The Welsh aren’t exactly renowned for their five-star hotels. In fact, until
recently there was just one recognised by the tourist board: the Castell
Deudraeth at Portmeirion in North Wales. Now there are two, as the Quay has
just been awarded the top accolade.
A one-carriage train took me from Llandudno on the north Wales coast past
fields of delicious spring lamb to the village of Deganwy. On arrival, I
face a rather bland, wuppie (Welsh upwardly mobile) housing estate jammed
with four-wheel drives full of golf clubs and riding tack. Inside this, by
the new marina, is The Quay.
The outlook is perfect. Across the water is Conwy, with its spectacular castle
on the left and the Conwy marina on the right. Nearby mountains act as a
backdrop.
Entering the hotel, I am greeted by a vast hall of polished stone and staff
jumping to attention. I have been upgraded and am grateful that a balcony
and chairs allows me to enjoy the view. The room is big and comfortable –
big bed, big bathroom – and the flatscreen is one of those flash multimedia
systems with 5,000 tracks, dozens of films and a keyboard for free internet.
Downstairs, I enter a bar off the lobby whose decor is in need of some
fireworks. A sort of beigeness hangs over the hotel, despite clientele that
includes the Cheshire set, Man U footballers, Jools Holland and the mighty
Status Quo. No doubt Wags take advantage of the Elemis spa’s yummy-mummy
treatments and heated slab of marble for massages.
Upstairs, the restaurant has an Art Deco feel, with a baby grand tinkling on
weekends and, again, that view in the dining room.
It is rare to find a menu on which I want to eat everything – three courses
for about £30. Rosemary and parmesan bread was tasty as was the amuse
bouche of scallop (perfectly done) with a citrus dressing. A chicken terrine
followed that didn’t create any sparks, but the trio of Welsh lamb with
creamed cabbage was good, if a tad overdone.
A half-bottle of Château-neuf-du-Pape, Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe 1999 (£23)
was a spicy, warm contrast to the lamb and the finale of Welsh cheeses,
including the fabulous creamy blue Perl Las. (If you’re very brave, you can
try the Welsh wine.)
I liked The Quay – it is comfortable, the service and food are fine, and you
can star-spot fellow guests. The only thing lacking is a bit of oomph.
Bottom line: Kieran Falconer paid £105 for a single. Doubles from
£175. Breakfast £11-£13.
Sampling the fare: Decent food, attentive waiting.
What we think: A cut above anything on the coast.
Worst thing: A bit anonymous.
Need to know: The Quay (01492 564 100, www.quayhotel.com),
Deganwy, Conwy, North Wales LL31 9DJ.
Access all areas: Yes, 20 wheelchair-accessible rooms.
Room: 8 out of 10.
Food: 7 out of 10.
Service: 8 out of 10.
I visited the Quay hotel with my wife as an anniversary treat to escape our busy jobs. The Quay's success for us was not just the fantastic food, wine and service, but more importantly the effortless way everything and everyone seemed to make you feel totally relaxed. It is exactly its anonimity that for us made it such a haven, It does not try to push its wow factor with a capital W rather lets it creep up on you. We will definitely be returning to a hotel we see as a sanctuary in a million mile an hour world.
Mike Moore, Nuneaton, UK