Jason Atherton, one of London's leading chefs, is peering at a porterhouse
steak in the legendary New York butcher Lobel's. “It's almost like wagyu,
isn't it?” he says, gazing at the marbling, turning it over and over, and
marvelling at the clean cut.
Gordon Ramsay's golden boy has come to Manhattan to research dishes for his
new restaurant and I've joined him for the ride. What better way to catch up
with the city's culinary goings-on than with a Michelin-starred chef?
Maze Grill, next to Ramsay's flagship Maze restaurant on Grosvenor Square in
Central London, is based on a classic New York grill restaurant. We are
talking steak - lots of it, served every which way, with three different
kinds of fries (from duck fat to garlic), and preferably washed down with a
cocktail in true Manhattan style. So we had bars to check out, too, right?
At Lobel's, the conversation turns to grass-fed versus corn-fed. All ten of
the white-aproned butchers are getting involved now, even old Stanley Lobel.
Atherton snaps up Meat, one of Lobel's three books published on the subject.
I wonder which New York steakhouse Lobel prefers? “Peter Luger - it's the
best,” he replies.
We've both been to Peter Luger, in Brooklyn, and while the steaks are
undoubtedly good, there's too much testosterone in the room (in the diners,
not the steak) to strike a chord with Atherton. He is looking for something
a tad more chic.
Well, we've come to the right place. Steakhouses are the fastest-growing
restaurant in New York. Ten years ago there were barely 20 steakhouses in
the city; now there are more than 90. Steak is big business, and it's the
new generation of steakhouses, among them Craftstreak, Dylan Prime and STK,
attracting women that have spurred the revival.
But Atherton wants Maze Grill to have staying power, so our first stop is
Gramercy Tavern (42 East 20th Street, 001 212 477 0777). This is more a
modern American restaurant than a steakhouse, but it has been at the top of
its game for years.
The Gramercy's founder, Danny Meyer, puts his staff first and the customer
second - a novel approach in service-obsessed America. Meyer must be doing
something right, however - he has seven restaurants in the city that all
score consistently great reviews.
The food scores highly with Atherton, too, but he is particularly impressed by
the staff. “They are so knowledgeable, and they made everyone feel so
special - that gives me inspiration,” he says.
We spend the rest of the afternoon working up an appetite for dinner, walking
the streets and avenues of Manhattan checking out cheese shops and more
butcher's shops, including Florence, off West 4th Avenue, which prompts a
quick phone call back to London. “Find me a big old-fashioned set of
scales,” Atherton tells his interior designer.
To stimulate our gastric juices, we head to our first bar, Pegu Club (77 West
Houston Street, 001 212 473 7348). The owner, Audrey Saunders, is behind a
gin revival in the city. She opened Pegu Club two and half years ago, after
a run at Bemelmans Bar in the Carlyle Hotel.
Saunders's belief that you should treat a bar very much like a kitchen appeals
to Atherton, who admires her home-made tinctures, from cardamom to black
pepper, lined up behind the bar and used to “scent” a cocktail. We drink
perfect sidecars and daiquiris and leave armed with recommendations of more
bars to try, such as B Flat, Little Branch, Death & Co, and PDT.
I'd suggest a visit to Quality Meats on West 58th Street. Their rack of lamb was the best I've had anywhere. Also the lump meat crab cakes and inventive sides like the roasted tomatoes with grilled zucchini.
Gary Johnson, NEW YORK , USA
Best steak I ever had was at an all night diner in Hoboken, NJ about 8 years ago. Perfectly chargrilled, crispy on the outside, rare and juicy on the inside, all for $5.99 at the time. Plus all the A 1 you could douse on it. My friend who was a true carnivore,and I made many late night visits there.
Claudia, Atlanta, USA
I'll second Keens. Fantastic steaks - a porterhouse to die for.
Graham, Sussex, UK
Best steak and chips ever was at Montparnasse, E 51st Street, New York.Found it online at Top Table. Made the booking here and we were not disappointed. Shall book again next time. Hope it is soon.
Janet Babb, Warwick, Warks.
NYC has so many steakhouses now that there's a shortage of dry-aged prime beef. Steakhouses are extremely profitable. No need for expensive chefs or any other pricey ingredients. Just the proper grills and meat; the rest is timing. Diners order copious amounts of expensive and profitable red wines.
August West, Lutz, FL, USA
New York City for steak? What a stupid idea. Go to the Midwest and stop at any small town bar or pub and have the prime rib on Friday or Saturday night. Chicago is a start but the smaller the town and the further into cattle county the better. More microbreweries too. Grain fed is best.
David, Lincoln Nebraska, United States
I will suggest Keens Chophouse on 36th street in Manhattan....excellent steaks, cool atmosphere....
Clay , New York, NY
best steak I've had in manhattan is Wolfgangs on Park ave- amazing. Luger's has the name and while it was really good it just wasn't as good as we had expected nor did it justify the trip in Brooklyn, the bad service and the awful decor.
Jonathan, NY,