First impressions: Ickworth is one of three National Trust properties
that is used as a hotel (the others are Cliveden in Berkshire and The
Causeway Hotel in County Antrim). While furnishings are not original, the
exterior, and features such as the fireplaces and coving in the Grade II
listed building, have been lovingly preserved.
The manicured gardens and surrounding parkland, designed by landscape
architect Capability Brown, make a for a grand entrance, but the showstopper
is the 18th century Rotunde, which was designed by Italian architects
Francis Sandy and Mario Asprucci the Younger. It was built for the 4th Earl
of Bristol, who took his inspiration by classical Rome, most notably
displayed by a stunning collar of friezes based on Homer’s Iliad and
Odyssey. Hotel guests who collect an entry card from the hotel reception can
tour the Rotunde for free, as well as visit the National Trust shop and café
in the West Wing.
Finding the hotel is easy – it is well signposted from Bury St Edmunds, four
miles away, and is about two hours from London by train and a bit less by
car.
Why it’s special: The hotel has occupied the East Wing of
Ickworth House since 2002, which was once the home of generations of the
Hervey family. The family brought the house notoriety with stories of gun
running, drug addiction and jewellery theft; many of these stories
documented in newspaper clippings that hang in frames on the first floor.
Since being handed over to the National Trust, Ickworth has shaken off its
tumultuous history and is now laidback and welcoming. Check-in is at a stark
retro desk in the hall and staff are dressed casually. This relaxed approach
is probably due to the hotel’s family friendly credentials. Wellies of all
sizes fill the hallway, there’s a shed full of bikes, ponies in the stables,
tennis court, swimming pool, trampoline and kids’ clubs, among other
facilities.
Despite this family focus – we were one of only two couples staying at the
hotel who didn’t have children – the hotel also makes a great getaway for
grown ups – horse riding, tennis and cycling are just as entertaining for
adults, and additions such as an adults-only restaurant mean that you’re not
constantly surrounded by kids.
The décor is not what you’d expect from a property of this age. The huge
pieces of striking modern art and retro furniture from the 1950s, 60s and
70s won’t be to everyone’s taste but I thought the overhaul effect was
quirky and worked well with the original features – high ceilings, mirrored
window shutters and huge fireplaces.
Hitting the sack: The 27 rooms, named after people who feature in
Ickworth’s history include six in modern décor but ours, Sandy (named after
Ickworth’s architect), on the second floor was traditional. It had polished
antique furniture, velvet-covered chairs, a neat crystal chandelier, and
soft velvet bedspread. The bathroom was almost the same size as the bedroom
with a freestanding bath and shower that I never managed to get consistently
hot. The toiletries were unmemorable but the bathroom was spotlessly clean
and the bath filled quickly. The room had baby listening facilities, small
television with DVD player and gorgeous views over the front of the hotel.
In the room was a map of various walks and bicycle rides in the grounds,
details of the house opening times, and some useful pointers on the opening
times of the two restaurants (plus the meal times in the kids’ clubs).
Sampling the food: Frederick’s is the child-free restaurant and is
decked in sultry purple with candlelit ambience, a stark contrast to the
Conservatory, with its elegant arched windows overlooking the garden, and
rich greenery against a white wall. At Frederick’s three courses without
wine costs £37.50. Our choices of Suffolk black bacon with monkfish cheek
and slow cooked pigeon with ceps, dandelion leaf and sage to start were
winners – fresh ingredients in good combinations. The main courses – venison
loin with broad beans, venison sausage and chocolate foam, and wild seabass
poached in vanilla oil were equally tasty and in portions that didn’t leave
you too full – so there was plenty of room for a caramelised apple tart and
hot praline hazelnut ravioli, the latter of which was melt-in-the-mouth
delicious.
We were advised to book for Sunday lunch in the Conservatory the following
day, which was a more hearty affair, with most diners opting for roast beef
and all the trimmings, but a lighter dish – Dover sole with nettle risotto
was fresh and flavoursome. Two courses costs £19.95 and three courses
£26.95. Only the wine was disappointing – choices by the glass were limited
to just Pinot Grigio or Chardonnay for white (they were out of the Chateau
les Miaudoux Bergerac), but order by the bottle and there are over 100 to
choose from.
Breakfast in the Conservatory, served 7.30am-10am, offered juices, yoghurts,
fresh Bircher muesli, cereals, pastries, breads and limited fresh fruit (an
apple and orange-rich fruit salad and some melon), as well as hot food
including some of the tastiest pork and leek sausages I’ve tried, which are
sourced from a nearby farm. We ordered an excellent plate of kippers but
were disappointed by the lukewarm porridge and underdone, sloppy poached
eggs.
Added attractions: The afore-mentioned activities means there’s plenty
to fill a weekend, or even a week, with swimming, riding, cycling, football,
board games, computer games, walking and tennis among the options. There’s
also a spa in the basement, which has four treatments rooms and offers
facials, massages, scrubs, manicures, pedicures, reflexology, and also
treatments catered to men and pregnant women. In addition, there are regular
events at the National Trust property, such as the hanging basket workshop
that was going on the weekend I was there. The hotel also offer 11
apartments elsewhere on the estate, which have kitchens and up to two
bedrooms.
Access all areas: Steps to the hotel door mean it cannot be accessed by
guests in a wheelchair (the National Trust wing is wheelchair accessible
though).
The bottom line: Rooms start from £165 per night including VAT and
breakfast, but are higher at peak periods.
What we think: With so many activities on offer, Ickworth offers a
self-contained weekend break for families and grown-ups in sumptuous
surroundings.
Contact The Ickworth Hotel and Apartments, Horringer, Bury St. Edmunds,
Suffolk, IP29 5QE, tel. 01284 735350;info@ickworthhotel.co.uk; www.ickworthhotel.co.uk
