The approach to the Black Lion, if coming from the south through the town of
Long Melford, is most impressive.
A mile long (ah, Long Melford) and wide thoroughfare with half-timbered and
Regency buildings, interspersed with numerous antique shops and galleries
(with a couple of oddities like a hat hire shop and one selling lingerie
intriguingly called Whippers, or it could have been Whispers), which leads
to a vast green with the elegant turreted Elizabethan brick Melford Hall
overlooking it on one side. Crowning it, at the top end, one of the finest
looking churches in all of England. And just before the top, where the road
takes a right angled bend is the solid Georgian building of the Black Lion.
“Very Jane Austeny,” remarked Research Assistant approvingly.
An unhurried reception (if the approach had been less appealing I would have
written ‘slow’) and we were shown to the Chablis Room. All ten en-suites are
named after wines, a particular interest of the owner Craig Jarvis whose
presence is reinforced with numerous photos of himself and his family in the
public areas.
“Family photos make guests feel at home,” the RA informed me.
Our room was above the bar so there was some noise and it was the first as you
come up the stairs so all other guests walk past it, but it was no big deal
as it wasn’t busy when we stayed.
Each room is different and the Chablis had a huge four poster bed with
flamboyant drapes; other furniture included a chaise-longue, a writing desk
in front of the window and a free standing wardrobe with numerous
compartments that could be locked with tasseled keys. The effect, according
to the RA, was “Edwardian Empire”.
Faint panic as the receptionist told us that they stopped serving food at 2pm
and it was 12 minutes past. But she went into the kitchen and reported back
that if we cared to order from the Ciabetta menu, that would be fine.
Lahsan, a quiet-spoken and charming Moroccan, poured my first pint of Adnams
Broadside (£3.25) and the RA was watered with an Italian Pinot Grigio (£4.25
a glass or £16.95 a bottle).
It was November so the two main attractions of Long Melford, Melford Hall (National
Trust, 01787-379228) and Kentwell
Hall (01787-310207) were closed but there was enough daylight after
lunch to take the dogs for a walk (the Black Lion welcomes pets and does not
charge extra for them).
We walked down a long lime-lined drive, which led to the gates of Kentwell.
The trees were festooned with small explosions of mistletoe high up in the
bare branches. We came back through fields of Longhorn cattle munching
methodically. Enough light remained for Holy Trinity church. The whole
edifice is a work of art, superb proportions with extraordinary flushwork (a
form of decoration using flints) with a wonderful chancel of high arches,
wonderfully light, built with the proceeds from Britain’s Golden Fleece –
wool. The church has one of the country’s finest collections of stained
glass, some of it going back to when it was built in the 15th century. Be
sure to see the tiny round window which depicts a trio of hares, their heads
facing inwards and their bodies like spokes to a wheel. There are only three
ears but the clever arrangement makes it look like each has its full
compliment; it represents the Holy Trinity.
The Black Lion was voted by the readers of the East Anglian Times Best
Restaurant in Suffolk 2006, and head chef Annette can be justifiably proud
of that accolade. Needless to say our evening meal was very good.
From the daily specials menu, I had mussels in white wine cream sauce (£7.25)
– sensuously smooth and suggestively delicious. The RA had curried pumpkin
soup (£5.25) laced with coconut milk and pronounced “lovely, with subtle
spicey flavours.” The curry powder had been made by Indian sous-chef Matt
Banjerman.
