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Port de Soller fringes a perfectly formed natural harbour, encompassing 300
degrees with a narrow harbour entrance guarded by lighthouses on either
headland and affording a perfect marina location. As such, it’s the first
stop for yachts from Barcelona - money is coming to town.
Along the front, the Diablito lounge with it’s zebra-striped sofas is this
summer's fashionable bar. Café Pacific, just off the front, is another
ice-cool bar across the road from the throroughly revamped Hotel Aimia. But
this is not a raucous resort - there is only one nightclub.
Of the several restaurants along the waterfront, many are of the resort
variety. Randemar was very good, although I wished we'd had the chance to
try the highly recommended Es Canyis - it was shut both nights we were
there. For lunch, the must-eat place is the fish restaurant at El Faro, high
up by one of the lighthouses.
But the big news in town is that Port de Soller will be firmly put on the map
with the opening of Spain’s
first seven-star hotel in two years. The Dubai-based Jumeirah group,
which runs the iconic Burj al-Arab, is to run the hotel on the headland
overlooking the port. "Maybe we will be the Mallocan Santorini,” said a
friend living on the island.
The spurt of development has been partly prompted by the desire to update an
ageing resort infrastructure and freshen up for the next generation. The
revamp has been hugely aided by a tunnel blasted through the mountains last
year which irrevocably altered the character of Soller.
Instead of a tortuous road around the mountain, it is now a 40-minute drive
from Palma airport into the orange and olive grove valley of Soller and Port
de Soller. Not only that, the rerouting means that this summer, for the
first time, cars only have one-way access along the front in Port de Soller.
The restaurants and bars have taken advantage to extend their terraces and
decking towards beach.
The passaeo is again an enjoyable early evening pursuit, the waterfront
full of ambling couples, many on their first-holiday-with-the-baby. We took
a 20 minute stroll and only two cars and a bike passed us.
Freed from choking traffic, the age-old tram now trundles proudly in isolation
along the front, linking Port de Soller with Soller a mile inland, where two
new townhouse hotels have opened in the past year. From the port to the
railway station in Soller, it is a 15-minute journey. At Soller station, the
train from Palma pulls in, disgorging 200 passengers, mostly German and all
daytrippers from Palma.
It’s the end of the line, and the process of switching the engine around is
worth spending 30 minutes in the splendid and beautifully high windowed
station bar. There's even a permanent exhibition of Miro paintings and
Picasso ceramics off the lobby.
Agrotourism is still strong in these parts, the renovation of farm buildings
providing accommodation. The income has seen wine production resume in the
valley and the development of food routes – wine, olive oil, cheeses. We
drove through orchards and groves on the short drive along a winding coast
road to Deia, a village whose visitors have included the poet Robert Graves,
Richard Branson (he owned La Residencia) and Michael Douglas.
What Deia does have is a choice of several restaurants, some austere, some
with terraces affording great views down the valley. There are 10 places to
eat in a 100 metre stretch of the narrow road that runs through the village.
People tend to stay in hotels and eat in the well publicised restaurants,which are quite frankly,overrated and expensive.For an alternative go self catering with one of the local agents(kenyonstricklandassociates is reliable) and buy and cook local produce from the market at a fraction of the cost
christopher howard stow, bridlington, england
Valldemossa is a truly beautiful and atmospheric place. While there, buy a copy of George Sands "A Winter in Mallorca", then tell me it doesn't move you.
Stewart, Mold, North Wales
Hi we have been visiting the area for about 3 years now, it gets better every time. The views are incredible and the changes in the Port make a real difference. We stay in a lovely little house called Es Forn Vell (www.fornalutx.co.uk) and try to do very little other than relax and take in the views, with a drink in hand.. the views of the mountains in Fornalutx, and sunset at Puerto Soller, are our favourite 'must sees'. We also love the restaurant near Alaro that Rick Stein featured recently, its a real find.
Sue and Derek, Northampton
Sue Lawson, Northampton, Northamptonshire
I endorse all of the message from susan hodson, the whole soller valley is truely unspoilt, i cannot reccomend the place enough. Biniaraix has to be seen to be believed. I have stayed at su and Mike's place "casadebar" and can recommend it to anyone.
M Walker, birmingham, UK
We have been going to Port de Soller for over 10 years now, and the changes have NOT soiled any of the area, in fact it has improved , if you can improve on what is one of the most "tranquil spot in this island of calm", to quote from Santiago Rusinol book Majorca The island of Calm, the Esport hotel is wonderfull, also we stayed in a lovely apartment ,Ca'na Carolina about five times you can find it in the web page, sollernet.com. the hill walking is great all though the winter with plenty of restaurants open all year round, it is good new about the new 7 star hotel, the place were it is going to be built have been a bit of a saga for years with a half completed hotel "The Atalaya" The Watchtower, noughting to do with to do with Jehovah's witnesses . cant wait to go back over the new year again and we have booked our stay for the hill walking in the spring,
Alex and Carole
Fred A Graham, Edinburgh, Scotland
The small restaurant in Puerto Soller that we enjoy on a regular basis is Es Raco, overlooking the marina. Start with chipirones and follw with monkfish with tarragon sauce (to die for). The welcome from Damian and his French wife Chantal is always warm and welcoming.
Another 'must go to' restaurant for Sunday lunchtime is Sa Teulera, a mile up on the Pollensa road from the monumenta on the Soller by pass. At weekends they do the most delicious barbecued suckling pig - but you do have to order it or you will be disappointed, as it is the most popular restaurant in the area with the Mallorquins for Sunday lunch. Book your table for 2 pm if you want to enjoy the best local ambience.
Gentian, LIPHOOK, UK
We moved from Birminham to the tiny hamlet of Biniaraix, just between Soller and Fornalutx, 6 months ago. Just 15 mins walk from Soller and you are in another time. the mountain views of the Sierra Tramuntana are spectacular and some fantastic walking trails. We love the atmosphere of the Puerto and the great mix of the old working/ seaside harbour and new chic hotels and restaurants, and to be able to go 2km inland to the fabulous mountains makes the area a wonderful place to visit . We came on holiday 12 months ago and now own a small B&B!
susan hodson, Biniaraix, soller, Mallorca
Your hotel reviews missed out at least one gem - the 8 bedroom Finca Cas Sant just outside of Soller. www.cas-sant.com This is a well appointed and very peaceful setting. Our room stood on its own at the bottom of an orange grove.
Family owned and run, double rooms are from 167.5 euros per night +IVA
Ian Jeffcott, Mold, Flintshire
I leave in Mallorca and last time I stayed there I found the <a href="http://www.esplendidohotel.com">Esplendido Hotel</a> to be really nice!.
The place is facing the sea and now that the main port street is pedestrian they have a terrace in the bistro which faces the sea. Also, I think it's on Wednesday they have live music.
The port is really quiet and is a nice place to relax. Maybe to quiet to live there but worth a visit sure.
And if you go for a few days, do visit Deia and Valldemossa.
Oscar, Palma de Mallorca, Spain
We visited Majorca last year and were undecided whether to go to Cala San Vicente or Puerto Soller. We chose the former but did drive to Puerto Soller and were so relieved at the choice we had made. The harbour front at Puerto Soller was indeed choked with traffic so it is good that it will now be improved but the beach was narrow and scrappy and the sea was dirty with pollution from the , harbour, points which can't be readily addressed. Cala San Vincente in the NW had glorious crystal clear water and lovely coves- a much better upmarket choice we felt .
Marie Birch, Manchester, UK
Puerto Soller as I recall it in 1952 had as you say a natural harbour. The reason for this was that it wasa base for the Spanish Navy. Although there were no ships in port there was a checkpoint staffed by Spanish sailors which relieved us of our cameras until we left.
I always remember what a beuatiful harbour it was, and would love to visit it over 50 years later.
Joe Connell, Liverpool, UK
Go further down the coast from Deia, through Valdemossa and try Banyalbufar, where the main road is the village High street. The Mar i Vent hotel which used to be reckoned the best there looks a bit down at heel and we nicknamed it the "Non Event" on our last visit. Go down the narrow lane marked Platja and you will find Restaurant C'an Paco just off to your right. The sunday lunchtime paella attracts locals, expats and many more. Maria is funny, friendly and very helpful, as is her daughter Magdalena. Poor Paco himself is the one slaving over a hot stove out of sight in the kitchen. Further down the hill the three star Hotel Sa Coma run by the Tomas family has a loyal clientele, 80% of whom are repeat bookers, mostly unpackaged although the hotel does feature in the Classic Collection brochure.
The view out to sea from the balconies and the bar terrace is to die for, and the sunsets are often spectacular.
Jane Crawford-Baker, Larne, County Antrim, UK
Soller comin up big time. Gonna get a 7 star hotel !
frenchie, london,
We took the train from Palma to Soller and then the tram to Port Soller in November 2006. It was a wonderful day out. good weather, great scenery,a market on Saturday in Soller. The favorite day of our long weekend in Majorca. We were able to eat al fresco at luncdhtime overlooking the Port and bay. Had a great plate of mussels at the Mary y Sol, with lovely staff waiting on table.
Anne Ritchie, Chester, England