Martin Fletcher
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In the spring sunshine Sark looks sublime. The stone cottages of its 600 inhabitants look out across headlands resplendent in yellow gorse to a deep blue sea. Lambs frolic in lush green meadows. The paths are flanked by banks of wild flowers. The peace is disturbed only by the odd tractor or horse-drawn cart trundling along the unpaved lanes of this tiny car-free island that the Victorian poet Algernon Charles Swinburne called a “small sweet world of wave-encompassed wonder”.
How appearances deceive. Sark today is anything but serene. It has been rent asunder by a conflict between two billionaire newspaper magnates who want to democratise the island and are used to getting their own way, and supporters of the island’s feudal old guard, who fear that the Sark they love is being swept away. The dispute has set neighbour against neighbour and destroyed the sense of community that was once the island’s hallmark. “I’ve lived here 30 years and never known the mood so bitter and rancorous,” says Paul Armorgie, a hotelier and member of Sark’s parliament, the Chief Pleas.
The postman has delivered ump-teen lawyers’ letters accusing the recipients of defamation, gross misrepresentation and other sins. A monthly “newspaper” with a mystery editor savages Sark’s leading citizens. The new island hall has been asked to return a £100,000 donation.
Many Sarkees no longer dare openly to speak their mind. “I would ask that you excuse my anonymity as livelihoods can be ruined by lifting one’s head above the parapet,” said a typical e-mail sent to The Times. Another wished The Times luck “in trying to understand . . . the malice and hostility rife on an island where one would expect people to be enjoying a good life”.
At the heart of this maelstrom are Sir David and Sir Frederick Barclay, the owners of the Ritz Hotel andTelegraph newspapers, who live in the mock-Gothic castle they built on Brecqhou, an even tinier island that is separated from Sark by a few yards of churning water but falls under its jurisdiction.
Supporters of the reclusive 73-year-old twins insist that they are fighting to liberate Sark from the oppressive feudal regime that has governed it for the past 450 years, and are generously pumping millions of pounds into the island to revive its sagging economy. “They are two good, old-fashioned gentlemen in their conduct and business dealings who have the island’s welfare at heart,” says Kevin Delaney, an Essex man who manages their interests in Sark.
To other Sarkees, however, the Barclays are tycoons who brook no opposition and are using their vast wealth to take over Sark. “They are two powerful men who will stop at nothing to gain control of the island,” says Peter Stisted, a retired farm manager from Somerset who is one of their most vocal critics.
The Barclays’ battle with Europe’s last feudal regime started almost the moment that they bought Brecqhou in 1993. They were forced to pay a “treizième” of £179,000 – a thirteenth of the purchase price – to the Seigneur of Sark whose distant predecessor, Helier de Carteret, was granted the right to the island in perpetuity by Elizabeth I in 1565.
They also found themselves bound by a law of primogeniture obliging them to bequeath Brecqhou to the elder brother’s eldest son. “The more Sir David and Sir Frederick found out about it the less they like feudalism,” said Jennifer McDermott, their London lawyer. They decided to fight for “modern, transparent, open democracy”.
The Barclays took Sark to the European Court of Human Rights. The island backed down on primogeniture, but the genie was out of the bottle. The island and its Whitehall overseers realised that the feudal system breached the European Convention in numerous ways. Sark’s “serfs” were hardly clamouring for change, but the Barclays embarked on a long campaign to turn Sark into a democracy.
In London last week the Privy Council finally approved a Bill that will see a Chief Pleas of landowners replaced by a 28-member assembly elected by universal suffrage in December. The Barclays were still not happy, however. They immediately requested a judicial review because the Seigneur and the unelected Seneschal – the Chief Pleas president who doubles as the island’s judge – will retain considerable powers.
The Seigneur is Michael Beaumont, 80, an amiable and slightly bumbling former aircraft engineer who inherited the title in 1974. The Seneschal – appointed by Mr Beaumont – is Lieutenant-Colonel Reg Guille, 66, a native Sarkee and ramrod-stiff ex-soldier who was appointed MBE after the Falklands War. These improbable “despots” both argue that Sark wanted the minimum change necessary to comply with the European Convention on Human Rights, and that the new Chief Pleas, not the Barclays, should decide whether to curtail their powers.
The Barclays disagree. Their spokesmen contend that the Seigneur and Seneschal could easily manipulate an inexperienced new assembly, and that islanders with few statutory protections fear openly to criticise their feudal masters lest they lose their homes or jobs. “A cosy, self-serving inner circle largely dominates the island. If you play by its rules, fine. If you resist it generally you are ostracised,” Mr Delaney says.
Last year, in the midst of the acrimonious constitutional debate, the Barclays suddenly started buying up large swaths of Sark. They or their representatives now own nearly 20 per cent of the island’s land, three hotels, two restaurants, a pub, a building company, an estate agency and a bicycle rental business.
They are spending £300,000 a month on a huge reburbishment programme and have created nearly 100 jobs on an island where round-the-year employment is scarce. They have opened a crèche, deli, beauty parlour, photo gallery and bookshop. They plan to supply their hotels and restaurants with organic fruit, meat and vegetables produced in Sark.
They have unquestionably boosted the island’s fragile economy and smartened the place up, though some residents lament the passing of Sark’s quirky backwardness. “It’s as if they are telling Sark people what’s good for them,” said Christine Audrain, 57, a gift shop owner.
Mr Delaney says the Barclays “have a tremendous affection for the Channel Islands and want to see Sark flourish”. But the Barclays’ critics are suspicious of their motives. They fear the twins are not only gaining economic dominance over the island but also creating a small army of islanders who depend on them for their livelihoods, and this could influence the voting come December’s elections. They also fear that deputies employed by the Barclays may put the twins’ interests before Sark’s. “It’s a concern felt by many people on the island,” said Mr Beaumont, the Seigneur. Mr Delaney says the idea that an employer can tell employees how to vote is “ridiculous”.
Whatever the truth, the Barclays – despite their munificence – have not exactly won the island’s gratitude and affection. “From a PR point of view they’ve scored own goals at every turn,” said Mr Armorgie.
They did give 70 islanders tea on Brecqhou last August, but seldom set foot on Sark and have never taken their landowners’ seats in Chief Pleas. At two meetings they have had lawyers from London and Guernsey take their place, using a rule allowing them to nominate substitutes on production of a medical certificate saying they are sick. Outraged deputies sought to have the lawyers excluded. Mr Delaney said the Barclays’ investment in the island would end if that happened – “How can you carry on investing in the island if you are denied representation in its government?” The vote was lost.
The Barclays have won some grovelling apologies after threatening their critics with legal action. But their opponents question Ms McDermott’s assertion that they act only in cases of serious defamation.
Jennifer Cochrane, 72, a former zoologist who produces the island newsletter from her cluttered living room, was threatened with court proceedings unless she surrendered a photograph she took of the Barclays chatting to islanders in a lane. Miss Cochrane said: “It was completely over the top.” Gordon Dawes, the Barclays’ Guernsey lawyer, said that she had been told not to take their picture.
An astonished Sandra Williams, a Barclay critic who runs the island hall’s bar, received a letter from Mr Dawes for failing immediately to remove a poem someone pinned to a noticeboard. It read:
Barclay, Donnelly and Dawes
Are kicking our customs and laws.
This ‘Triad of Spite’
– Good manners take flight –
Is battering Sark without pause.
So come! Let’s unite!
Let’s arm and let’s fight
These purveyors of sh***
Called Barclay, Donnelly and Dawes.
Mr Dawes told The Times that the poem had to be seen in the wider context of a sustained, malicious campaign against the Barclays.
Mrs Williams said: “The Barclays used the threat of legal action to silence their critics, knowing they can’t afford to defend themselves.” Stephen Henry, 73, a retired GP from Wiltshire, received a Dawes letter demanding to know if he wrote an anonymous attack on the Barclays posted on a Sark website. He had apologised for an earlier criticism of the Barclays, but this time was innocent. “I was very upset indeed. It set me back a week or two,” said Dr Henry, who had just been discharged from hospital after having a cancerous lung removed. Mr Dawes, who was unaware of Dr Henry’s illness, subsequently apologised.
While the Barclays vigorously protect their privacy and reputations they also financeSark News, a monthly publication delivered to every home, which pillories the Seigneur, Seneschal and anyone else associated with a “deeply undemocratic, self-interested and self-serving regime”. One edition offered three £1,000 prizes for a quiz on the Seigneur’s feudal powers. Even Ms McDermott admits it can be “searing” and “quite abrasive”.
Sark Newslists a Mrs S. Oliver as its editor, but the islanders have no idea who she is. In response to e-mailed questions she said that she was too busy to meet The Times. She refused to say where she was based or whether she ever visited Sark, but defended her right to be “forthright” in countering the “propaganda” of Miss Cochrane’s newsletter.
A group of islanders are preparing a complaint to the Press Complaints Commission, describing Sark News as “malicious in tone, inaccurate in its facts, unbalanced in its opinions and actionable in what it publishes”.
The Barclays have angered islanders in other ways. They have just demanded the return of a £100,000 donation they made to the new hall in 2001 because of the “naked commercialism” of its bar and off-licence. The Barclays – who must know a thing or two about commercialism – say that this is a breach of their stipulation that the premises be used “wholly and unconditionally for charitable purposes”. After inquiries by The Times their lawyers sent this newspaper a fax yesterday saying that they were seeking to settle the issue “amicably”.
The Barclays structured their property purchases to avoid paying Mr Beaumont his treizième, which they considered an unlawful feudal due. They stuck to that position when Mr Beaumont – lacking the resources to challenge the Barclays in court – transferred his right to the treizième to the Chief Pleas in return for an annual stipend of £28,000. The Chief Pleas is now replacing the treizième with a new property tax to close the legal loophole used by the Barclays.
The Barclays have also challenged the Sark Shipping Company’s de facto monopoly on the Guernsey-Sark ferry route, which it is allowed to keep it viable. The company is ultimately owned by the islanders and provides their lifeline to the outside world, but Mr Delaney said the Barclays considered it overpriced, ill-managed and financially unstable.
Last autumn Mr Delaney used the Barclays’ boat to import a generator for the refurbishment programme on Sark. An islander reported him. Sark’s authorities passed the complaint to Guernsey police, who summoned him for questioning. Mr Delaney said that conduct was so outrageous that he told his workforce he was considering closing down the programme.
In the event Guernsey police dropped the case and Mr Delaney continues to import building materials. “The Barclays have a perfect right to use their own vessel to carry their own building material for their own building projects,” said Mr Dawes.
That leaves the shipping company – which operates on a shoestring – facing a dilemma. Does it test the legitimacy of the Barclays’ actions in court, knowing that defeat could result in bankruptcy, or continue to let the Barclays import freight in their own vessel, denying itself a vital source of income?
Ms McDermott calls Sark’s hostility to the Barclays “surprising when you think what they’ve done for the island. They’ve brought it a democratic assembly, put paid to a tax that went straight into the Seigneur’s pocket, helped the island’s women by ending primogeniture, and supported its working people by boosting the economy”.
But the feuding continues. The Barclays have offered to build Sark an all-weather helipad on a patch of clifftop scrubland so – they say – their private helicopter can evacuate islanders in medical emergencies. Prominent Chief Pleas members insist that the playing field works fine and suspect that the Barclays want a helipad so they can hop over to inspect their properties, disturbing the island’s peace and frightening its horses.
On Sark, alas, there is virtually no trust – and little peace – left.
Island culture
— Sark is the smallest of the four main Channel Islands. It has its own legislature, judicial system and administration, but Westminster is responsible for defence and law and order
— The island is controlled by a hereditary Seigneur. He must maintain an army of 40 men and is the only islander allowed to keep pigeons
— Sark has no mains water, mains drainage or metalled roads. A person has to be resident for 15 years before building a new house
Source: Sark Tourism; agencies; Times archives
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