Why should I go? Two reasons. First, La Rochelle itself: one of the
best-preserved port towns in France, with a clutch of handsome 18th-century
streets crowding around the impressive fortified harbour of the Vieux Port,
and a mouthwatering array of restaurants and cafes.
Second is the Ile de Ré, a sunny, sandy scrap of land just a couple of miles
offshore, where hopping on a bike and flopping on a beach are both equally
tempting. Factor in the short flight (which, amazingly for a low-cost,
actually lands right next to the town) and you’ve got the perfect seaside
long weekend.
Where do I stay? In prime position next to the Vieux Port, tucked
behind one of the hefty twin stone towers that guard its entrance, is the
three-star Hôtel St Jean d’Acre (4 Place de la Chaîne; 00 33-5 46 41 73 33, www.hotel-la-rochelle.com
; doubles from £108). Several of its 60 rooms overlook the harbour – go for
room 401 and you get a terrace with a grandstand view of the many bobbing
boats.
A cheaper option is the Hôtel de Bordeaux (05 46 41 31 22, www.hotel-bordeaux-fr.com
; doubles from £47), across the harbour on the pedestrianised Rue St
Nicolas, home to a busy flea market on Saturdays. If you’re coming in high
season, it is wise to book your accommodation ahead, especially if you want
to stay in the old town itself.
What do I do? With two full days, devote the first to La Rochelle. The
town centre is largely pedestrianised, and wonderfully walkable: from the
harbour, head through the thickset gateway of the Porte de la Grosse Horloge
and onto the main drag, the Rue du Palais. If you’re in the mood for
spending, this is the place to do it; if not, just admire the smart arcaded
shopfronts and ponder why British high streets never look this good. At the
top end of the street, on Place de Verdun, pause for a coffee (or something
a little more restorative) at the ornate, mirror-clad Café de la Paix.
Round the corner, Rue Gargoulleau leads to the Musée des Beaux-Arts (£2.40)
and the bustling market, which sprawls from the Place du Marché into the
surrounding streets – a good spot to pick up a bottle of Pineau des
Charentes, the potent local aperitif. The swish aquarium (9am-8pm, £8.50),
to the south of the old town, near the Port des Minimes marina, is well
worth a visit if it rains: one of the best in Europe, the highlight is the
1.5m-litre shark tank. If the sun is shining, hit the beach – Plage de la
Concurrence is closest to the Vieux Port, but Plage des Minimes is smarter.
Day two, and time to get out of town and explore the Ile de Ré. Take the Rébus
bus from Place de Verdun to St Martin-de-Ré (£3.50; about every 90 mins;
call 05 46 09 20 15 for times). It’s the “capital” of the island, not that
you’d know it to look at the sleepy harbour and shuttered whitewashed houses.
Pick up a picnic lunch and then hire bikes from Cycland (Impasse de Sully; 05
46 09 08 66; half-day £6.50). The island is as flat as the proverbial crêpe
and covered with a network of cycle paths – wend your way southwards past
vineyards and pine forests and you’ll emerge at the dune-backed beach of
Gros-Jonc. Back in St Martin, make sure you leave time to choose from the
dozens of ice-cream flavours at La Martinière, on the quayside, before
catching the bus back to La Rochelle.
Where do I eat? Good question – the Vieux Port is crammed with enticing
restaurants, and seafood naturally figures high on the menu. A few doors
down from the Hôtel St Jean d’Acre, L’Aunis (14 Rue St Jean du Pérot; 05 46
41 03 00; three courses from £11.50) offers delicious food, smart decor and
a surprisingly small bill to round it off. Also popular for fish is A Côté
de Chez Fred (30-34 Rue St Nicolas; mains from £7) – the name refers to Fred
the fishmonger next door. For gourmet grub, the best address in town is
Richard Coutanceau (05 46 41 48 19; menu dégustation £61),
overlooking the beach at Plage de la Concurrence.
How do I get there? Flybe (0871 522 6100, www.flybe.com
) flies to La Rochelle from Birmingham, Manchester and Southampton, from £38
one way. Or try Ryanair (www.ryanair.com
) or EasyJet (www.easyjet.com ). Take
bus no 7 from the airport to Place de Verdun (80p).
Rob Kingston was a guest of Flybe and the Hôtel St Jean d’Acre
Why dont you promote train travel more
Simon, Weymouth, Dorset
So is the Hôtel St Jean d’Acre the best hotel in La Rochelle, or just a freebie? I'm left confused.
L Thompson, Bath,
A wonderful and entertaining city. We particularly enjoyed our nights at The General Humbert's Irish Pub.
A great night's drinking at the heart of the city, The General Humbert’s is well worth a look. The atmosphere is lively and convivial with very relaxed and friendly patrons populating the establishment and excellent service provided behind the bar.
Situated near the Old harbour and around the corner from the Aquarium, The General Humbert’s is probably the most popular pub in town and the ideal place to have pint while watching a great match. A place you don't want to miss when in La Rochelle!
Damien Bradley, Edenderry, Ireland
wonderful city, enough to entertain adults aswell as small children! even in the rain! 1p flight from Ryanair, stanstead beat that.........
Bob, cleveland,
Ruth - he w as a guest of Flybe!
Trevor Griffiths, South Bucks, UK
Why not tell us that it's quite easy to get there by train?
Ruth Webb, Bristol,