It's an impressive drive to Anglesey from the mainland, skirting the mountains
of northwest Wales or via the A55 along the north coast.
Beaumaris, facing across the Menai Straits, benefits from views towards the
ominous peaks of Snowdonia that seem to plunge straight into the sea.
The Bulls Head is one street back from the town's windswept seafront and a
stone's throw from its dramatic moated castle.
There's a small car park at the rear, through a medieval arched gateway that
used to welcome the horse-drawn carriage to this former coaching house. The
inn dates back to 1471 and was a famous staging post en route to Ireland.
The hotel's prominence on the way to the Emerald Isle meant that it saw its
fair share of famous guests, including Dr Samuel Johnson and Charles
Dickens. The rooms are named after Dickens characters. We stayed in Mr
Stiggins, recently refurbished with a bathroom nearly as large as the
sizable bedroom. His and her sinks, a walk in shower and a huge
free-standing bath crown it all off.
It being an old, if modernised, affair, meant that there was no air
conditioning, and a quick call to the extremely helpful reception staff led
to instructions on using the mammoth metal radiator. The room was far too
hot on arrival, but an old fashioned knob and opening windows was adequate
temperature control. The bed was comfortable enough, but the bathroom was
the undoubted highlight.
We were disappointed to find that during our visit, on a Sunday, the gourmet
Loft restaurant was closed. The bigger, brighter and substantially cheaper
Grill brasserie benefited from its loftier sister's reasonable wine list,
but, despite it seeming to be a hit with the locals, we found the food
disappointing - my steak, by far the most expensive thing on the menu, was
bland.
Judging by the breakast in the Loft the restaurant should be far better. My
kippers were excellent and the full English non-greasy - and they served the
best freshly squeezed orange juice I've had in Wales.
Downstairs, the bar is luxurious but historic, a Victorian pub-styled affair
with a roaring fire, ancient wooden beams and antique furniture. The
paintings and curiosities hanging around the walls increased the sense of
history - add to that the authentically creaky stairs up to the rooms and
you really do feel like you are stepping into a Dickens novel.
Online: Reviews on
tripadvisor.co.uk good, the average rating is 3.5 stars. The food is
marked lowest at 3.5, though not many of the reviewers tried the Loft
restaurant
Bottom line: Doubles B&B from £100, General Mytton Suite £150
Best thing: The Mr Stiggins bathroom
Worst thing: Brasserie disappoints
Access all areas: None, all rooms upstairs
Need to know: Ye Olde Bulls Head Inn, Castle street, Beaumaris,
Anglesey, LL58 8AP. Telephone 01248 810329; www.bullsheadinn.co.uk
Food: 7 out of 10
Service: 9 out of 10
Room: 9 out of 10
Value: 8 out of 10
