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Why should I go? For the Spanish Brighton - a city with some of the
best urban beaches in Europe and lots of sparky seaside nightlife, all
squashed beneath the serrated skyline of the Picos de Europa.
Santander has been popular with Spanish holidaymakers ever since Alfonso XIII
and his entourage chose to spend their summers among the tumble of turrets
and gables that make up the Magdalena Palace, a century ago. Yet foreigners
prefer the southern costas, so you’ll be hard-pressed to bump into a single
Brit.
Less than two hours’ flight from Stansted, the airport is so close to town,
you could almost walk in - but take a cab and save your shoe leather for
promenading down Paseo de Pereda, the boulevard that separates the coastal
strip from the historic quarter. The minute you get there, you’ll feel the
energy of the place.
What should I do? At weekends, Santanderinos make for the beaches
strung around the Magdalena peninsula. Choose between the big, sandy swathe
of El Sardinero and itsy-bitsy Bikini beach - the first in Spain to allow
daring two-piece swimwear.
Next, grab a free bike (available from several spots in town) and cycle from
the belle époque casino to Magdalena park, which has a little
zoo. Stop along the way at the Museum of Prehistory and Archeology, which is
stocked with anthropological booty from the nearby Cantabrian caves; or walk
beneath a flying whale (a 60-ton skeletal one) suspended on the ceiling at
the Maritime Museum. Check out the Goyas at the Fine Arts Museum, then
people-watch on the steps of the 13th-century cathedral as churchgoers
emerge and head for a few glasses of nonCommunion wine.
Evenings are for the movida - drinks, dinner and a wander between the
bars and clubs that cluster the port district. Plaza Cañadio, in the middle
of the old town, is where it all begins, with young Santanderinos necking calemocho
– an evil cocktail of red wine and cola.
In the small hours, it’s time to move on to El Rocambole (Calle Hernan Cortes
37), a jazz and blues joint, or El Dragon (Calle Tetuan), a club fitted out
like a medieval castle, where the entertainment includes drag shows and
quick-change artists.
Where do I stay? For kingly splendour, it has to be the Real (00 34-942
272550, www.hotelreal.es ; doubles
from £120), built by Alfonso XIII to house his court. The hotel’s old-world
elegance is now married with modern trimmings, but characterful features
remain - including the antique lift, complete with upholstered seat.
Hotel Bahia (942 205000, www.gruposardinero.com
; doubles from £102) has huge views and a good restaurant that serves dinner
ridiculously early for Santander - from 8pm. Simpler, and hard to miss,
thanks to its violent-blue facade, is the three-star Central (942 222400, www.elcentral.com
), which offers functional rooms in the centre of the old town; from £60.
Where do I eat? At lunchtime, try a slice of manic market life in the
covered Mercado del Este, where La Casa del Indiano serves succulent skewers
of local beef on a bed of peppers, or grilled monkfish, for about £15 a pop.
For dessert, it’s just a stroll along the street to the deco-style Cafe de
Pombo (Calle Hernan Cortes 21), a great place to sample Spanish cakes: don’t
miss the spongy, buttery sobaos pasiegos.
El Puerto (Calle Hernan Cortes 63; 942 213001) is one of the oldest seafood
restaurants in the Barrio Pesquero fishing quarter: it claims to have served
five Nobel laureates on the same night, but bigger draws are the
prizewinning platters of percebes (lightly steamed barnacles) and salpicon
de bogavante (lobster cocktail). Expect to pay £30£35pp.
Or take your pick from the tapas on offer in the bodegas that are dotted
around the port: rabas (squid rings) and fried chorizo at Bodega
Mazon (Calle Hernan Cortes 57), or bocartes rebozados (breaded
whitebait) and a nifty glass of Rioja at Bodega Cigaleña (Calle Daoiz y
Velarde 19), which doubles as a wine museum.
How do I get there? Ryanair (www.ryanair.com
) flies to Santander from Stansted and Dublin. There are frequent buses from
the airport into the town centre; a taxi costs £12.
For a relatively inexpensive gourmet treat try the "tasting menu" for lunch at the superb Cupula Restaurant which is in the Silken Rio Hotel overlooking Sardinero Beach. A beautiful setting with great views and the 6-course menu only costs 42 euros.
Ken Baldwin, castillo, spain
Unforgivable to miss a serene stroll from the ferry wharf along Puertochico marina,Reina Victoria street up to Faro de Cabo Mayor -Lighthouse- perched on top of impressive cliffs. Enjoy as you walk,superb views of the harbour,snow-covered mountains at the back and the deep blue sea under your feet.
P. Tamayo, SANTANDER, Spain
The Barrio Pesquero is also home to a myriad of cheap spit and sawdust restaurants, where the locals go, because you get the best and freshest seafood around at knock down prices
paul murphy, mold, wales
If possible, take a boat to the small villages called Somo or Pedreña and ejoy having some fried fresh fish with the city and its bay opposite you. Worth doing!!
RUFINO, SANTANDER, ESPAÑA
You forgot to mention that there is also a twice-weekly ferry from Plymouth to Santander, taking 18-20 hours
Andrew Clark, Portsmouth,