On the rare occasion this foodie has the exciting prospect of booking a table à deux for a hot date, the temptation to dine in a bustling city centre, overpriced, happening joint can be too irresistible. De-mothballing the cocktail frock and then spending the evening gazing into each other’s eyes (with the sole intention of making the waiting staff nauseous) is my idea of a good night out.

Last Saturday’s Hot Date knows my reputation as an uptown party girl, so he was somewhat miffed when I instructed our taxi to deposit us on murky St Leonards Street on Edinburgh’s southside. “The police station’s just across the road,” I informed him. “So as much as a hand on my knee under the table and it’ll be handcuffs before you can say, ‘Two espressos and the bill’.”

On a gloomy November night however, thoughts of a sunnier climate should help set the right mood. Calistoga aims to provide a taste of America’s West Coast. Named after a town in California (where, incidentally, Robert Louis Stevenson used to live) this restaurant features flavoursome, clean-living food with an impressive list of Californian wine.

It’s unfair, I know, but I always imagine out-of-the-way restaurants to be empty or lacking the atmosphere enjoyed by those in the city centre. However, I was pleasantly surprised at Calistoga. There was no speaking in hushed tones at this compact dining room full of chatty, laughing customers.

I liked it. And I liked the owner as well. Gordon Minnis made his name as the manager of Jacksons on Edinburgh’s High Street and his general demeanour remains reassuringly unchanged. Upon asking for two glasses of Californian fizz to kick off the proceedings, he inquired: “And what will the gentleman be having?” He must remember me.

Our Carneros aperitifs proved to be full bodied and creamy. We were presented with yummy home-made root vegetable crisps that I could have easily wolfed down by myself, had I not felt obliged to share them with Hot Date. I was also impressed with the Napa Valley Mondavi, for which I would like to take the credit, but I let Minnis, the wine expert, choose for us.

Although my sole intention and natural instinct was to get my date drunk, we were feeling rather peckish. The menu was a good fusion mix of oriental and South American influence, so choosing proved a challenge. We both opted for a salad to start. Hot Date chose well with chargrilled asparagus and parma ham which, with its drizzle of aioli, was a fine combination of texture and smoky flavour. My pil pil prawn salad with guacamole goulash was a light, shrimpy delight.

On to the mains. A roast chestnut crusted salmon circle was perfectly cooked, tasty and fresh. The “sweet potato tangle” and citrus dressing, accompanying the generous slab of fish, were a perfect combination. My companion opted for the red roasted pork fillet with rocket mash and gazpacho salsa. The meat was well cooked and succulent, yet it was the only disappointment — pork will never set the world alight as a restaurant dish.

So far so good, but what of dessert? Most restaurants let themselves down here, as chefs tend to prefer shaking pans and setting fire to the kitchen to perfecting an elegant crème brulée.

The sweet menu proved otherwise. We shared a scarlet meringue with raspberry coulis and an organic chocolate mousse that were both marvellous. This was the best chocolate mousse I have ever had in a restaurant; so light and yet so rich.

Edinburgh is a highly competitive market when it comes to restaurants and Minnis is a brave boy to throw his cap into the ring, especially without a prime location to attract the diners. However, he has successfully created a restaurant that offers something different. He has also found Seanan Doherty, a chef who has formulated a menu that more than rivals those of its often overpriced city-centre competition.

Calistoga has only been trading since its rushed August opening and has done well to maintain high standards throughout the first few difficult months. Now it’s bedded down, however, a little bit of attention to the interior design may well reap further rewards from the paying public.

Calistoga, 93 St Leonards Street, Edinburgh, 0131 668 4207. Dinner for two with wine £85

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