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Food companies have doubled the amount of sugar they add to some of their most popular products — including soups and cereals — in an attempt to attract sweet-toothed customers.
Some of the biggest increases in sugar have been in breakfast cereals, and even wholemeal bread has become far sweeter. It now routinely contains nearly a teaspoonful of sugar in every three slices.
Experts warn that the trend, which can be traced back over three decades, is likely to get worse as sugar prices fall and salt levels are reduced by health watchdogs.
In 1978 Kellogg’s Special K had 9.6g of sugar per 100g, but this has now nearly doubled to 17g — a similar level to vanilla ice-cream.
Soaring consumption of sugar has been blamed for high levels of tooth decay and increases in diabetes. Many scientists have implicated it in rising rates of obesity.
Ian Tokelove, a spokesman for the Food Commission, which campaigns for healthier foods, said: “Most of us are eating too much sugar, but we are being swamped with it in our food.
“We naturally have a sweet tooth and manufacturers have been quick to use that to try to increase sales in a crowded marketplace. It’s cheap to use and it’s been one of the first things to be added when companies want to make a product a bit different.”
Food companies maintain that sugar forms a useful part of a balanced diet, but an article in the British Medical Journal in 2005 warned: “Sugar is as dangerous as tobacco and, in terms of world health, far more important.”
The Food Standards Agency (FSA), which launched a crack-down on salt two years ago, wants companies to reduce the amount of added sugar in food products and is even considering imposing legal limits.
The Sunday Times discovered the increases in sugar levels by analysing data in an industry handbook on the nutritional value of foods — McCance and Widdowson’s The Composition of Foods, which has editions covering 1978 to 2002.
The 1978 edition shows that cans of tomato soup contained on average 2.6g of sugar per 100g in 1978. By contrast, many soups today have double that amount. A can of Waitrose tomato soup on sale last week had 6.4g of sugar per 100g, with almost three spoonfuls of sugar in every bowl.
The amount of sugar in a typical loaf of wholemeal bread rose from 2.1g per 100g in 1978 to 2.8g per 100g in 2002. A loaf of Hovis wholemeal bread now has 3.7g of sugar per 100g while Sainsbury’s wholemeal bread has 3.5g per 100g.
Kellogg’s has increased the sugar content in some of its best-selling cereals. Cornflakes now have 8g of sugar per 100g compared with 7.4g in 1978; All-Bran has 17g compared with 15.4g in 1978, and Rice Krispies have 10g of sugar, up 1g since 1978.
Much of the extra sugar in the modern diet is blamed on processed foods. A study by Which? released earlier this month found Asda sticky chilli chicken contained 19.2g of sugar per 100g and Tesco crispy beef with sweet chilli sauce had 23.1g per 100g.
Jack Winkler, professor of nutrition policy at London Metropolitan University, said that despite government efforts to reduce sugar in the modern diet, it was likely to increase because European Union trade reforms were reducing its price.
“It’s hard to think of a more irresponsible policy than cutting the price of sugar in the middle of an obesity epidemic. It means manufacturers will be putting more of it in their products, not less,” he said.
It is not just manufactured foods that have seen their sugar content rise. Supermarkets have also been selecting sweeter varieties of fruit and vegetables to appeal to customers.
According to McCance and Widdowson, between 1978 and 2002 the amount of sugar in a banana rose from 16.2g per 100g to 20.9g; the quantity in a pear rose from 7.6g per 100g to 10g; the content for carrots rose from 5.4g per 100g to 7.4g.
Waitrose said its tomato soup was one of a number of products being reformulated with lower amounts of added sugar.
Jenny Walton, a nutritionist for Kellogg’s, said some of its cereals had been made with extra sugar because other ingredients, such as salt, had been reduced.
Hovis said: “Hovis Wholemeal does contain a small amount of brown sugar. The quantities of sugar do not affect the nutritional benefits of the bread.”
Sainsbury’s said that it was reviewing a number of products to see if the sugar and salt levels could be reduced.
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Until 18 April 2008, you can sign a petition at
http://petitions.pm.gov.uk/SugarDuty/
asking the Prime Minister to consider bringing sugars into the duty regime (a well tested tax regime, applied to alcohol, tobacco and petrol, amongst others).
The aim of this duty is to raise the cost of sugars to manufacturers, in the hope that this will encurage them to reduce the sugar content of their food products. Fat chance, given the irresponsible EU policy alluded to in the above article, but even an initial zero rate would signal that the government means business and is preparing to do to sugar what it did to tobacco.
Sugar, like petrol, comes out of a refinery (not an oil refinery, silly) and, like petrol, is transported in bulk tankers. So this can't be hard to tax. EU-wide implementation would be desirable, but a zero-rate duty could be introduced tomorrow on this island alone.
Please sign the petition - it takes seconds.
Henk Bakker, Romford, UK
I am curious about the increased sugar content of fruit and vegetables. Is this because supermarket stores are choosing to sell sweeter varieties or is it to do with the cultivation of certain fruit and vegetables?
Katrina Reid, Glasgow, Scotland
The Hovis Spokeperson says the brown sugar in their wholemeal bread "does not affect the nutritional benefits of the bread". Well it does if you have to balance the amount of sugar units in each mouthful of food eaten as is the case with Type I Diabetes. And if you get it wrong because the food manufacturer has decided (for marketing reasons rather than nutritional reasons) to add some hidden sugar to the meal you are eating, then over time the diabetes becomes more difficult to balance and the blood sugar levels rise and health over the long term deterorates. Now try telling me that this isn't an unwanted nutritional affect!
Nigel Crossland, Swettenham Village, UK/Cheshire
Damn, yet another underhand tactic by the food companies, I shall be watching yet another ingredient. Its a shame that something like special K, which people widely consider to be a health, or at least healthy, food, has the same levels of sugar as vanilla ice cream. I realise it is a naive wish, but why cant the food complanies act morally? It is making me move more and more towards purchasing the base, unprocessed foods and making everything myself. Damn I hate commercial dishonesty.
Iain, Eastleigh, hampshire
I guess that explains why priocessed tastes so repulsive and exactly the same no matter what it is supposed to be or what label it has. Yuck!
Rhiannon , Forres,
It's not only the amount of sugar in our foods but the amount of over-refined ingredients such as modified starch, maize and soya that can be quickly converted by our bodies into high blood sugar levels that cannot be completely dissipated during subsequent activity and leads to the residue is being stored as fat. The review of products should include all ingredients used to 'bulk-out' or carry flavouring in processed food. Some people might be genetically more sensitive to processed foods than others and should avoid them.
Colin Clark, Croxton, Norfolk, U.K.
Congratulations on exposing the ridiculous amounts of sugar now added to food.
Breast-milk is sweet but after infancy we can easily lose our 'sweet tooth' with a little effort and motivation.
Personally I have found many foods with added sugar totally unpalatable - cheese scones (Tesco's Finest), curry puffs (Julian Graves) and many tomato based past sauces to name but 3 examples. I now do not buy such products.
Tell the food industry - whether or not sugar is cheap, leave it out!
Jill Hoare, Teignmouth, Devon
All this sweet talk from the food manufacturers and supermarkets is not going to work because we are going to take their explanations with a pinch of salt.
Wing, Poole, UK