Jack Grimston
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A TEXTILE company at the centre of a row over “slave labour” is supplying clothes to at least three high-street chains in Britain.
Last month The Sunday Times revealed the low pay and long working hours of staff at Compagnie Mauricienne de Textile (CMT), based in Mauritius, which supplies clothes for brands, including Topman, controlled by Sir Philip Green, the Monaco-based billionaire.
It has now emerged that CMT also makes garments for Next and for George, the Asda super-market chain’s range of budget clothing.
Wages at the firm are as low as £70 a month for Bangladeshi employees, while those from Sri Lanka are paid about £100. Staff work for up to 70 hours a week.
The average wage in Mauritius is about £200 a month.
“Companies [in countries like Mauritius] are unable to attract local labour . . . Many migrant workers in these garment factories are like slaves,” said Neil Kearney of the International Textile, Garment and Leather Workers Federation.
The emergence of cheap manufacturing locations has been a key factor in the boom in bargain clothing for British shoppers. But the concerns over CMT have highlighted an opaque area of the international labour market - the migration of low-cost workers between countries in the developing world.
Textile workers are often lured to Mauritius by recruitment agencies who tour towns in Bangladesh and Sri Lanka promising high wages. For a fee of up to £725, agencies fly the recruits to Mauritius and arrange a job lasting three years.
Some workers, however, have complained that the wages they are promised are far higher than what they receive in Mauritius. In one example from a union official, a textile worker was told she would be paid about £400 a month, but received only £100.
British retailers commission audits of their suppliers in developing countries that are supposed to ensure that the drive for low prices in shops does not endanger workers’ welfare.
Asda, Next and Arcadia, the parent company of Topman, have all commissioned regular inspections of CMT, most of which have found little cause for concern. All the retailers have taken the allegations in last month’s articles seriously and have launched investigations.
Next has begun inquiring “into the practices of third-party recruitment agencies”, which a senior source at the company acknowledged were “an opaque business”.
Asda, owned by Wal-Mart, the American retail giant, has questioned CMT closely about its practices since last month’s revelations in The Sunday Times.
The chain, for which Andrew Flintoff, the England cricketer, models the George range, is confident that CMT is a high-quality company, but a spokesman said: “The issue looks like it has been with regard to the particular agency [CMT] have been using in terms of recruiting workers.”
He added that CMT was taking steps to ensure that potential recruits were given detailed, accurate information about what their jobs would entail. “There will be clarity in terms of how much salary and things like that are being paid.
“I think what [The Sunday Times] discovered is that there wasn’t,” he said.
Asda, Next, Arcadia and CMT all denied that the workers were underpaid, adding that the wage levels complied with laws in Mauritius and with their own codes.
François Woo, managing director of CMT, went further. “Our expatriate workforce draws a package which is higher than the local average,” he said. “Furthermore, our expatriate workforce is provided with free accommodation, transport and food of good quality.” Woo valued these fringe benefits at £80 a month for each expatriate worker.
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Those responsible for the slaves trade in Mauritius should be thoroughly ashamed of themselves particulary as their own ancestors suffered from slavery. In a country where poverty is masked by the beautiful beaches and top class hotels, the Mauritian government should intervene and stop the importation and exploitation of people form Shrilanka and China and other poor countries, but instead provide a decent living wage to its own people and bring down unemployment. However, in a country where corruption is rife and a way of life, it's perhaps too much to expect. But those who enjoy shopping for bargains clothing in supermarkets and other oulets can do something abouth this disgusting affair, think of those unfortunate people who are slaving nights and days to provide you with the so called bargains.
Richard, London, UK
Richard B, London, UK
What is the problem if the companies are complying with legislation? If Asda is acting in accordance with labour legislation, what is the problem? I would support action against Asda if they were actively involved in not paying workers the wages they were promised, but otherwise, I can't see the problem. Furthermore, British consumers pay such extortionate prices for everything. House prices as through the roof, food prices are starting to skyrocket, council tax has been increasing for several years etc. If everyone else is ripping us off, it is nice that Asda is helping the poorer members of British society by offering cheap clothes.
Graeme Phillips, Midsomer Norton, UK
Next and Asda also pay low wages so what does anyone expect?
Judy , Liverpool, england
I can understand how (although I don't agree with it) companies like asda use these sorts of places as they could not afford to sell their goods at the prices they do otherwise. But Next? Their prices are not cheap (well nowher near as cheap as Asda!). So it would seem that Next is not only ripping off the workers but also the public!
kim, London, England
Do you think for one minute that if the shoe was on the other foot things would change? I dont think so .its called business ,im sorry but thats life we make products cheap to sell cheap. but that is how things work .we had workers working down mines in britain for a meal each day to make people rich a hundred years ago .in a few years things will change in these countries.
Ace , manchester, uk
Is anyone surprised? Cheap clothes can only happen if there is cheap labour. We wouldn't want to work in these conditions and for these wages so why should we accept that others must so that we can have a pair of jeans for £5?
Keith Lawson, Poole, UK