As a teenager, Stina Nicholson – now 32 – assumed that she’d grow out of the severe acne that affected her cheeks, chin, jaw line and neck. But by her mid-20s the inflamed spots, which could be unbearably itchy, showed no signs of abating. Nicholson, a nail technician from Cornwall, took to wearing thick foundation and lost her her confidence.

“I look back at my wedding photographs and wish that I hadn’t worn such heavy make-up,” she says. “People tend to think of acne as trivial, but severe acne hits your self-esteem hard.”

For most adults, acne is a distant memory, but according to the British Association of Dermatologists, 14 per cent of women aged 26 to 44 are sufferers. Whether an adolescent or adult, the cause of the disease is the same: oversensitivity to testosterone. Sensitivity leads skin glands to produce too much oil, which causes blocked pores and the growth of a bacteria called propionobacterium acnes, and eventually, spots. There is no evidence that poor facial hygiene plays a part.

After ten days she noticed improvement

GPs faced with severe adult acne tend to prescribe topical retinoid creams to unblock skin pores. Topical or oral antibiotics are often prescribed in more stubborn cases. But years of retinoid creams, antibiotic creams and oral antibiotics did little to help Nicholson. “Prescribed creams just left me with dry, irritated skin,” she says. “Oral antibiotics and the contraceptive pill, helped a bit, but I had to stop taking them when I wanted to get pregnant.”

Her spots eventually cleared up when she tried a new over-the-counter oral treatment containing a protein – lactoferrin – derived from milk. The manufacturer says that its antibacterial action dramatically reduces acne. A friend had recommended the supplement when Nicholson was pregnant with her second child, Sophie, in September 2005, and she was unable to take conventional treatments. But after years of failed treatments, Nicholson was sceptical.

“I started taking two tablets in the morning; two in the evening,” she recalls. “After ten days, I noticed some improvement. My husband said, ‘Your skin’s looking clearer’. I couldn’t believe it.”

But so far the experts are unconvinced. Professor Bill Cunliffe, a dermatologist from the British Skin Foundation, says: “I’d urge caution over the wide range of over-the-counter supplements available for acne. It may well be that this milk protein has a beneficial effect, but I’d want to see more studies.”

Nicholson, however, has the all evidence she needs. After 30 days on the supplement, the red, angry spots had almost disappeared and she now gets just a few spots around the time of her period. “It’s lovely to hear friends saying how good my skin looks. Recently I went to a ball with my husband. I had the confidence to wear my hair away from my face. I was spot-free.”

Face to Face, £18.95 for 60 capsules at Nutri Centre, 0800 5872290, www.nutricentre.com

WHAT’S THE EVIDENCE? DR TOBY MURCOTT

Is there any evidence that alternative acne treatments work?

LACTOFERRIN This protein derived from milk has an antibacterial action said to dramatically reduce acne.

Any evidence? There are no good quality trials of lactoferrin for acne.

The manufacturers did a study but there was no comparison with other treatments or a placebo.

TEA TREE OIL Made from the leaves of the paperbark tree native to southern Australia, said to have antibacterial properties.

Any evidence? A study of 60 patients this year found that 5 per cent tea tree oil did reduce spots.

Body Shop Tea Tree Oil Foaming Face Wash, £5.50, www.bodyshop.co.uk. Tea tree oil is not safe to use during pregnancy.

SALICYLIC ACID From willow tree bark; aspirin is derived from this compound.

Any evidence? A number of small clinical trials suggest that salicylic acid is as effective as benzoyl peroxide (used in many over-the-counter acne remedies). It is also used as a “chemical peel” for acne but this should be done only under medical supervision. A range of overthe counter preparations contain salicylic acid, such as Skin Doctors Overnight Zit Zapper, £9.95, www.skindoctors.co.uk

BREWER’S YEAST Proponents say this acts by regulating production of oil by the skin glands on the face and neck.

Any evidence? A single 1989 study of 139 acne patients found that 75 per cent showed considerable improvement compared with 22 per cent given a placebo. Not enough to draw firm conclusions. Dayenne Cleansing Milk, containing brewer’s yeast, is £14.99, www.dayenne.co.uk

ZINC Some people think that low zinc levels are connected to the overproduction of testosterone.

Any evidence? Zinc deficiency can cause skin problems, and zinc has been used to treat acne. However, a review last year concluded that other treatments are normally more effective. High levels of zinc are toxic so stick to the recommended daily levels. Nature’s Best Zinc 15mg Zinc Tablets, £4.95, www.naturesbest.co.uk

N-LITE LASER TREATMENT

A laser device held close to the skin emits a pulsed beam of light that is said to kill the bacteria that can cause acne.

Any evidence? A 2007 study of 15 patients found that facial acne responded well to the treatment. Available at private clinics; treatment starts at £200 at the Private Clinic, Harley Street, www.theprivateclinic.co.uk .

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