Sandwiched between Llangollen and Snowdonia, first impressions are good as you pull into pull into the gravel drive of this elegant house. The elegance continues inside, with a tasteful mix of old and new decor and all the trimmings helping it to retain its Georgian charm, and an authentically creaky staircase taking you to your room.

Bryan and Susan Webb ran Hilaire Restaurant in South Kensington, London before forging ahead with yet another 'restaurant with rooms' in Wales. This moniker reveals that they are keen to emphasise the eating side, and the restaurant doesn't disappoint. A fine dining experience, the room is reminiscent of a ballroom, with large conservatory-style windows and old-stylish curtains.

At £43.50, the 3-course dinner represents excellent value. Inventive hors d'œuvres and an extensive wine list complement the succulent starters and mains. The locally reared and caught ingredients are knocked into hearty but haute shape by Bryan and his team - for mains the John Dory was perfectly cooked and the duck with cider, apple and potato cake was equally impressive.

The rest of the hotel complements the eaterie perfectly.Two very smart, adjoining large lounges, with an open fire and super-comfy sofas welcome weary travellers. A popular destination for weddings, one lounge was occupied by newlyweds when we were taking coffee after our meal while the rest of their party drank on in the restaurant.

The twelve bedrooms are cosy and tastefully decorated. Room 9 (£140 a night) is described as a small double with shower, but we found it to be pretty substantial compared to pokey '5-star' city hotels. All mod cons include a stereo and flat-screen DVD TV, with a small DVD library available. And the bright bathroom benefits from a skylight and very large shower.

The breakfast menu is substantial - my full Welsh was perfectly prepared, with top quality local sausages and that strange but healthy Welsh delicacy, lavabread (a seaweed dish devoid of bread).

Be sure to take a bracing stroll in the delightful grounds that emphasise the air of understated grandeur, complete with fish pond and privet hedges and views across to the Berwent mountain range.

Online: Reviews on tripadvisor.co.uk are generally excellent giving the hotel an average rating of 4.5 stars.

Bottom line: Doubles from £110, suite £230; dinner, bed & breakfast from £95 per person

Best thing: The restaurant

Worst thing: Nothing - if we are splitting hairs, the £2.50 charge for tea in the room that wasn't mentioned when we were offered it on arrival

Access all areas: None, all rooms upstairs

Need to know: Tyddyn Llan, Llandrillo, nr Corwen, Denbighshire, North Wales, LL21 0ST. Telephone 01490 440264. www.tyddynllan.co.uk

Food: 9 out of 10

Service: 8 out of 10

Room: 9 out of 10

Value: 9 out of 10

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