THONG sales have collapsed by nearly 20% in the past year, signalling a backlash against a symbol of “chav” culture.

The underwear was appropriated by mainstream fashion from its strip club origins. It made its way into women’s wardrobes after being flaunted by celebrities such as Victoria Beckham and Sophie Anderton.

Now, however, retail industry data indicate that sales nationally have fallen by 17% in one year. At some retailers the fall is even sharper: Harvey Nichols, the department store chain, sold 43% fewer thongs in April to June this year compared with 2004.

Fashion experts believe the thong is being rejected because women are looking for more comfortable and less revealing alternatives, such as cut-off “boy shorts”. It is part of a move away from overtly sexual clothing such as push-up bras, crop tops and low-cut jeans.

Doubts are even afflicting the most ardent champions of the thong, which consists of a small triangle of material at the front and a narrow strip reaching round to the waistband at the back, revealing the buttocks. Jodie Marsh, the model and reality TV star who has often been branded as a chav herself, agreed that despite her collection of more than 500 thongs, fashions were changing. “Showing your thong is a bit old now,” she said. “I’d rather have big knickers showing over the top of my jeans.”

Marsh, 26, is a member of one of the few age groups among whom sales of thongs have not fallen, according to the figures from TNS Fashion Trak, a market research company. For 25 to 34-year-olds sales are holding up, but for younger women other fashions have taken over. Similarly, older buyers have decided that the revealing lingerie may not be the most flattering.

Trinny Woodall, co- presenter of BBC1’s What Not To Wear, described women who wore thongs outside their trousers as “disgusting”. She said: “Older women have shied away from them because they have found alternatives. Maybe their bums are sagging a bit and they don’t want to see it when they take off their clothes.”

The thong used to be associated with dancing girls, Brazilian “beach babes” and questionable romantic gifts. In 1997, however, it won fashion respectability when a Gucci model wore one on the catwalk.

Soon afterwards Melanie Blatt, a singer with All Saints, was photographed flashing her thong as she got out of a taxi and Beckham disclosed that her husband enjoyed wearing her G-strings from time to time.

The underwear quickly caught on. The trend for showing them above the waistband was so popular that head teachers had to ban them. Even in France, traditionally seen as more liberal than Britain, the fashion for le string among young girls led to the banning of some G-string adverts.

At the height of the craze, towards the end of 2003, thongs accounted for 31% of the women’s underwear market. That figure has fallen to 23%.

Now, however, the thong’s association with “tabloid” celebrities has tarnished its image. In addition they are seen by growing numbers of women as unsexy and uncomfortable.

Peter York, the social commentator, said: “The string rose in tune with showing your belly. It was very much a thing of the past 10 years where women would wear low-cut jeans, crop tops and a visible thong. However brave men were about it, I think they were deeply shocked. It’s one thing to see Brazilian lovelies on beaches, but when full-bodied Tracy next door has a visible thong it’s really a bit too much information.”

Angela Buttolph, presenter of BBC TV’s forthcoming A Week of Dressing Dangerously, added: “You do associate them with Britney past her prime, Jordan and Paris Hilton, none of whom is particularly classy.”

The change in fashion was marked earlier this year by Elle Macpherson, 41, the Australian model, who launched her “afterwear”. She said: “G-strings are uncomfortable. Girls want real knickers now.”

Figures from Gossard, the underwear manufacturer, show that sales of tight “boy shorts” that cover the buttocks have risen by 172% in the past five years.

Sophie Anderton, the model at the forefront of Gossard’s G- string campaign in the 1990s, said she remained a devotee of the thong and kept her more comfortable knickers hidden at the back of her cupboard.

“The only time I would wear them is if my boyfriend wasn’t around,” she said.

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