pint in hobbit-style surroundings
at Tolkien’s Pub (Katarinin Trg 3; 485 1776). For an infusion of live jazz,
the BP Club (Teslina 7; 481 4444, www.bpclub.hr) has a warm welcome and good
local musicians. Admission costs £3.
On Sunday mornings, locals cajole their hangovers into one of the dozens of
coffee shops around Bana Josipa Jelacica square. This weekly institution
reveals the city’s intimacy — you might find yourself just a table away from
the prime minister. After that, don’t miss the haunting beauty of the
Mirogoj Cemetery. The grand, domed entrance is flanked by two lantern-strewn
loggias, and the large grounds contain a sculpture park scattered among the
gravestones.
Where do I stay? For history in style, it has to be the Hotel
Regent Esplanade (456 6666, www.regenthotels.com; doubles from £153). Built
as a night stop for Orient-Express passengers, it was recently restored to
its full art-nouveau luxury. For a designer boutique feel, the Arcotel (469
6000, www.arcotel.at; doubles from £80) has good rooms with trendy touches,
such as pillowcases adorned with portraits of the world’s great thinkers.
Where do I eat? Dolac is a real farmers’ market: not a trendy
chorizo-gruyère-wrap affair, but the place locals go to buy fresh fruit and
veg for their suppers. It’s great for people-watching over a coffee and
pastry.
Strukli are the omnipresent Zagreb speciality, made from cottage cheese and
pastry baked in a cream sauce. The best in the city are at Zinfandel’s, in
the Hotel Regent Esplanade (see above; £5), the second best are from Lady
Sram (Mesnicka 12; 485 1122; £2.40). Good local cuisine can also be found at
Vinodol (Teslina 10; 481 1427), with various hearty variations on veal from
£5; or, for great Croatian dishes in ramped-up rustic decor, take a cab to
Dva Goluba (Maksimirska 7, 232 8950; mains from £6).
How do I get there? Until recently, the only nonstop flights
to Zagreb were from Heathrow with Croatia Airlines (020 8563 0022,
www.croatiaairlines.hr), with fares from £140. Now, though, no-frills Wizz
(www.wizzair.com) has started nonstop flights from Luton; from £65.
