Why should I go? Regular low-cost passengers know that destinations aren’t always what they seem: that flight to Paris that lands in a turnip field near Boulogne; the weekend in Venice where you spend an hour on a bus before you catch a whiff of a vaporetto. But book a Ryanair flight to “Milan” and you can make the small print work for you — because you actually end up a stone’s throw from the centre of Bergamo, which is, frankly, a much more attractive prospect than its overbearing neighbour.

In Bergamo, you get two cities for the price of one — the newer Citta Bassa (lower town), with its broad boulevards and air of comfortable wealth; and, high above on a hilltop, the medieval spires and shady squares of the walled Citta Alta, reached by steep cobbled lanes if you’re up to it, or a fun funicular if you’re not. This being Italy, you also get great food and as much shopping as your wallet can handle.

Where do I stay? Five minutes after stepping off the airport bus, you can be checking in at the Mercure Palazzo Dolci (Viale Papa Giovanni XXIII 100; 00 39-035 227411, www.mercure.com; doubles from £97, B&B), which has 88 stylish rooms in an imposingly pink neo-renaissance building in the centre of the Citta Bassa. Hotels up in the Citta Alta tend towards the cramped side of characterful — the Agnello d’Oro (Via Gombito 22; 035 249883; doubles £64, B&B) is basic but a good bet if you want to stay in the old town.

Where do I eat? Da Franco (Via Colleoni 8; 035 238565) is a bright and welcoming restaurant just around the corner from the Piazza Vecchia in the centre of the Citta Alta. Just outside the city walls at the far end of town is La Colombina (Via Borgo Canale 12; 035 261402), with an elegant tiled dining room and a terrace overlooking the Lombardy Plain far below. Try the casoncelli — meaty ravioli in a rich butter sauce.

What do I do? The big draw in the Citta Alta is the basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore, on Piazza Vecchia, a festival of OTT statues and carvings — and flash-happy tourists. A more chilled church is little San Michele al Pozzo Bianco, with frescoes dating back to the 13th century.

For more masterpieces, descend through San Agostino gate to the Accademia Carrara (035 399677, www.accademiacarrara.bergamo.it), with works by Botticelli, Dürer and Rubens, and the adjacent Galleria d’Arte Moderna e Contemporanea. But don’t overdo the culture — the beauty of Bergamo is in simply strolling, stopping just to top up on espresso or gelato.

If you’re here to spend, try Via XX Settembre, in the Citta Bassa, for fashion, and Salumeria Angelo Mangili (Via Gombito 8, Citta Alta) for ham, cheese and wine. And should the city heat get to you, hop on a bus to Sarnico (£7 return, 50 mins), and spend an afternoon beside breezy Lake Iseo.

How do I get there? Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) flies to Milan/Bergamo from Stansted, Luton, Prestwick, Newcastle, Liverpool, Dublin and Shannon. Jet2 (0871 226 1737, www.jet2.com) flies from Leeds/Bradford. The airport bus takes about 15 minutes and costs £1.

Rob Kingston stayed in Bergamo as a guest of the Mercure Palazzo Dolci

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