The hotel: Tucked away behind the last house in a row of 1740s cottages in Buckler's Hard. Now that may sound like a boxer's boast, but it's actually the name of a historic maritime village on the fringe of the New Forest. It's a delightful place where two rows of red-brick cottages stretch to an indent in the riverbank, the only remains of the dockyard where dozens of fighting ships for Admiral Nelson's navy were built.

The hotel lounge has a (thankfully subtle) nautical theme, with lovely views over the riverbank and marina, and across to gently folding wooded hills. The grand fireplace, latticed windows and large glass doors opening out onto a lawn make it ideal for novel-reading or brandy-nipping at any time of the year.

Seventeen of the rooms are in a modern annex. There's nothing wrong with them per se, but you're far better off going for one of the six historic and quirky rooms in the original Master Builder's House. Try number 21, with its splendid views and a den-like sunken lounge area.

The restaurant is outstanding, thanks in part to the delicious local produce used by the chef, Denis Rhoden. I had the ham and chicken liver terrine with pear chutney, followed by a magnificent lemon sole with a prawn bisque, and finally ground to a rotund halt over a chestnut parfait with fromage blanc sorbet. The presentation is superb, as are the sumptuous breakfasts and, the black pudding is, without doubt, the best I've ever eaten.

Assuming I can squeeze out of the front door, where next? Your doorstep is part of a superquaint row of cottages that slope to the waterfront, facing each other over a 30-yard-wide bevel of grass. No pavement, no tarmac, just grass, gravel and the odd resting fowl.

The modest Maritime Museum at the top end (01590 616203, 11am-4pm until Easter, admission £5) is a touch on the homely side, but neatly illustrates the history of the dockyard, right from the first ship built in 1745. Several of the cottages are preserved with period furnishings - just try entering the evocative little chapel without hearing the eerie echoes of 'For those in peril on the sea....'

Several vessels built in the yard fought at Trafalgar, and some of the Royal Navy's great names were christened here, including HMS Illustrious, HMS Vigilant and HMS Repulse, although it seems an unsurprising coincidence that HMS Experiment - the ship and the name sank without trace.

Okay, enough boats already. How about a stroll? It's a pleasant 45 minutes along the river to Beaulieu village, where you'll find the ruined abbey, the Palace House (home to Lord Montagu) and the National Motor Museum (10am-5pm; £13.50 for admission to all three). There's also an ageing green monorail that creeps around the site like a giant Meccano slug.

I want more nature: not a problem, you're in the New Forest. Once the personal hunting ground of William the Conqueror, the forest is as famous for its many ponies, which enjoy right of way throughout, as it is for the woodlands - actually mostly open heathland. It's perfect for picnics, walking and riding, and if you have time, you can wander around the picturesque villages of Brockenhurst and Lyndhurst, as well as the jumbled fishing port of Lymington - I'd recommend the Kings Head (01590 672709) for an excellent pub lunch.

Who should go? Romantic types who wouldn't say no to a spot of fine food in peaceful surroundings.

Who shouldn't? Frantic types who simply must have a mobile signal.

The Master Builder's House Hotel: 0845 773 7373, www.bestwestern.co.uk; doubles from £94 a night, including dinner and breakfast, from Sunday to Thursday, or from, £148, B&B on Friday and Saturday. Add £50 per room to upgrade to one of the historic rooms in the old house

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