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Paddling in a dinghy across his potato field to inspect a tractor largely hidden below water, Rob Keene struggled to hide his exhaustion and anxiety.
“There’s just so much that’s happened,” he said. So much he’s lost.
Keene was working in that field 10 days ago, but the ground was wet after weeks of rain and his tractor kept getting stuck. He decided to leave it there and collect it after the earth dried a little. But on Friday, July 20, the heavens opened in earnest.
That day, at about 5pm, traffic passing nearby suddenly snarled up. Choking with water, many engines simply stopped working. So for four hours, Keene and his three sons used other farm machinery to drag cars off the road.
The Keenes supplied drinks to these passing strangers, and then food, and finally found themselves putting up several individuals for the night.
As torrential rain poured off higher ground, causing the river to swell further, he went out to rescue cattle from the fields nearest the water. He’d no sooner done that than the water was up to his knees.
Then a breach in the side of a potato field started to let through a wall of water 1ft deep. In seconds, the breach lengthened from 5ft to 250 yards. An unstoppable torrent raced in. The flood consumed the whole field and others beyond it.
In no time, all that was left visible of the tractor was its roof.
Altogether, 400 acres of his land were hit, destroying winter feed and Christmas trees. His most significant crop, potatoes, is virtually wiped out. It’s been hard to sleep at night.
The Keenes’ story was just one of many I heard as I travelled through Tewkesbury, Cheltenham, Stroud, Gloucester and Oxford last week - after the biggest summer flood anybody could remember.
It was like stepping into another world, described by at least one emergency services chief as essentially a war zone. Police cars seemed to be parked on every roundabout, blocking access to flooded roads.
Firefighters clustered around great pipes, pumping water from homes and streets back into rivers. Officials in fluorescent yellow jackets waded about with all the purpose and effect of King Canute.
The crisis had started upstream after the heavy rains caused two rivers, the Avon and the Severn, which come together at Tewkesbury, to burst their banks. But the flood did not unfold as you might expect.
In a large detached house half a mile from the rivers in Tewkesbury, Alan Berry, a 59-year-old engineering manager, and his wife Deanna noticed water seeping up through an air vent in his floor.
The house had never flooded before - but big new developments on the nearby flood plain were pushing waters from the swollen river into new areas. “The Severn and the Avon are both half a mile from where we live,” Deanna said. “The field opposite us used to be a flood base, but the owner was given permission to fill the land. I knew it would cause huge problems.”
Within hours the Berrys’ house was 4ft deep in water and two of their cars were nearly submerged.
Tewkesbury was soon entirely surrounded by flood-water, and a television reporter drolly described himself to residents as a visitor “from the mainland”.
When I ventured in, I had the strange experience - in this inland town - of passing Land Rovers marked Coast Guard. They drove slowly, negotiating a passage around abandoned vehicles still steamed up inside after days under water.
Trucks, vans and lorries shuttled about delivering water in bowsers - a word most people had never used before but now used a great deal, as they queued to fill buckets and bottles with the precious liquid they normally take so much for granted.
By Wednesday, there were 900 bowsers across Gloucestershire alone - and it wasn’t enough. People were grumbling about the water supply that, they knew, would not be restored for at least a week after contamination of the crucial Mythe treatment plant near Tewksbury.
Flooded residents were whispering about other people taking more than their fair share of water, and even that some bowsers had been vandalised - young citizens in Cheltenham reportedly contaminating water supplies by the admixture of urine or bleach.
In urban centres, the distribution of bottled water in super-market car parks had to be overseen by police. Andy Higgins, of Tesco in Stroud, explained: “It got a bit punchy in Gloucester.”
That’s not altogether surprising: some 340,000 people had no water, and not a few of these thirsty, unwashed individuals had queued for hours at bowsers only to watch them run dry before they could fill a single bottle.
In desperation some people went in search of alternative water supplies. Greg and Sue Dance in Stroud took me to a local spring in the hillside. The water needs boiling before you drink it - but then so does the water from bowsers.
Remarkably, however, the Dances didn’t complain. In fact, many of the people affected by floods and shortages refrained from complaints. “Who do I blame?” one man asked. “God?”
If Lady Luck was watching anywhere, it was at the Walham electricity substation on the outskirts of Gloucester. Officials from the National Grid initially had no idea how serious the threat of flooding was because they did not receive the Environment Agency’s flood warning.
As the waters rose, desperate efforts were made to install barriers around the substation that supplies power to 500,000 homes. The flood came within inches of causing a devastating power cut.
In Stroud, the volume of rain overwhelmed inadequate drainage systems - another factor in the scale of the floods. In Slad Road, where a culvert failed, the Lloyds pharmacy was inundated by black mud above the height of its cabinets, as was the Coop. The waters rose so fast that staff had no way to get out, and had to break through a fence at the back.
Across the road, floods consumed garages belonging to individuals such as Lionel Walround, a retired museum curator.
Archived documents and photographs from the 1800s were destroyed, he says, and his pristine Austin Metro was perfectly coated, inside and out, with an emulsion of muck and oil. Insurers have offered just £350 in compensation – but the wider cost is huge.
Since the floods - and those in Yorkshire last month - more than 50,000 people and businesses have already lodged insurance claims for flood damage, and the cost is estimated at £3 billion and rising fast.
Walround, 79, looked remarkably calm, but when I pointed that out he made a grinding motion with his hands.
“I feel like somebody has done this to my insides,” he said, though he offered that others had suffered worse.
They had. Samantha Jones, a pregnant mother, fell over in sewage that had backed up into her home; and she was carrying her toddler at the time.
“They’ve told us we’ve got to disinfect the whole place and ourselves,” she said. “The water’s horrible.”
By the end of the week the Health Protection Agency was warning that floodwaters mixed with sewage might contain dangerous bacteria such as cholera and E.coli. Another risk was Weil’s disease, an illness transmitted by rats - which were being flushed out of their nests by the floods - that can cause kidney and liver failure.
On the plus side, many observed that the floods had prompted an outpouring of community spirit. Adrian Rosser, whose garden in Botley filled with badgers flooded out of their sett, had gone to fetch sandbags and had been confronted by an intimidating group of hoodies - only to be asked by one cheerful yoof if they could help in any way.
The “Blitz spirit” cliché, though, had its limits. Pensioners and disabled people, gathered together in evacuation centres, milled about looking confused, not cheerful.
And Athene Reiss, from one of the two worst-affected streets in Oxford, told me that Duke Street already had a good community spirit, thank you very much, and didn’t need flooding to bring out the best in people.
Like many others, Reiss urgently wanted to show how housing developments on flood plains had caused homes such as hers, in older streets, to end up inundated.
She was waiting on a corner for the rumoured arrival of Hilary Benn, the environment secretary, who was on walkabout nearby. I wondered what she wanted to show him - perhaps the car parks of super-stores nearby sprawling over what had once been meadows.
That wasn’t what Reiss had in mind. Wading through Duke Street she gestured towards a new development of executive homes, none of them flooded.
“Yvette Cooper, the housing minister, might look at these and say, ‘Great! They didn’t flood, so you can build on flood plains!’ But that’s because they raised the level of the ground under the new houses - which meant that our road flooded instead.
“We’re not angry with the people who live there,” Reiss emphasised. “We’re angry with the developer, and we’re angry with the council for letting them build it.”
She never had the chance to show Benn what troubled her. After a brief peek round nearby Osney, the minister was whisked away elsewhere. As the waters persisted and more rain was forecast for this weekend, the dam of stoicism was in danger of breaking, unleashing a deluge of disillusion.
In Gloucester, John Russell, a lorry driver, and his wife Roz were among those worst affected. Their home in a Victorian terrace built near the banks of the river had flooded in 2000.
“We met Tony Blair in 2000,” Roz recalled, “and he personally promised us that there was money there for flood defences.”
It took a while for anything to be done, but eventually new defences were built. What protection did the authorities deliver? A 2ft-high brick wall was built across gardens running down to the river.
Last week the flood waters “oozed through the bricks like tissue paper”, said Russell, and then overwhelmed the wall.
“It took six years before anything happened and then little more than six months after they finished building the flood defences they proved useless. I was absolutely devastated.”
Additional reporting: Brendan Montague
Unlearnt lessons
Britain has a long history of floods - and of failing to act on the “lessons learnt”.
After severe flooding in 2000 the government declared the devastation “a wake up call” and John Prescott, then the environment secretary, told parliament: “We must take practical action now.”
Since then there have been 25 reports from parliamentary committees and official bodies on how to reduce risks. Little has been done.
The government decided there should be clearer organisation of flood defence. But it failed to create a body with central control, instead leaving flood protection measures to local committees while drainage was overseen by a hotchpotch of local authorities, agricultural drainage boards, the Highways Agency and water utilities.
Two years ago the government finally gave the Environment Agency (EA) national control of flood defence planning and expenditure. Only now does the EA believe it is getting sufficient powers and funding to perform the role properly.
Management of drainage schemes remains scattered among numerous bodies. A government review, started before the most recent floods, is expected to recommend that the EA takes over this function too.
However, some experts believe the EA’s remit - which covers “protecting and improving the environment” - is now too broad to be effective. Dieter Helm, professor of energy policy at Oxford University, said last week: “Flood defence is now sufficiently serious to require its own Flood Defence and Management Agency.”
The government declared after the 2000 flooding that there should be a significant increase in funding for flood defence. Though funding did rise, more recently it was cut again. Last year a cut in the EA budget of £14m prompted cuts in flood defence plans.
A recently leaked memo from the government’s spending review shows that before Gordon Brown became PM he was planning to cut millions from the EA’s flood defence budget later this year.
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