Jeremy Lazell
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Why should I go? Because the largest island in the Inner Hebrides is
also the most spectacular: towering cliffs, stunning sea birds and jagged
peaks rising out of the sea.
It’s not just the granite and gannets that are so uplifting, either — it’s the
people. More than 40% of islanders speak Gaelic, and nowhere in Britain
feels so proud of its heritage as here: hit the pub when a session of Gaelic
reels breaks out, and just see if you’re not still smiling the next day.
What do I do? The good news is, Skye doesn’t get dark until
well past 10.30pm at this time of year, which leaves an awful lot of play
time.
What you can’t avoid are the Cuillin Hills. Dark, brooding and utterly
magnificent, these mountains glower down over the island, taunting you to
have a go. My two favourite walks here are as breathtaking as they are easy.
The first is a one-hour traverse of the Quiraing, a forest of pinnacles on
the Trotternish peninsula, starting just north of the Old Man of Storr (OS
Landranger 23, grid reference NG439678). The second leads from Glenbrittle
right into an amphitheatre of 3,000ft peaks at Coire Lagan, with views over
Soay and Rum.
For an alternative view of Skye, get down in the Atlantic itself. Sea.fari
Adventures (01471 833316, www.whalespotting.co.uk) has one- to three-hour
(£12/£34) cruises from Armadale that usually turn up minke whales, seals and
porpoises, sometimes even orcas and humpback whales. Skyak Adventures (01471
833428, www.skyakadventures.com) has sea-kayaking day trips, for experts and
paddle virgins alike, for £65. Back on dry land, Chris Mitchell (01470
511265, www.cmitchell3.members.beeb.net) runs fascinating half-day wildlife
walks for £10.
Where do I stay? Kinloch Lodge (01471 833333,
www.kinloch-lodge.co.uk), a 17th-century shooting lodge on the shores of
Loch na Dal, is more house party than country-house hotel. It has loch- and
hill-view doubles from £130pp, half-board. Or try the Flodigarry Hotel
(01470 552203, www.flodigarry.co.uk), with huge views of Staffin Bay.
Doubles in the stately main house start at £65pp, B&B, and rooms in
Flora MacDonald’s old cottage from £50pp, B&B.
Where do I eat? The Three Chimneys (01470 511258,
www.threechimneys.co.uk) is a candlelit crofter’s cottage near Dunvegan,
with incredible Highland seafood and game (three courses about £47.50). Loch
Bay Seafood Restaurant (01470 592235) is an unfussy, cheaper alternative,
also near Dunvegan, on the water.
How do I get there? Airlines flying to Inverness include
EasyJet (www.easyjet.co.uk) from Gatwick, Luton, Bristol and Belfast;
Eastern Airways (0870 366 9100, www.easternairways.com) from Birmingham,
Leeds/Bradford, Manchester and Newcastle; and British Airways (0870 850
9850, www.ba.com) from Gatwick. Two days’ car hire from EasyJet costs from
£52; or try Avis (0870 010 0287, www.avis.co.uk). From Inverness, it’s a
wonderful 90-minute drive to the Skye Bridge at Kyle of Lochalsh.
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