First impressions: very nautical. Past huge anchors either side of the main door, you step down into a cosy bar. A wood-burning stove makes it especially welcoming.

Why it’s special: unpretentious, cheerful staff (local and South African) in an out-of-the-way location. Hard to believe that, in medieval times, Dunwich was the busiest of the East Coast ports with more than 3,000 inhabitants.

Hitting the sack: ask for an en-suite room at the front overlooking the marsh and the sea. Watch egrets and harriers from bed.

Sampling the fare: try the smoked haddock in cheese sauce and the witch sole (caught off the East Anglian coast: similar to lemon sole). Three courses, plus wine, for two about £40.

Star quality: Angus Deayton, Pauline Quirk.

Access all areas: no wheelchair access.

What we think: if you like walking and bird watching, this is for you.

Bottom line: B&B doubles from £68.

Need to know: The Ship Inn (01728 648219), Dunwich, Saxmundham, Suffolk.

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