The hotel: location, location, location — it certainly adds a big helping of wow factor to Michael and Wendy Vaughan’s very special North Wales hide-away. Not that the full splendour of the Old Rectory’s position overlooking the Conwy estuary hit me on arrival, because I turned up on a murky night when nothing more dramatic than rainy flowerbeds showed up in the headlights. My beams also picked up the figure of Michael, hurrying out to welcome me and trundle my case indoors. How many hotel owners trouble themselves to offer that kind of personal greeting — the little touch that means so much? The tone of the Old Rec- tory is one of civilised “at homeness” — if your home features polished panelling, old oil paintings, vast Victorian prints and shelves of fine porcelain. Michael is very much front-of-house, while Wendy stays behind the scenes tending her magic porridge pots.

“Come down to the drawing room at 7.30 for an aperitif and some canapés,” suggested Michael at my bedroom door. For a tired traveller, it sounded like the best idea in the world. Indeed, Michael proved the most sensitive of hosts, appearing by osmosis when I felt like a chat, disappearing whenever I wanted to “do a Garbo”.

In the morning, drawing my bedroom curtains and looking out on a crisp sunny morning, I saw what all the location fuss was about. Beautiful terraced gardens sloped down towards the wide Conwy estuary, with the sea-going river a sinuous curve of silver between gleaming mud banks. The towers of Edward I’s Conwy Castle stood guard over the medieval walled town across the estuary, backed by green mountains. A view to gawp at and gasp over.

Which room was that, then? It hardly matters — four of the Old Rectory’s bedrooms have views of the Conwy estuary, the other two overlook pretty gardens. All individually decorated, they’re just like the rest of the house: stylish and slightly quirky. One has a vast wardrobe rescued from a girls’ school, another boasts a great black four-poster with a barley-sugar twist to the bedposts.

My bed had a fruity garland carved in the footboard and a half-tester dripping with lace overhead. Apples glowed in a basket on the table, the television was discreetly hidden in a corner cupboard, and offstage lurked the sort of triangular bath in which Rita Hayworth would recline in strategically placed soap suds and a scarlet smile.

What’s for dinner? There are no choices to make at the Old Rectory — you eat what’s put in front of you, and fantastically good it is, too. Cooks don’t gain three red rosettes, César awards and an Egon Ronay star for nothing, and Wendy Vaughan — ably assisted by her culinary henchman, Christopher Jones — swings a mean skillet.

Their repertoire includes such delights as spiced monkfish, confit of duck and turbot in an ultrasmooth tomato sauce. My menu featured a starter of fillet of cod on mustard and caper lentils with tiny cubes of potato that literally melted in the mouth. Next up, a pungent and juicy rack of Conwy mountain lamb (“From Evans the Butcher of Colwyn Bay,” Michael told me), with a patty of leek and laver bread to complete the Welsh notes.

Three little puddings came on a pretty oblong dish — but by that stage, I wasn’t really paying attention to the menu. Wendy could have served up an old boot in estuary mud and I’d have trusted her skill and judgment. One pudding was creamy and redolent of cardamom, one was a sorbet in a crispy sort of shawl, and the third was hot and bitterly chocolatey. Next time I eat a dinner as good as that, it’ll be in heaven.

I’ve itchy feet ... If you mean literally, you can knock out those tickles on the North Wales Path from Conwy over the back of Conwy Mountain to Penmaenmawr — eight miles of exhilarating walking with views all the way and a return journey on the scenic coastal railway.

A half-hour hop in the car will put you in range of the ultimate North Walian challenge, Mount Snowdon itself. For something gentler, stretch your lungs on the huge, sandy beaches around Llandudno and Colwyn Bay, or take a short but stunning stroll along Conwy’s medieval town walls.

Who will like it? Morning people. Wake up, look out of the window, and all will seem right with the world.

Who won’t? Chef-botherers — Wendy keeps a low profile.

• The Old Rectory, in Llansanffraid Glan Conwy (01492 580611, www.oldrectorycountryhouse.co.uk), has doubles from £199, including dinner and breakfast. The restaurant is closed most Sundays and Mondays

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