Why should I go? To see the parts of the Costa Brava that the tourist
hordes can’t reach. Picture aquamarine seas, sun-bleached rocks, cool
forests of fragrant pine and pocket-sized coves of sparkling sand,
accessible only by foot. Think of long lunches of llagostins, sardines a la
planxa and chilled local vi rosat (rosé) in tiny seaside villages, and
longer, even more chilled siestas on empty beaches far from the nearest
road. Consider emigrating as you stroll past yet another stunning villa with
a view to kill for, and imagine the joy of arriving dusty and footsore in a
honey-coloured town to find your luggage waiting in your room, the cava on
ice and the sun setting in the lee of the distant Pyrenees.
What should I do? Pack a water bottle, a swimsuit and a copy of As I
Walked Out One Midsummer Morning, then hit the road (or, more accurately,
the flower-fringed footpath). If you’re a novice, or simply can’t be
bothered with the logistics of a weekend hike, let Inntravel do the boring
stuff while you concentrate on rooting out the Costa Brava’s hidden jewels.
Up until now, the walking holiday specialists has offered only week-long
trips. Now, though, it has seen the light, offering mini versions of its
classic itineraries that can be accomplished over a long weekend.
Start in the seaside village of Llafranc, 40 minutes’ drive from Girona
airport, and grab a taster of the joys to come by strolling inland to the
market town of Palafrugell. Pump up your adrenaline with a swift café
cortado, then follow the dusty lane back to the coast, waved on by crowds of
scarlet poppies, pink dragon’s teeth, purple asters and mobs of butterfly
lavender. You’ll notice first the silence – broken by birdsong and the
humming of bees – then, as you descend through valleys of cork oak and pine,
the frustrated roar of the ocean as it lashes an untameable coast.
Don’t skip dessert tonight – you’ll need those carbs for tomorrow, a slightly
more challenging eight-mile wander along some of the world’s most beautiful
coastline. The hike is like a fairy tale: expect enchanted woods, smugglers’
coves, mysterious ruins and perhaps the odd mermaid as you walk on a
well-marked path from Llafranc to Begur, via the chic little beach at
Tamariu, where beautiful people in city shoes will envy your right to roam.
Lunch here could be a linen-tablecloth affair with fine wines or a rustic
picnic eaten on the rocks overlooking the bay and washed down with bottles
of ice-cold San Miguel.
From Tamariu, it’s all uphill to Begur, a deceptively quiet hilltop town
beloved of Barcelona’s party crowd – but forget the out-of-town nightclubs,
you’ll be asleep by eleven. For your final day, let your legs decide. On
offer is a five-mile foray through woods and cornfields to the pretty
medieval town of Pals or a two-mile amble to a slow lunch in the exquisitely
pretty cove of Sa Tuna, and if you take a cab back, nobody need know.
Where should I stay? In Llafranc, try the comfortable Hotel Llevant (00
34-972 300366, www.hotel-llevant.com)
or the Hotel Llafranch (972 300208, www.hllafranch.com),
former hang-out of Sophia Loren and Rock Hudson. Both are on the beach, with
sea-view rooms from £71 and £65 respectively, including breakfast. In Begur,
the gorgeous Hotel Rosa (972 623015, www.fondacaner.com)
has doubles from £47, B&B.
Where should I eat? Try Tragamar (00 34-972 615189; mains from £5),
right on the Playa del Canadell, just around the headland from Llafranc.
It’s cheap, with stupendous views and fish so fresh, it still looks
surprised. In Tamariu, six restaurants line the tiny bay – favourite with
the big-sunglasses set is El Palanqui (972 620044; mains from £7), but all
serve whatever got caught in the nets that morning. Otherwise, the
supermarket on the corner of Carrer de l’Equador sells all you need for a
picnic. In Begur, Fonda Caner (972 622391, www.fondacaner.com;
à la carte from £13) serves robust Catalan fare such as pigs’ trotters
stuffed with snails and fabulous home-cured anchovies; while the Sa Tuna
restaurant (972 622198; mains from £11) serves sardines a la planxa at
tables on the beach. In Pals, the three-course, £6 menu del dia at El Pedro
(972 636983, www.elpedropals.com)
is worth the walk for the roasted pigs’ cheeks and homemade crema catalana.
How do I get there? Ryanair (0871 246 0000, www.ryanair.com)
flies to Girona from 11 UK airports, as well as Dublin and Shannon.
Shuttledirect (00 34 902 334633, www.shuttledirect.com)
has taxi transfers to the coast and back for £27 each way. Inntravel (01653
617723, www.inntravel.co.uk) has
four-night breaks from £358pp, half-board, including transfers,
luggage-forwarding and walking maps, but not flights.
Chris Haslam travelled as a guest of Inntravel
This article inspired me to visit this area. My wife and I had just spent 2 days at a conference in Barcelona and so to extend the stay we booked 3 nights at the Hotel Rosa in Begur. The footpath between Llafranc and Bugur is every bit as magical as Chris describes, however, my big tip is to walk from Begur to Llafranc not the other way round. Firstly because the walk from the coast is the least impressive, and you get that over with first and secondly Begur is at the top of a hill - walking downhill is a lot easier. The Fonda Caner restaurant in Begur is part of the Hotel Rosa and the food is fantastic. Book a table. The first night we ate there Rosa, the manager, turned dozens of people away - this on a Tuesday night in September. We ate there every night and every mouthful was perfect - breakfasts there were good, too.
Gary Hardwick, Lytham, Lancs, UK