Don’t be put off by the corporate exterior: All Bar One is a reliable choice for a reviving mid-shopping salad or plate of pasta. There is nothing revolutionary going on in these city-centre drinkeries, just surprisingly good sandwiches, soups, platters of munchy bits and a number of more substantial main courses. The rocket is fresh and crunchy, the salad dressings slick with good oil, the pine nuts sprinkled with a generous hand. Cleverly designed to welcome the ladies (there’s a reason it has been dubbed All Bar Men), this is an ideal spot for lunch and a glass of one of the many wines on offer.

No 27, 27 Castle Street, Inverness, 01463 241 999

Where do you go when the chef’s table at Abstract, as seen on Ramsay’s Kitchen Nightmares, is fully booked? Locals suggest No 27, and both The Good Food Guide and The Good Pub Guide agree. The location, in the shadow of the castle, is picturesque and the food offers a fresh and cheerful take on pub grub staples, all designed to accompany the interesting selection of local and imported beers. For the patriot, Red Kite or Yellowhammer, organically produced by the Black Isle Brewery, is a must-sup.

Wheatsheaf restaurant, Swinton, Berwickshire, 01890 860 257

The social hub of an award-winning hotel, Chris and Jan Winson’s cosy restaurant throws down the gauntlet when it comes to home cooking and fireside charm. Popular with hardy fisherman, locals and passing tourists, it’s a mere cast of a line from the River Tweed. The head chef, John Keir, sources his seafood from Eyemouth harbour and his menu may feature wild salmon, venison, partridge, pheasant, woodcock and duck dishes. As might be expected, the seafood is superb and regulars swear by his fish and chips.

Times Recommends

• Donor organ allowed child’s own heart to heal
• Michael Jackson: Not the final chapter
• Sacha Baron Cohen forced to tone down Brüno