Alan Hamilton in Louisville, Kentucky
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It isn’t difficult to tell the difference between Royal Ascot and the Kentucky Derby, although behaviour in the Silver Ring at the former these days is beginning to blur the distinction.
At one they play the National Anthem, at the other the entire crowd belts out My Old Kentucky Home, ending with a sky-rending cheer. One has grass, the other dirt. One has a dress code of sorts, the other is a sartorial free-for-all. At the Berkshire meet they drink overpriced champagne; at Louisville the rank profiteering is by the itinerant vendors, trays around their necks like old-style cinema usherettes, doing big business in mint juleps at $9 (£4.50) a shot.
In the warmth of an English June you are unlikely to encounter a middle-aged man in pale blue seersucker saying to his red-trouser-suited wife: “You wanna snack, honey, you just go right ahead and holler.” To which honey’s instant response is a painful dilemma between a six-inch gourmet pretzel and a flame-grilled burger the size of a small cartwheel.
But the defining characteristic of Churchill Downs Race-course in Louisville is that it has no royal enclosure and certainly no royal box. When the Queen fulfilled the ambition of a lifetime on Saturday to watch the 133rd Kentucky Derby, the best known race in America, she found herself sharing her patch of balcony , known as Millionaire Row, with Ivana Trump, the President of Latvia and a well-dressed but unknown woman who had to be restrained by detectives from taking close-up pictures of the visiting monarch.
The Queen’s Praetorian Guard against a press of Dlist celebrities were William Farish, the former US Ambassador to London, and his wife Sarah, with whom she stayed over the weekend at their 1,800-acre farm and stud at Lexington. She has stayed with them privately four times before; royal and Farish horses interbreed regularly.
The Queen appeared interested in the race, but not unduly animated; she did not have one of her own horses running and it did not look as if she had visited a “wagering window”, which is what they call their version of the Tote. She watched a whisker over two minutes of heart-stopping excitement. Street Sense, the 9-2 favourite that was trailing 19th at the half-mile, stormed down the rails to win by 2½ lengths, netting his owner, a retired Chicago magazine publisher, a prize of $3 million (£1.5 million), which roughly equates to the purse for that other, older, derby in Surrey.
As Street Sense passed the winning post below her, the Queen consulted the programme held for her by the Duke of Edinburgh and pointed to the winning horse, locally trained, as have been 100 of the past 133 Derby winners. The last time a British horse made any showing at all was in 1986 when Bold Arrangement came second.
When the royal party first appeared on the balcony Mrs Farish offered binoculars but the Queen declined. This may have been just as well, as she might then have seen the infield. This is the area in the centre of the oval track that hosts an annual bacchanalia of drink, drugs and other riotous behaviour, but from where it is all but impossible to see the race because of the thick forest of beer and hot-dog marquees.
The Timesventured in before the big race, struggling to make progress through an obstacle course of beer bellies. “This ain’t about racing over here,” one man, wearing more tattoos than clothes, said. “This is about drinking beer.” It was said with great affability, even courtesy. It is another difference between Kentucky and Ascot; no one, not even the course stewards and the policemen, are anything but polite and helpful. Even the drunks don’t, on the whole, cause offence.
A royal visit to a thoroughly republican and egalitarian race meeting was the cause of much desire to catch a glimpse of a hereditary monarch, who did wonders for attendance figures. On Saturday 156,635 customers passed through the turnstiles, the third highest attendance.
The Queen may have been feeling a little glum at her lack of success on the turf recently. As monarch she ought to have won the Epsom Derby, but she never has. The last time she won a classic was in her Silver Jubilee year of 1977, when her horse Dunfermline carried off both the Oaks and the St Leger. Last year she came a poor 70th in the league table of British flat racing owners, with prize money of a mere £55,702 from 11 wins out of 93 entries.
The Kentucky Derby is, frankly, not a win that would suit the Queen. Would she really want to boast that one of her horses had won a race sponsored by Yum! Brands, parent company of Kentucky’s best known fast food? But hey, Ma’am, wouldn’t that just be finger-lickin’ good?
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Please get off your high horse, Mr. Hamilton. If you had been willing to open your mind to American traditions a little bit, you would have realized that you were not actually at some crass, redneck hootananny throwdown as you described in your article. By the way, there is grass at Churchill Downs (it was the big circle of green stuff in the middle of the course), and perhaps you should remember that Kentucky is the Bluegrass State. There is also a dresscode- perhaps not a written one, but it exists nonetheless. There are enough overpriced, audacious hats at Churchill Downs to make even Philip Treacy himself proud. Furthermore, perhaps we Southerners do speak a little differently- but, make no mistake, it is not because we are stupid- it is because we want to. So if you don't like our traditions, that is fine. But don't condemn us for holding certain traditions dear simply because you think your traditions are somehow morally and intellectually superior.
Shelley Wallace, Birmingham, Alabama
At least we can say we are still America. Britian is systematically losing it's own culture to outside forces that would rather have appeasement and entitlement, so to not offend certain religious, and ethnic ideaologies. Surely, you must have more tolerance and sensitivity than that, as in your own society.
mark, esquire, The UNITED States of America
As a Louisvillian, I am honored that Her Majesty and His Royal Highness visited us, and I hope that they had a wonderful time. I was crushed when I could not buy tickets because to have gotten a glimpse of the Royal couple would have delighted me.
The infield crowd is noted for it's rowdy behavior, and it's pretty much expected, however, I suspect that most of the questionalbe behavior was from out-of-towners, because Louisville's day at hte races was on Friday at the Oaks.
If the gentleman author would like to visit our city again, I am sure that he would enjoy it. (And personally, I agree with the sponsorship; I thought the same when VISA was involved.)
Madelyn, Louisville, KY, USA/KY
Dear Sir,
Please do not be jealous because you still have a monarchy; we are more intelligent than your article portrays. At the first, we understand that breeding and pedigree is best suited for animals, not humans. At another, we understand that egalitarian virtues allow all comers and should be championed not derided. You owe Kentucky an apology. Personally I hope you never come back. As for the queen, I hope she enjoyed herself, but I do not salute an isntitution that we defied over 200 years ago and that time has ultimately proven to be an obsolete vestige of tyrannical dictatorship and irrational thought.
Steven Wilson, louisville, ky
Oh dear. Brad, Bobbie, Gary: calm down a little!
It's a brilliant piece, equally rude about everyone, but pointing out the essential kindness and hospitality of Americans.
Christopher, Lewes, UK
Your article shows what Americans have always known, most Brits are snobs. Who informed you that you were above anyone? Born and raised in Louisville, Kentucky I need to inform you (apparently you haven't researched the city) that the infield does not represent the people of this large city. Churchill, I believe, is brilliant with the concept of the infield.. to have a place where the non-rich can feel comfortable to enjoy a special day in their city. I am aware bad behavior happens within the crowd, but it is mostly from young people who think this is yet another reason to get drunk and do stupid things that they will most certainly regret later in life.
Re: "no royal enclosure".. Why would we have a special enclosure for one day? If she desired a special enclosure or "box" do you not believe she would have asked for something beforehand? You also rank yourself high above the Queen by stating what YOU think would suit her with a win.
Vicki, Los Angeles, California
I would like to know who Mr. Hamilton would have prefered to be the primary sponsor of the Kentucky Derby, since Yum! Brands is so clearly insulting to his delicate British sensibilities.
I think what he is also forgetting is that HRH Queen Elizabeth II fulfilled her lifelong dream of attending the Derby. I doubt that it really made any difference to her that a fast food company was the primary sponsor.
Molly Schmidt, Salt Lake City , Utah, USA
While we Louisvillians are delighted the Queen was among the visitors the Derby attracted this year, you should know that the Derby itself isn't the day locals prefer to attend Churchill Downs.
Instead, we've always considered Oaks Day, the day before the Derby, our own "Derby." It features the Kentucky Oaks, a comparatively rich race for America's best three-year-old fillies, and much less insane behavior (particularly in the infield). Ladies still dress up and wear their best hats, however!
Sue Fomby, Louisville, KY
Given HM's run of rotten luck in the UK classics, she may want to consider seeing her silks carried in the US edition.
TJ Cassidy, Arlington, VA, USA
I think some of you are too sensitive. I think the author just means to point out the differences between America's best-known horse race and England's. If this were an article in an American paper about Ascot and how stuffy and formal it was, you'd be laughing along with it.
KH, Boston, MA
While we're delighted that the Queen attended Saturday's Derby, your reporter would probably have been much happier at the Kentucky Oaks, always held the day before the Derby.
The Oaks, which locals consider "our" Derby, features a comparatively rich (to Saturday's) field of America's best three-year-old fillies, more decorous behavior (no out-of-towners cavorting in the infield), and an equal number of ladies dressed up and wearing their best hats.
Sue Fomby, Louisville, Kentucky
I think the tone of the article may have been lost in translation as it crossed the Atlantic!!
Simon, London,
No one asked the Queen to attend the Kentucky Derby--she wanted to be there, Yum Brands or no Yum Brands as sponsor. While clearly this offends Alan Hamilton, he should really be taking the issue up with Buckingham Palace. Perhaps Allen can get Her Majesty back on the prim and proper track and make that crusade the subject of his next contribution.
David Ruppert, Arlington, Virginia, USA
I have a Californian wife. I hope that quashes accusations of racism.
I thought the article compared an American event very favourably with the English alternative. I am sure that many non-royalists would agree.
When an article in a UK newspaper very slightly criticises the USA the result is a good old bashing by rednecks.
One does wonder why we bother with such an imperialist and jingoistic nation.
No I don't want to live there. I don't like guns and rednecks give me the heebiegeebiies.
My Californian wife totally agrees - she doesn't want to live there either.
J D S, Cardiff, Wales UK
I would say that Mr. Hamilton doesn' t really give the Tradition and ways of Americans at these events. We like to hang loose and have fun! Who cares if it is sponsored by a Fast food corp. its not about that! Though i am glad the Queen had a good time!
Nicholas Rudolph, Kittery, Maine USA
The ugly American? This article is demonstration of the the ugly English!
Gary Johnson, Santa Barbara, California USA
Brits are always snide when it comes to America and Americans. But, oddly, most would live here (particularly in a lovely place like Santa Barbara) at the drop of a hat if they could. Even then they continue to diss us (I know this first hand) which becomes quite tiresome.
Gary Johnson, Santa Barbara, California USA
Mr. Hamilton obviously doesn't understand the charm and tradition of the Kentucky Derby. The Derby is an event for everyone not just those in the upper crust of society. I thought your comments about the event were catty to say the least. The Queen might have had a very nice time while in Kentucky. All of your comments about her and what she thought was at best a guess.
Bobbie, Beattyville, USA/ KY
Well, that was a bit elitist, wasn't it?
Brad, Mill Valley, CA USA
I have been looking all over the net for an insightful article about the Queen' s attendance of the 133rd Kentucky Derby. I was lucky to run into your sarcastic write-up written from the British point of view. Your piece really reveals the cultural differences between Churchill Downs and the Royal Ascot. It craked me up to find out how the two different cultures are displayed on the two racetracks although your first phrase on blurring infield behaviors is kind of comforting to us Americans.
Steve, Westminster, California
As a young lad growing up in the midwest of the United States I longed to go to Churchhill Downs for this storied event. Yesterday it finally happened and I must say I was somewhat impressed by the overselling of it all. Too think of the Queen waisting her courtley time on this circus is beyond me.
Local beer swelling yocos glistening with tatoes, 'ladies' who may or may not have been looking for after event business and as noted, the fast food vendors who appeared to have been granted weekend passes from the Kentucky State Prison.
The Masters it isnt but the Marti Gras of the North it is!
Bobby Mac, Scottsdale, Arizona