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The bar at the Globe Inn, which serves Norfolk Wherry ale and has seasonal specials on blackboards

The hotel overlooks a Georgian square in the pretty coastal town of Wells-next-the-sea
First impressions: The check-in process was probably the fastest I’ve encountered, I signed a visitor’s book beneath the names of five others who’d checked in that evening and was shown my room by the receptionist-cum-barmen-cum-waiter. We’d called ahead to say we would miss the 9pm deadline for food and were told that we could pre-order. Within ten minute’s of arriving we were tucking into pints of Norfolk Wherry ale and a pint of prawns with herby mayonnaise and freshly baked bread.
Behind the cosy front room is a large dining room, vacuous the night we were there with just three other tables of diners, but much busier over the weekend. The colour scheme throughout is sludgey and modern but a bit dark on dull cloudy days. The rest of the décor was great – relaxed and rural – chunky furniture, photographs of nearby beaches and natural wooden floors with under-floor heating. I also liked the staff uniforms – navy polo shirts with the name of the pub on the back.
Why it’s special: Most of the hotels and restaurants in Wells-next-the-Sea have front doors opening onto narrow lanes, but The Globe Inn has a more peaceful location, tucked behind the main street overlooking a grassy Georgian Square. I’ve no doubt that over the bustling summer months even this gets busy but on the damp March evening when I arrived it was quiet, and on seeing the warm glow from the Globe and mumble of punters I was like a moth to a flame.
Hitting the sack: The pub has been sensitively renovated by the Holkam Estate, which owns the grand country house down the road and the acclaimed Victoria restaurant and hotel, as well as a holiday parks, farms shops and extensive land. Original features such as fireplaces have been left and my room had huge sash windows and a sloping bathroom floor.
The seven rooms have kettles with tea and coffee, bespoke toiletries (some made locally), televisions, and supposedly bathrobes, although mine didn’t have any. My room was a pleasant muted duck egg blue with a white metal bed and simple furniture, my only complaint would be the door lock, which was really stiff and took some fiddling to work.
Sampling the food: The menu covers ever hunger, from light salads and sandwiches to substantial pies. There’s tons of local produce on the menu and the fact that my green tea was served with milk on the side suggests that the hotel’s ethos – to serve seasonal and local food - is less an effort to woo the cosmopolitan, carbon guilt-ridden townies, and more common sense. You can pick at starters like chipolatas with mustard or deep fried whitebait with paprika mayonnaise, then follow it with a baby spinach, goat’s cheese and pine nut salad or something more substantial. The Holkam venison and Branthill ale pie is excellent and comes with a huge pile of steaming chips and veg, or there’s dishes such as smoked haddock risotto with a poached egg or Globe Inn fishcakes, also with a poached egg. While we’re on the subject of these, they are something of a speciality – perfectly round, with an even white on all sides and gooey sumptous yolk.
They’re all over the breakfast menu too (8-10am) – served with the excellent smoked haddock, or as eggs Benedict (the Globe bacon sandwich sounds legendary, but with only two rashers, was a bit of a let-down). The breakfast is included in the room rate and dinner costs around £4 for nibbles and £9 for a main course.
In addition to the Norfolk Wherry are Adnams ales and bitters and a selection of Adnams wines – ten whites, nine reds and two pinks, priced from £11.50. A blackboard offering daily specials also offered five of each colour by the glass, and both the Cotes du Rhone Syrah and the Burgundy Petit Chablis were excellent.
Added attractions: Relaxation here comes in the form of a pint in the bar, although I felt a lounge with sofas for an afternoon cupper would have been nice. As for exercise, with Holkam Beach and lake and woodland walks on Holkam Estate nearby, you really don’t need a gym. There’s plenty of info at the hotel about walking routes, hiring bikes, going horse riding and bird watching.
Access all areas: All of the bedrooms are on the first floor and there’s no lift, so the hotel is not suitable for guests in a wheelchair, but there is wheelchair access to the bar, restaurant, patio and toilets.
What we think: Welcoming and wholesome describes the food, ambience and staff of this lovely Norfolk inn.
Bottom line: Rooms cost from £65 low season and £110 in high season. Weekend stays must be booked for both a Friday and Saturday night and cost £220. The Holkham room is the nicest one and overlooks the Georgian square, but costs £20 extra per night. All rates include breakfast.
Contact: The Globe Inn, The Green, Wells-next-the-Sea, Norfolk, NR23 1RG; tel. 01328 711008; www.globeatwells.co.uk; info@globeatwells.co.uk
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