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From Times Online

August 11, 2005

Spas, bars and a dip with a dolphin in Southwest Ireland

In Ireland’s southwest, where West Cork flows into County Kerry, everything is on a larger scale

The highlights

1. The Beara Peninsula

Begin at Glengarriff, where the exotic gardens were a favourite of Queen Victoria, and take a ferry to the garden island of Ilnacullin. Exchange gentility for the rugged Beara Peninsula and enjoy the north shore’s scenery en route.

2. Kenmare

Known in Gaelic as ‘Little Nest’ and surrounded by mountains, Kenmare is a gourmet highlight and one of the most attractive places in Ireland. Centrepiece is the country’s first destination spa at the Park Hotel Kenmare (00 353 6441 200, www.parkkenmare.com) – take a dip in the infinity pool that looks across to Kenmare Bay. Double from £300.

3. Killarney

On the doorstep of the bustling town you’ll find peace in Killarney’s National Park among amethyst-blue lakes and sandstone mountains. Hire a jaunting car to explore Muckcross House and Gardens. Stay at glitzy Killarney Plaza Hotel (00 353 642 1100, www.killarneyplaza.com), home of Ireland’s first Molton Brown spa. Doubles from £120.

4. Ring of Kerry

Stunning views of majestic mountains, rocky coves and idyllic Blue Flag beaches where horses gallop make the N70 the most famous drive in Ireland – go anti-clockwise for the best scenery. Don’t miss Glenbeigh’s recreated 1800s bog village and take a boat from Cahersiveen to visit the Skellig Islands.

5. Dingle Peninsula

Take the R563 through Milltown to join a spectacular cliff-side drive on the Dingle Peninsula. At Dingle Bay, boats chug from the harbour to greet Funghi the dolphin. Pause at Fahan, where 400 beehive-shaped huts stand, and stop at panoramic Slea Head, the backdrop to the film Ryan’s Daughter. Stay at the Dingle Skellig Hotel (00 353 66 915 0200, www.dingleskellig.com), with its hot tub overlooking the harbour. Doubles from £76.

6. Connor Pass

Pause at the top of the Connor Pass – Ireland’s highest – to take in the magnificent views of deep valleys contrasting with a brilliant blue coastline. Then arrive at the windsurfing beaches of Castlegregory.

For more information on touring Ireland, call 0800 039 7000 or visit www.tourismireland.com.