Valerie Elliott, Consumer Editor
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Farmers like to complain that no one buys British any more and the delicious food that they produce is ignored in favour of foreign muck.
Now their fears have been confirmed - at least as far as Whitehall and government departments are concerned.
Figures published yesterday show that only just over half of all food served in Whitehall and in public institutions, such as the NHS and prisons, is British. The rest is shipped or flown into the country.
The detailed breakdown of the £1.8 billion a year spent on meat, poultry, vegetables, potatoes and fruit for civil servants and ministers across the Government – published for the first time by Hilary Benn, the Rural Affairs Secretary – shows that only 25 per cent of bacon bought across the Government is British. About 95 per cent of the apples bought by the NHS are imports while just one in ten fish served by the Foreign Office is from British waters or farms.
Some of the worst offenders are Revenue & Customs, the Treasury and private prisons, which are supervised by the Ministry of Justice.
The figures are released as Gordon Brown appears today to support the National Farmers’ Union, the National Beef and Sheep Associations, in their attempt to obtain fair prices for beef and lamb producers.
The figures were collated from July 1, 2006, to June 30 this year, when Mr Brown was still Chancellor.
Downing Street at present does not keep records of the origin of food served from its kitchens. However, there appears to be a gulf between the warm words spoken by ministers in support of British farmers and the food served on their plate. Mr Benn has personally telephoned supermarket bosses to urge them to back British farmers suffering from flooding, foot-and-mouth, bluetongue and a new threat from avian flu.
Serving soldiers seem to be treated only a little better than prisoners as far as the quality of their food is concerned – prisoners receive no British “farm-assured” food, but less than 5 per cent of that purchased by the Ministry of Defence is farm-assured, which means that soldiers are effectively being fed on low-grade meat.
Organic food – both from Britain and overseas – comprised just over 8 per cent of the food served in Whitehall. Even diplomats in the Foreign Office find that 0.1 per cent of the morsels they enjoy is of British origin.
One of the most surprising findings in the figures is that only just over 40 per cent of apples, pears and plums served in Whitehall are British grown. Prisoners and staff in state-run prisons do not get British fruit at all, while in the NHS only 5 per cent of fruit is of British origin.
British lamb and mutton suffers a similar fate. About 43 per cent of lamb and mutton served in Whitehall originates from this country, but the taste of British mountain lamb is denied to inmates in state prisons while of the lamb used by the Department for Children, Schools and Families, only 7 per cent is British; the figure is 13 per cent for the Ministry of Defence.
There are also curious findings about British poultry. Consumers in the country buy almost 100 per cent British chicken and turkey. In Whitehall, however, 64 per cent of the poultry purchased is British – yet none of this goes to state prisons.
Mr Benn said last night that he was committed to the Government’s public sector food procurement initiative. But he made clear that there were strict EU regulations which prevented countries from favouring their own national suppliers.
However, there are a number of schemes such as in Cornish hospitals and schools in Bradford, West Yorkshire, where tenders have been issued with specifications for fresh local seasonal produce and a requirement for suppliers to reduce food miles.
Anthony Gibson, a spokesman for the National Farmers’ Union, said that he was deeply concerned by the picture. “The figures are alarming. There is no reason on earth why they should not be buying British as opposed to imported. The Government should be setting an example. The aspiration is to have a sustainable beef and sheep industry, but we can’t achieve that if departments like the Ministry of Defence are buying almost 90 per cent imported lamb and almost half imported beef.”
He called on Gordon Brown to start instructing departments to order British lamb and beef as a preference. “There are ways of getting round EU tendering rules. If there is a will there is a way. What seems to be lacking is the will.”
Peter Ainsworth, the Conservative Rural Affairs Spokesman, said that Whitehall did not understand the benefits of buying British. “On UK apples alone, 5 per cent is an appalling figure for the NHS. We have the adage ‘An apple a day keeps the doctor away’. Why can’t we have a UK apple to keep the doctor away? This will also help our farmers and cut down our food miles.”
He described as “unbelievable” the low take-up of British bacon. “This is the Government failing to put its money where its mouth is,” he said.
Peter Melchett, spokesman for the Soil Association, the organic food organisation, said the figures showed that the Government’s attitude was “grossly hypocritical” in encouraging others to buy British.
“I don’t even think the problem is one of price. I just don’t think food is something they care about. This is not just about supporting farmers it is also to cut CO2 emissions and help the environment.”
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I most admit I go to look at the tenders section of my local county council once ever 1 to 2 months and it has always struck me that the county food ordering is so large a volume that it must come in either fright containers or big refridgerated trucks,, volumes are so large that a local farmer cannot compete even if they were to club togeather and form a co-operative. Business has just moved on so much.
The openness of the ECC tender in the local county council websites is so easy for a Dutch wholesaler ( I say Dutch as most food comes via Holland) that they do not even need a storage area in this country,, the food is just trucked in and delivered as if from local.
Nicholas Iles, Oswestry, Shropshire
British Food for a British Government!
Now that seems a better slogan than Gordons British Jobs for British Workers.
Oli Cooper, Derbyshire, UK
I wonder if Mr Carlos Bell can catalogue what contribution the United States of America has made to International Cuisine? I look forward to the day when that culture stop eating the hamburger and begin to eat Humble Pie.
Paul S. Webb, Alicante, Spain
British supermarkets, which have been allowed by politicians to dominate Britain's retail market, serve the most bland "plastic-wrapped" food. Readers should go to any French, Belgian, Dutch or German town to see the vibrant local markets which are always well-attended by people of all ages and social classes, and laden with exciting fresh vegatables, breads, cakes, cheese and just about everything else one would wish to buy. Oh yes, and about a third less in price than our so-called "value-for-money" supermarkets.
Neil, Gloucestershire, England
Having seen successive governments (across the world) ignore their primary agriculture economies - it is good to hear words. However remember if you eat your words you do not get much nourishment.
A little action from the politicians & and a little more regulation of the food chain - specifically grocery markets.
Richard, Bucharest, Romania
Firstly, British beef is the safest in the world - no where else is it monitored so vigorously. We have become far too used to supermarket prices where prices are kept artificially low by unethical buying practices, hence the true price of food can come as a shock when the farmer asks for it in return for their quality produce.
The government needs to put its money where its mouth is, lead the way and invest in British food as standard. Otherwise their policies are pure hypocrisy. The EU regulations are easily 'got round' and there is no excuse to not buy British food. Britain has the highest standards in the world when it comes to food production and we should be proud to eat it and reject unsustainable, lower quality imports.
Not a farmer, London, UK
To my fellow American who complain about British food - all I can say is your tastebuds must have been damaged at Mcdonalds. I've never eaten food better than when in England or Wales.
If the British government is serious about being green than it should be buying locally.
Linda, New York City, USA
Is Mr Benn on an airmiles scheme for ths food imported?
Jay, Thatcham,
Continuity of supply shouldn't be issue, try seasonal recipes we managed for several centuries before importing. We've lost touch of food and where it comes from!
British Beef not safe - me thinks you eaten too much South Amercian Beef my friend!!! Come on catch up!
British Food AWFUL!!! Depends on how you cook it - Welsh Lamb is the best in the world - British Beef is a highly valued export, We have more varities of cheese than France, we have some fantastic fruit and veg - our apple and pear heritage is something to be celebrated. Yes disease outbreaks are not helpful but if you shop local, know the products and the producers and I think you may enjoy your food at bit more.
Tim Ashley, Oswestry, Shropshire, Britain
I'm all for supporting local farmers--I even know some of them!
Of course you should support your country, by buying goods grown there.
Unfortunately, some of us aren't able to buy local, as it's much more expensive than just buying a tin of veg or some cheap meat from heaven-knows-where...bottom line is, for some of us--buy what's cheapest, or literally do not eat.
I also enjoy food from other countries--including the UK...of course, I'm less able to afford imports. Good food is good food, no matter where it comes from.
On a similar note--how is the food issue, any different than that of manufactured goods? How many jobs have been lost to places like China, India, Pakistan and Mexico? How many of you reading this, buy only British, or only American goods? How is supporting countries that took away jobs from us, helping our nations? Think about that, for a moment.
nancy, glens falls NY, USA
Is there really any reason why the food should be British? It is against EU tendering rules. The government should buy from the cheapest provider for given quality. Otherwise we, the taxpayers, will pay the difference.
Paula, London,
If you travel to almost any country in Europe or the developed world. Most if not all people and restaurants eat, serve and promote home grown food. It seems as if we have made great strides to improve the situation in the UK with farmers markets and TV chefs promoting local food. However this is typical of government who it seems only care what happens within the confines of the M25. I bet Prime Minister Sarkozy does not sit down to eat Welsh Lamb or British Beef!
Dan Collinson, Preston, Lancs
If Peter Bracknell were to study the facts, he would find that "cheap " food is a myth. The search for it is believed to have given us BSE. It has given us intensive factory farming, necessitating the prophylactic use of antibiotics, which in turn has given us superbugs such as MRSA which are resistant to vital antibiotics, so NHS costs go up and patients die. If only more consumers would realize that when they buy the cheapest animal products on sale, they are being subsidized by the suffering of defenceless sentient beings. Eat less meat and waste less meat, and pay a fair price for it. Fair to the animals and fair to the farmers, many of whom are now going out of business because they are paid prices below the reasonable cost of production. Much of this "cheap" food is imported and is from animals reared under conditions that are illegal in this country. Myself, if I could not find animals products with reliable welfare certification, eg Soil Assoc., I would be vegan.
Joyce Smith, Witney, Oxon, UK
Tony..
Living in cornwall you should know that the best fruit and veg is not bought in tescos but from farm shops or the stalls on the side of the road, then you are buying truly fresh local produce which most of the time is also organic
Ben Russell, Keila (previously the lizard), Estonia
Tea, coffee, rice, citrus fruit etc... it is not possible to purchase all food locally. Let us keep things in perspective.
Michael Lavender, Worthing, West Sussex
While I disagree with Mr. Bell in regards to British cuisine, I also disagree with Mr. Leslie criticising American cuisine. That's funny coming from someone whose homeland thought it would be fun to deep fry a Mars bar. Fact of the matter is, both countries have their fair share of unhealthy eating habits. And, yes, the UK has imported many of those via McDonalds and other fast food chain giants. That's unfortunate, I agree. But there are also many local chip shops and other shops that serve fatty, unhealthy food. And fyi Chantel, we do have lovely parma ham and salamis and other treats from all over the world, readily available where I live.
Alicia, Powhatan, VA/USA
You get what you pay for. The government has promoted cheap food, but sadly cheap food does not keep our farmers in business. They are proud livestock rearers and produce growers who are constantly being let down by our supermarket buyers, food service buyers and public procurement buyers. The buyers have little interest in ensuring this world class industry, will be here tomorrow. Not surprisingly, not all farmers sit back and accept the situation. So learning to market their own produce, cooperating together to form marketing groups, adding value, and meeting high "farm assured" standards goes some way to improving their lot. Support British farmers and their produce; only buy food with the Red Tractor logo and ask where it is sourced from. Put pressure on the schools, hospitals, government, and supermarkets to change their sourcing policy to support our own farming industry. Once it's gone, it's gone.
Tonka, Harrogate,
Most readers would be the first in line to complain about government waste. Obviously prisons etc. are buying in food at the cheapest prices; its just a shame that cheap food is not British.
Peter, Bracknell, UK
Carlos Bell, Washington DC. Mutton??? haven't seen it for years. And as for the country that brought us McDonalds criticising our cuisine, well that takes the (Danish) bacon. That bit of the US beef sector that isn't riven by FMD is so stuffed full of anti-biotics, that it is unfit for human (other than American) consumption. And we can see, by the number of svelte Americans walking down the streets, how your consumption of fruit and vegetables is taken so seriously. I didn't realise that they contained so much fat!
David Leslie, Perth, Scotland
I enjoy Cornish potatoes and Hereford strawberries from my local Tesco branch but a recent purchase of English apples revealed rotten and badly damaged ones so I am back on foreign ones. Wild Rocket appears to only come from Italy but most vegetables are local.
Insofar as meat is concerned I enjoy British beef but where the meat in ready meals most of us now consume comes from is a mystery.
Perhaps the government and NHS have also found similar failings and settle for overseas produce that appears to be in better condition.
Our producers do need to improve their quality standards and sort their wares properly instead of leaving poor quality items in their packs to spoil good ones or is there a touch of "It's only for the UK so it does not matter"!..
Tony Quirke, Laity, Helston, Cornwall
"the taste of British mountain lamb is denied to inmates in state prisons" - Why exactly should they receive British mountain lamb? They retracted their rights to good food when they infringed upon the rights of their victims!
As for Carlos L Bell: Remind me of all the lovely parma hams, salamis, etc you cannot get in the US because you lot don't trust your sense of taste and smell??
To James Rea, if you want to eat mass produced cheap food, go to Tesco... the taste will reflect the cost, as will the treatment of the animals.
Chantel, UK,
Britsh People ought to respect Britsh food!! "James Rea" what do you mean by 'Britsh Beef is probably still not safe'??? And as for Carlos L. Bell from Washington DC- Britsh mutton is absolutley gorgeous- much prefer that than some muck from one of americas "amazing" fast food outlets!!
Perhaps people who dont understand Britsh Rural Affairs ought to keep thier heads in the sand.
Jenna Kerby, South Molton, UK
Continuity of supply wouldn't be an issue then? Surely this is the fault of the British seasons! (But I blame the government anyway.)
Diane, Sutton,
One big problem is that British Beef is probably still not safe,and our farmers expect unreasonably high prices for their produce ,a visit to any farmers market will prove that..........
James Rea, Launceston, UK
Let's be honest British food or cuisine whatever you want to call it is AWFUL!!!!!!!!!,not trying to be rude first world country still eating mutton Come on they want better fruit,vegetables meat and poultry thaat your farmers offer and all kind of dieases occur in your agriculture sector like foot and mouth, blue tongue and avian flu. I feel sorry for your farm sector seems to be cursed.
Carlos L. Bell, WashingtonDC, USA