Consumption by British households of Scottish farmed salmon has risen by 22 per cent over the past two years. The increase, which represents an additional 40 million meals, is a boost for an industry that has fought criticism by marine environmentalists.

Consumers seem increasingly won over by the health arguments in favour of oily fish. Scottish aquaculture, valued in excess of £400million in 2006, is now second only to the beef sector (£467million) and ahead of the sheep, pig and commercial fishing sectors.

The renaissance of the Scottish industry, which is the third biggest salmon producer in the world, is also heralded by the Scottish government's consultation document, A Fresh Start, on a renewed strategy for fish farming. Ministers say they intend to create an industry that is “ambitious, thriving, growing, diverse and profitable”.

In 1980 only 9 per cent of fish consumed came from aquaculture. Now it is 43 per cent. A report in 2006 by the UN Food and Agriculture Organisation said that aquaculture is the only way to meet the surging demand for seafood, and fish in general has been the fastest growing protein in the UK over the past eight years, up 64 per cent in spend.

The research showed people aged 35 to 64 were leading the move to salmon at the evening meal.

The annual survey of Scottish salmon production, published by the Scottish government agency Fisheries Research Services this week, anticipates modest growth, from 129,930 tonnes in 2007 to approximately 136,000 tonnes in 2008.

Scott Landsburgh, the new chief executive of the Scottish Salmon Producers' Organisation, said: “We will continue to work with government to deliver our joint aspirations for economic, social and environmental sustainability.”

Mark Thomson, from TNS Worldpanel, said: “One of the key priorities in the current economic climate is health. The popularity of fresh salmon continues to leap as its health benefits are increasingly recognised.”

According to the Scottish Salmon Producers' Organisation, salmon farming supports 6,200 full and part-time jobs in remote, rural areas on the west coast and islands. The industry injects in excess of £197 million a year into Scottish businesses and salmon represents 40 per cent of all Scottish food exports.

The industry has been accused of polluting the sea bed and spreading disease.

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