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Gawping at the Guggenheim, BILBAO

In the same way Glasgow outlived a grimy past to become the darling of America’s travel media, Bilbao gambled on the cultural dollar and won. By becoming the fi rst European city to fully embrace New York’s Guggenheim franchise, it transformed itself from a briny, rusting behemoth into a modern art mecca. Frank O. Gehry’s brief was to draw the gaze of he world; his reply was an audacious, ingenious conflation of Bilbao’s past and future, a riverine citadel moulded from titanium and limestone, steel and glass. Up close it appears as an urban planner’s daydream gone delightfully wrong; viewed from the opposite bank of the river it assumes the guise of a gilded, glittering ark. But it all depends on your mood and the notoriously unpredictable Basque weather: on other days it broods like a computergenerated Marie Celeste, or glints rudely like a capricious cross between Monty Python and El Dorado.

Gehry extends the aquatic theme by subsuming Bilbao’s historic waterway into his design, so you can also take its measure by means of the nifty raised walkway and the connecting bridge, Puente de la Salve. By the main entrance sits Jeff Koons’ Puppy, an oversized, overstuffed fl oral statue, lost in an eternal siesta. Even the entrance is surreal, descending into the museum’s ridiculously capacious atrium and voluminous galleries where, inevitably, the contents are rarely afforded quite as much attention.

In amidst the rotated collections of Abstract Expressionism and Pop Art, interactive installations and excitable knots of foreign students, the powers that be continue to envisage the wordless horror of Picasso’s Guernica as a centrepiece, even if it still languishes in Madrid. Guernica or no, every city and its satellite is now clamouring for a piece of the Guggenheim action – stand up Guadalajara, sit down Rio – but Spain remains the titanium template, proof that Bilbao’s ship has fi nally come in.

Need to know

The Guggenheim (www.guggenheim-bilbao.es; Tues– Sun 10am–8pm; July & Aug also Mon; €10.50) is in Bilbao’s Abandoibarra district.

Read the Times Online article: Bilbao thrives on its new persona

24 MORE IN BRIEF

Watching REAL MADRID at the Bernabéu

Situated on c/Concha Espina, the Bernabéu has its own metro stop (Line10) and is served by various buses. Any available tickets (Champions League Group Stage games are a good bet) usually go on sale around a week before the match via a credit card hotline (902 324 324).

Living without sleep in VALENCIA

For an excellent overview of what’s hot pick up a free copy of the English-language listings guide 24-7 Valencia (www.thisisvalencia.com ) or the clubbier Spanish-language alb (A Little Beat).

Read the Times Online article: Instant weekend: Valencia

Granada: Exploring the ALHAMBRA

The Alhambra is open March–Oct daily 8.30am–8pm, also Tues–Sat 10–11.30pm; Nov–Feb daily 8.30am–6pm, Fri & Sat also 8–9.30pm; €10. Advance booking recommended (www.alhambratickets.com).

Read the Times Online article: Instant weekend: Granada

Discovering the Conquistadors' spoils, Trujillo and Cáceres

Most mansions are restricted to exterior viewing. WOMAD (www.womad.org) is held during the first fortnight in May, with Tinariwen, Susana Baca and Talvin Singh all appearing in recent years.

Heading for the heights in the PICOS DE EUROPA

The main park office in Oviedo, c/Arquitecto Reguera 13 (985 241 412, www.picoseuropa.net) has Spanish-only info on routes and accommodation. www.asturiaspicosdeeuropa.com is a useful English-language site maintained by expat hoteliers.

Read the Times Online article: The majesty of the Picos mountains

Running with the bulls in PAMPLONA

The first thing to do when you arrive is to head for Plaza del Castillo to the mobile tourist office for a timetable of events and your free map. The official website www.sanfermin.com has more information.

Skiing under a Spanish sun, Banqueira-Beret, SIERRA NEVADA

Sierra Nevada Ski Station (www.sierranevadaski.com) is 32km north of Granada. The Spanish aversion to queuing means weekends, Christmas and Easter are probably best avoided. Check www.baqueira.es for up to date info on Banqueira-Beret.

Pulpo addiction: going gastro in GALICIA

Santiago de Compostela’s Rúa do Franco is lined with great seafood places and almost every Galician town has a decent pulpería. For some of the best percebes, try the hamlet of San Andrés de Teixido or the nearby port of Cedeira. Further down the coast, O Grove is another seafood paradise; the shellfish festival usually runs for a week, starting on the second Sunday in October. Carballiño’s octopus festival is held on the second Sunday in August.

Read the Times Online article: Spain's wild northern frontier

Surreal life at the Dalí Museum

The museum is open daily: June 10.30am–6pm; July–Sept 9am–8pm; Oct–May Tues–Sun 10.30am–6pm; €10; www.salvador-dali.org.

Cruising through the Coto de Doñana

Daily four-hour bus tours depart from the reception centre at El Acebuche, 4km north of the coastal resort of Matalascañas (959 430 432). River trips are available from Sanlúcar de Barrameda (956 363 644).

Going for your guns in ALMERIA

All locations are strung out along the N-340a Amería to Tabernas road. Texas Hollywood is open daily 10am–10pm (€4.50; www.fort-bravo.com); call 950 066 014 for horse-riding tours; Mini-Hollywood, variable hours, €18; Western Leone 10am–7pm, €10.

The bold sights and subtle flavours of LA RIOJA

Marques de Riscal tours are bookable in advance (€6; www.marquesderiscal.com); Roda (www.roda.es) and Ysios (www.byb.es) by appointment; Muga’s tours in English Mon-Fri 10am (www.bodegasmuga.com ; €5).

Read the Times Online article: Instant weekend: Rioja

The lost streets of Rio Honor de Castilla, LEONA

Rio Honor de Castilla/Rio de Onor is 12km from the Leonese fortress town of Puebla de Sanabria; taxis (980 620 301) regularly make the 20-minute trip. Clean and comfortable accommodation is available in the Casa do Povo for around €20; contact the village presidente on 273 927 128, or ask for directions to his house.

TAPAS crawling in the capital, Madrid

Casa del Abuelo c/Victoria 12; Las Bravas c/Alvarez Gato 3; La Oreja de Oro c/Victoria 9; Mesón del Champiñones Cava de San Miguel 17; Taberna de Antonio Sánchez c/Mesón de Paredes 13; Taberna de Dolores Plaza de Jesús 4

Read the Times Online article: Digging for the real Madrid

The GAUDI complex: on the trail of Barcelona's strangest buildings

You can see the genius of Gaudí’s facades for free but it’s worth paying for closer inspection: Sagrada Família daily: April–Sept 9am–8pm; Oct–March 9am–6pm; €8. Casa Milà daily 10am-8pm; €8. Casa Batlló daily 9am–8pm; €16. Parc Güell daily: March & Oct 10am–7pm; April & Sept 10am–8pm; May–Aug 10am–9pm; Nov–Feb 10am–6pm.

Read the Times Online article: Instant weekend: Barcelona

Prey Macarena: Easter in SEVILLE

The official Semana Santa programme of events is available from newstands; local newspapers also print timetables and route maps.

Read the Times Online article: Seville, the most flirtatious city in Spain

Surfing the coast of light: crossing the GIBRALTAR STRAITS from Tarifa to Tangier

Spin Out Surf Base (www.tarifaspinout.com) rent equipment for €25 per hour. FRS (www.frs.es) run fast ferries (35min) between Tarifa and Tangier up to seven times a day.

Read the Times Online article: Spain's secret beach

To be a PILGRIM: El Camino de Santiago

The camino francés stretches for 50km, beginning in Roncesvalles thirty miles northeast of Pamplona; allow 6–8 weeks. The albuergues are regularly spaced and accommodation is usually free or subject to a few euros donation, providing you have a credencial (available in advance from a pilgrim association or from Roncesvalles Monastery).

Read the Times Online article: My first avowed intent as a pilgrim to Santiago

A drop of the Bard's stuff: drinking SHERRY Spanish style, Jerez de la Frontera

Jerez de la Frontera lies some 85km south of Seville, with which it has regular bus connections. González Byass, c/Manuel María González, Jerez de la Frontera (www.gonzalezbyass.es) run regular tours.

Read the Times Online article: Around Andalucia

Hiking in the PYRENEES

Both parks are free but vehicular access to Aigüestortes is prohibited. See www.ordesa.net for up-to-date information on Ordesa’s routes, transport and accommodation.

Marvelling inside the MEZQUITA, Cordoba

Entry is €8, opening hours are typically convoluted; check www.infocordoba.com for up-to-date details.

Into the gypsy mystic: fired up on FLAMENCO

The Madrid tablaos charge between €25 and €35 per scrupulously professional performance. Seville’s Bienal de Flamenco is held from mid-September through to mid-October.

Over the meseta to MORELLA

Morella is served by buses from both the resort town of Vinaròs and the regional capital of Castellón de la Plana. The castle is open daily, and a double room in Hotel Cardenal Ram costs around €75.

Playing with fire at Las Fallas

Las Fallas is held annually March 12–19, although things start hotting up from the beginning of the month. Accommodation is at a premium and often booked out months in advance. The Museo Faller is on Plaza de Monteolivete near the riverbed park.