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Checks carried out last week by The Sunday Times on organic meat, milk, soup, mayonnaise, chocolate and breakfast cereals showed they had higher levels of fat and some had higher salt content than conventionally produced counterparts.
Many consumers are ready to pay a premium for what they see as the health benefits of organic food at supermarkets.
Organic food is produced without the chemical fertilisers and pesticides used in conventional food production. There may be a downside, however.
The label on a pot of Sainsbury’s organic Greek-style yoghurt showed it contained more than three times more saturated fat than the regular alternative — despite having a 53% higher price tag. Tesco’s organic pork mince contained twice as much salt and 27% more fat; its mayonnaise had 50% more saturated fat. Organic milk had 10% more fat and cost almost 20% more.
The news has concerned consumer groups. The supermarkets said last week that the higher levels were because of “different recipes” used for organic goods.
A spokesman for Which?, formerly the Consumers’ Association, said: “We are disappointed that some organic foods are being found to contain high levels of fat or salt because people look to organic food to be healthier. We have been putting pressure on manufacturers to reduce the amount of fat, salt and sugar in their products, especially processed foods.”
The Food Commission, an independent group that backs healthier eating, urged consumers to check the labels on products. Kath Dalmeny, its policy officer, said: “Lots of the supermarkets have gone down the mass market route, which is more about the organic standards of food production than its nutritional quality.”
The higher levels of fat and sugar in organic food are the latest surprising trend in supermarket products. It had already been discovered that some bread contained more fat than chocolate bars and that products in British shops contained more fat than identical products sold abroad. The government is drawing up a bill that is expected to require food manufacturers to introduce clearer labelling.
The value of the organic food market has risen dramatically. Sales have almost trebled over the past five years, from less than £400m in 1998 to £1.2 billion this year. By 2007 the value of the market is expected to reach £1.6 billion.
The Soil Association, which regulates most of the organic market, welcomed the disclosure of the fat and salt levels.
“There is a risk that in the rush to roll out organic food at ‘competitive’ prices, standards are being compromised,” said Patrick Holden, the association’s director.
There was no difference found in the organic and nonorganic ranges sold in Morrisons and Somerfield. The fat and salt levels in many own-brand products contrasted with those of well known brands. Heinz organic ketchup and baked beans contained the same amount of fat and salt as the non-organic alternatives. Warburtons wholemeal bread and Hovis white bread flour had less fat and the same amount of salt as non-organic versions.
Yesterday Asda said: “We are investigating this discrepancy. There should not be any difference.”
Sainsbury’s added: “The comparable standard and organic products tested are made using different recipes so inevitably the nutritional values do vary slightly.”
Tesco said an organic label provided no guarantee that the food was healthier: “We have never positioned our organic brand as being a healthy product. Our customers understand it relates to a production method. The difference in salt and fat levels is due to the different recipes we use.”
Additional reporting: Holly Watt, Andrew White
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