Tucked away between rippling Monmouthshire hills, the Bell at Skenfrith is one of those deceptive country pubs: all whitewashed simplicity on the outside, but a slick, chic restaurant-with-rooms once you are through the front door. A 17th-century former coaching inn, the Bell reopened after major renovation in 2001, with an extension, eight bedrooms and a new set of prices that sent much of its local clientele scuttling to the hills.

When I arrived on a wet Saturday afternoon, there was a fire blazing in the bar, and the fat leather sofas were taken up with contented customers reading the papers or chatting over drinks.

Upstairs, our attic suite was elegantly comfortable with plenty of hotel-style extras — fluffy bathrobes, swanky smellies, TV and DVD (with a comprehensive selection to choose from). The service was impeccable — an ironing board appeared within minutes, and extra teabags were left, as requested, when they came to turn down the beds.

Dinner was enjoyable if not stunning; supper plates bore beautifully arranged slices of local venison and lamb, or pan-fried seabass perched carefully on teaspoons of risotto. Local producers are listed on the wall, and breakfast the next morning — rich, thick slices of smoked salmon with scrambled egg, deliciously meaty sausages and fresh pancakes — was fantastic.

But in among the scrubbed wooden tables and chunky candlesticks, something was missing. Although the Bell makes the most of its rural location — tailor-made hunting, shooting and fishing weekends and a programme of circular walks from the pub — it doesn’t feel as if it belongs. At dinner our neighbours on other tables all sounded as if they came from West London, which was apt, as did the menu prices.

The Bell is a success story — booked up weeks in advance, filled with weekending urbanites having a country “experience”. Since that’s exactly what I was, I should have loved it, but all the style in the world can’t make up for a pub that’s lost its soul.

Bottom line: Annabelle Thorpe paid £145 for an attic suite, B&B.

Sampling the fare: Three-course dinner with wine, £80 for two.

Need to know: The Bell at Skenfrith (01600 750235, www.skenfrith.co.uk), Monmouthshire.

Room: 8 out of 10.
Food: 7 out of 10.
Service: 10 out of 10.

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