Most women’s beauty requirements follow a clear trajectory. In your late teens
and early twenties it’s all about experimentation and fun – new colours, new
styles, ever-changing “looks”. In your late twenties and early thirties, as
you become more confident and self-aware, you will learn what suits you and
how to make the most of your assets. Somewhere around the mid-thirties
(precisely when depends on genes and lifestyle), you start noticing that you
need a little extra help in the mornings – a touch of concealer here, a
little more foundation there – to achieve what had previously come
naturally. By the time you enter your forties, the signs of ageing will have
begun to assert themselves in earnest.
It is about now that you may need to rethink your hairstyle and make-up.
Bleached blondes may find that a softer shade of yellow is more forgiving;
long hair may benefit from a trim, and a fringe can detract from a multitude
of worry lines.
Softer colours in make-up will be gentler on a fading complexion: it may be
time to ditch the red lipstick. This is also the time when most women will,
if they are that way inclined, consider some form of plastic surgery,
whether it be a full-on facelift or a judicious jab here and there. Once
achieved, however, the transition can be rather liberating, and women in
their fifties and sixties should focus on looking groomed. It is still
perfectly possible to stay abreast of trends, as long as you keep
expectations realistic. And remember – whatever your age, it’s not about
pursuing an impossible ideal but about looking the best you can, on your own
terms.
AGE DEFIANCE: PART 2: FACE
Age 15-25
At this age you can carry off even the most outlandish trends purely by virtue
of extreme youth. Make-up is not so much about concealing or improving the
appearance, it’s about standing out, finding an identity, making a
statement. It’s fun, daring, and you can afford to make mistakes. Hair
addicts looking for something special might like to try the Daniel Hersheson
Blow Dry Bar at Topshop (020-7927 7888). Nestling in the throbbing disco
heart of Topshop in Oxford Circus, this place is the perfect solution for
those school/office-to-party days. Choose your style from a menu card of
eight and leave looking like Brigitte Bardot or Veronica Lake (well, ish).
Another excellent grooming investment (for all ages, in fact) is a proper
eyebrow shape. A classic schoolgirl error is plucking your eyebrows to
oblivion, but please don’t. Head instead for Blink Brow Bar, where a tint
costs £12 and threading (the hair removal technique, where cotton thread is
spun over the skin, removing hairs quickly and with astonishing precision)
costs £17. Blink has brow bars in Selfridges, Fenwick and Harvey Nichols,
and you can have anything from a total reshape to a quick tidy. Well-defined
eyebrows have a surprisingly positive effect on the face, and all the
threaders are expert at determining the shape that will work best with your
features.
Sleep retreat Katya Hadaway, 15 Teenage Style and Image workshop, £200 per
person www.youisforyou.com ;
Tel: Judy Owen, 01905 28993 Four of us went on a Teenage Style and Image
workshop in London. It lasted two and a half hours but we could have done
with more time. First, they taught us about bra-fitting; it was really
useful and made me realise that none of mine actually fits. They also dealt
with how to search for cancerous lumps, which is obviously vital. The
make-up lesson was a bit of a waste of time – it was too “pretty” – but the
skincare was extremely educational, and we learnt what colours suited our
complexions. I like the idea of this but right now I will probably carry on
wearing my favourites anyway.
Age 25-35
This is when most women look their best, having left behind the growing pains
of youth and finally come into their own. There may be some hangovers from
teenage years – typically acne, which may have left a degree of scarring.
Glycolic peels can help in some instances, although results tend to be mixed
and depend very much on the severity of the damage. Make-up-wise, many women
strive for a slightly more sophisticated, groomed look, although they are
not yet at the stage where they need to worry too much about ageing.
Neverthless, a certain amount of burning the candle at both ends tends to
take place during these years, so it pays to establish a good skincare
regime. For career women who have yet to start families, grooming is on the
agenda – plenty of manicures and pedicures, and copious facials (if memory
serves). All that tails off with the arrival of children (no time, no
money), so enjoy it while you can.
Skin appraisal
Claire Jones, 26 Consultation with Dr Jennifer Jones, British Skin
Foundation Dermatologist, £120 Tel: 020-7794 0500
While I have never had bad acne, I have always suffered from spots. Throughout
my teenage years I was prescribed various treatments by my GP that kept
things at bay, and when I was in my twenties a dermatologist prescribed
Roaccutane, a heavy-duty course of pills which did not work in the long
term. Dr Jennifer Jones at the Royal Free Hospital in Hampstead, northwest
London, took a more thorough approach, taking into account my medical and
family history. She explained the causes of my type of skin condition and
prescribed me a course of oral antibiotics as well as a Retin A cream. She
told me to come back in three months for a follow-up appointment and, if the
treatment hasn’t worked, there are other options that we can explore. So
far, so good – my skin is looking fresher than it has done in years.
Make-up Sacha
Bonsor, 32 Make-up lesson, Fenwick (£50, redeemable if you buy any products
used) Contact the personal shopping and beauty studio, Tel: 020-7409
9824 I once applied my make-up so badly that I had to go to the party
wearing an eye patch; come my thirties, I thought it was time to learn how
to make the best of myself. I wanted a day look “that hides the fact that
I’m wearing any make-up” and a night look – “something sexy but not tarty,”
I told Frey-ja Barker, a make-up artist at Fenwick. She was full of
indispensable tips (light colours for good features, dark for bad),
introduced me to some magic products (Bobbi Brown cream shadow) and sent me
off with a chart so that I could replicate her magic. I haven’t quite
managed – but so far the eye patch hasn’t been needed.
Age 35-45
This is a difficult age for many women, as the combined effect of family, work
and no longer being a spring chicken takes its toll. Life is stressful,
sleep is precious — and for many women, so-called “me time” is a long way
down the list of priorities.
Part of the battle is coming to terms with the physical changes that can be
symptomatic of this age: the aftermath of pregnancy, putting on weight, the
appearance of fine lines, the first age spots, open pores, pigmentation. An
overall lifestyle review may be in order, perhaps paying more attention to
diet and making a serious effort to kick bad habits such as smoking and
eating or drinking too much.
This can be a turning point: you either take control and fight back, or you
drift gently towards middle age. Both approaches have their advantages —
it’s up to you which road you take. Facials can be extremely beneficial at
this stage, not least because they afford you some peace and quiet for an
hour or so.
Botox
Sue Armstrong, 41Botox injections, French Cosmetic Doctor at Work Ltd, £500 www.sebagh.com;Tel: 020-7637 0548
I was rather hoping that Monsieur Le Docteur Sebagh would take one look at my
41-year-old skin and declare that nothing needed doing. But no — and there
is no arguing with this face rescuer to the rich and famous. Botox it was to
be — “You need it!”
After a reassuring and convincingly scientific introduction, the treatment was
swift and only slightly uncomfortable (I took two paracetamol and shut my
eyes). I asked for an au naturel look, not wanting to go down the
frozen-forehead route, and for a while it seemed that Dr Sebagh had so taken
me at my word that he had made no difference at all. Work colleagues? Not a
peep. Mother? Nada. And then, five days after the treatment, I was lying in
the bath with my husband (whom I had not told) after a long country walk.
“You know, darling,” he said, “you really have no frown lines at all. You
still have the face of a 24-year-old.”
Age 45-55
By now the ageing process has begun in earnest, which need only be depressing
if you allow it to be. By no means stop making an effort — just don’t try to
compete with women half your age. Console yourself with the thought that age
comes to us all, and that fresh-faced lovely who just caught the waiter’s
eye before you will, in ten years’ time, find herself in precisely the same
boat. Should you have the stomach and the wallet for it, now is a prime time
to embrace plastic surgery. Don’t try to erase the years, just soften their
effects slightly. The aim should always be to look as though you have just
returned from a lovely long holiday with lots of rest and good food — not as
if you were caught bungee-jumping when the wind changed. Surgery should
always be a last resort: no matter what the glossy brochures say, it is
always painful and often traumatic. You can go a long way on a good diet,
regular exercise and a decent haircut. Have regular blood tests to check for
vitamin deficiencies (low iron is common in this age group, as well as
depleted stores of magnesium and calcium) and keep a weather eye on those
pesky hormones, as the wretched menopause can wreak havoc on skin, hair and
waistline.
Acupuncture
Alicia Windsor, 39 Facial acupuncture with John Tsagaris at The Health
Doctors, £200 for an hour 4 Duke Street, London W1; Tel: 0871 9030000
The thought of having more than a dozen needles inserted in one’s face is not
exactly reassuring. I felt slightly nervous while the needles were inserted,
but most of them didn’t hurt (a couple near my nose were painful, but not
for long). Their removal was easy and I felt fine after the treatment. The
next day, however, I looked drained and felt sick and tired (an immediate
after-effect, apparently). The day after that, though, I was a new woman.
Several people commented on how amazing my skin looked, and I felt truly
sparkling.
Age 55-65
Keep on buggering on, as Churchill used to say. A common problem for this age
group is failing eyesight, which can make it difficult to apply make-up
properly. You can buy special spectacles with one lens that flips down while
you peer through the other to apply your mascara: not terribly glamorous,
but they get the job done. Regular facials will help to keep skin as supple
and radiant as possible, and there are numerous lifting, anti-ageing
treatments on the market. The Elemis Anti Ageing Facial (£115) is
particularly effective, not to say luxurious, featuring numerous creams and
masks to restore and revitalise skin, plus a heavenly foot, shoulder, arm
and hand massage. Certain brands, such as Natura Bisse, specialise in
skincare for this age group, with excellent results. The Natura Bisse Deep
Expression line and dermo-filling treatment at Urban Retreat, Harrods
(020-7893 8333) is expensive (£180) but will leave skin noticeably plumper,
less lined and firmer on the face and décolleté area. There is a limit to
what a mere face cream can do, though, so don’t be tempted to spend hundreds
of pounds on a moisturiser. The Boots anti-ageing range has a wealth of lab
expertise behind it and is sensibly priced.
Murad facial
Charlotte Spiro, 51Murad renewal facial, from £95 At Harrods, London
W1;Tel: 020-7893 8333
The Murad Renewal Facial is otherwise known as the hormonal facial. Having got
over the fact that being of a certain age I no longer qualified for an
ordinary facial but needed one designed specifically for “the older skin”, I
gave myself up to the experience. An hour of bliss ensued: hot flannels,
cold flannels, warm creams, cold creams, steam and massage with the lightest
touch. It was certainly looking as though the menopause had an upside. Was
my skin renewed? It felt as if it deserved to be — and even if it wasn’t, I
certainly was.
Facial course
Deborah Deeble, 53 A course of facials at Guinot Beauty Salon, £176 www.guinot.comTel: 0800 590084
I had bad acne in my early twenties, but over the years it has improved
greatly. I had never had a facial in my life, so I was intrigued. The course
of treatments at Guinot in London was to be held over four weeks: I was to
have a Beaute Neuve (a gentle peeling facial) for three weeks (45 minutes,
£42) and on the fourth a special Guinot Hydradermie, a deep-cleansing facial
using a manual machine (1 hour 15 minutes, £50).
The products had lovely citrus scents (some had been specially prepared for
Guinot) and the Hydradermie treatment was a very pleasant experience. My
skin is now absolutely clear and sparkling. I cannot recommend the course
highly enough.
Age 65+
Make-up at this stage should be kept as soft and neutral as possible. Avoid
bright, garish colours, especially on the lips and eyes, where colour may
bleed on less-than-smooth skin. Maybe think about switching your black
mascara to a dark brown one, and invest in some neutral, creamy eyeshadows
in soft pinks, pearly beiges or browns. Illuminating skin creams (Boots No7
is excellent) can be very flattering on older skin, making it look less dull
and more dewy. A little tinted moisturiser will also go a long way, and is
easier and more foolproof than foundation, which can emphasise wrinkles.
Skin at this age has a tendency to be dry and thin, so try to use a good
emollient to avoid flaking and cracking. Manicures and pedicures are a
better investment than ever, as hard skin and talon-like nails are very
ageing. If your eyebrows are sparse, give them a boost with an eyebrow
pencil — but again, be careful to use a light, natural shade. Blink’s
nourishing brow oil may help to encourage regrowth.
Deep cleanse
Anne Burke, 55 The Skin Matters facial, £200 Dr Nabet’s Medical Rooms, Soma
Centre, Royal Garden Hotel, 2-24 Kensington High Street, London W8 Tel:
020-7361 0616
Joanne at Skin Matters Facial combines a deep-cleansing anti-ageing facial with
serious “problem solving” that really works.The facial was tailor-made to my
requirements: I had an extremely dry skin which was starved of natural oils.
She started by deep-cleansing the skin with steam extraction and hydration,
smoothing wrinkles around the eye area. Then she removed whitehead spots
that had been bothering me (slightly painful, but worth it) and managed to
reduce the number of open pores on my cheeks at the same time.
Ultrasound
Molly Everett, 68 CACI Ultra, from £60 Tel: 020-7435 1554
I arrived for the session looking knackered after a sleepless overnight
flight. CACI Ultra is the application of microcurrent, ultrasound,
high-frequency and diode photo-stimulation. Afterwards I looked in the
mirror and thought that my face looked a bit “worked on” — but a day later
it was looking fresh, rested and less haggard, plus I didn’t need my
mandatory Touche Éclat.
Then came the brilliant bit: Joanne used a laser and IPL (intense pulsed
light) to reduce rosacea on my forehead — which is now porcelain white
instead of an angry red.
I came away with glowing skin and definitely feel five years younger. The
final touch, by the way, was an excellent eyebrow-tidy. I shall return for a
second treatment to zap two large veins on my nose, which Joanne told me
could not be done in one session.
Lasers
Josephine Hardy, 62 The Palomar StarLux*1540 Fractional laser and Pulsed
Light System for pigmentation, from £550 per session www.woodfordmedical.comTel: 01245 227983
The laser “pinpricks” were directed at my problem areas and, although it was
slightly uncomfortable, I got used to the sensation after the first ten
beams. The treatment caused me no real pain: I was given about 180 pinpricks
per session, during which time I relaxed and dreamt of a blemish-free face.
I felt a tingly, warm sensation when the laser shot was applied and there
was a slight burning smell (actually my facial hair being burnt off). My
face warmed a bit more and the pigmentation spots showed up darker, with
slight redness that lasted for about two hours.
With medicated creams applied to my skin before my normal make-up, I was able
to face the world in a couple of hours. Two days later, the spots faded
gradually and there was a marked difference to my sunspots and red spider
veins. My skin actually felt tighter and smoother in just a few days. After
six weeks, I almost had a new face. Three sessions at two-week intervals was
definitely worth it to eliminate years of pigmentation, sunspots and
neglect.
"Should you have the stomach and the wallet for it, now is a prime time to embrace plastic surgery...Surgery should always be a last resort"
Make up your minds!
Oh, and your top tip for 35-45 year olds is Botox? I would never have thought of that on my own!
Oonagh, Hong Kong,
There's no doubt that genes do play a part but the Western diet, sunbathing, alcohol, cigarettes, partying hard, all contribute to looking old.
Mia , Brisbane, Australia