Catherine Philp in Beitbridge
2 for 1 tickets to Casablanca, this coming Monday

The road to the border runs through what was once prime fruit-growing land, through the bush where vast herds of cattle grazed, down to the frontier where lorries thundered through, piled high with the fat of Zimbabwe’s land, for export to a hungry Africa.
Now the only lorries are empty fuel tankers, heading to South Africa to fill up with the petrol that few back home will be able to afford. Cars trundle across on weekly shopping trips, bringing back the basic foodstuffs that Zimbabwe once exported in abundance. And off the road, where crocodile-infested streams run through a bush patrolled by armed border guards, another desperate soul tries to cross, joining four million Zimbabweans in exile in search of earnings to send back to their hungry families.
This is where, last month, Robert Mugabe, Zimbabwe’s hero of independence and its only leader in the nearly three decades since, began his campaign to be reelected for the next five years. It was his 84th birthday. President Mugabe has ruled this country for so long that his presence seems an inescapable reality, an unchanging part of a changing landscape.
This time, however, for the first time since independence, his victory is no longer a given. In today’s election, Comrade Mugabe, Uncle Bob, or simply the “old man”, faces the toughest battle of his political life. “He was the hero of the liberation struggle, just as he says,” Philip Chiro, a bricklayer and former Mugabe supporter, said. “But now our struggle is simply to survive and if he does not go, I believe Zimbabwe will die.”
Mr Chiro had come to the stadium in Bulawayo to see one of Mr Mugabe’s biggest challengers. Not Morgan Tsvangirai, the long-time opposition leader, who has battled the regime for a decade, but Simba Makoni, the former Finance Minister and senior member of the Zanu (PF) politburo, who was spectacularly flung out of the party last month when he broke ranks and offered himself up as a candidate against Mr Mugabe.
“Until then, the election was dead in the water,” said David Coltart, the MP for Bulawayo South, and a leading member of Mr Tsvangirai’s Movement for Democratic Change until the party split two years ago. The schism cast a pall of gloom over the opposition, already downcast over Mr Mugabe’s blatant theft of the 2002 and 2005 elections, which was ignored by Zimbabwe’s neighbours, reluctant to turn on a hero of black liberation.
Mr Makoni’s emergence threw up new, previously unthinkable scenarios. He is known to have the tacit allegiance of much of the intelligence and security apparatus, the very people Mr Mugabe has relied on to steal votes for him in the past. What if the rigging, instead of returning the President, were to go in favour of his renegade former minister? What if others from the ruling party defected to his side at the ballot box. What if, rather than splitting the opposition vote, he took it from the ruling party itself? And so to the next, daring thought: what if this were the end of the road for Mr Mugabe?
The Mr Mugabe that Mr Chiro remembers was a hero once. When he stood beside the Prince of Wales in 1980 as the old Rhodesian flag was lowered and the new Zimbabwean standard was raised, the new leader vowed that blacks and whites would stand together and leave the brutal past behind to build a nation together. But within two years, he had turned on his own people, launching the Gukurahundi, or “the rain that washes away the chaff”, a series of massacres against supporters of the Zapu party, which had fought alongside Zanu (PF) in the war against white rule. The Government claimed that only 400 dissidents died, but 20,000 people were killed across Matabeleland in the west of the country. Bulawayo is its main city.
Hundreds of schools and hospitals were built elsewhere during that decade, and into the Nineties, as Zimbabwe prospered. Dumiso Dabengwa, the former Zapu intelligence chief, served as Mr Mugabe’s Home Minister during that period, despite having served time in prison for treason. He remembers a committed and conscientious leader, poring over the details of every document that he was given.
As time went on, Mr Mugabe wavered. “He would make excuses, he was no longer committed,” Mr Dabengwa told The Times at a clandestine meeting in Matabeleland. Foreign journalists are barred from reporting in Zimbabwe and those here operate under the radar. “He was getting too old, he had too much on his plate.” Discontent began to brew within the party and there was talk of reining in the President.
Then Mr Mugabe launched his plans to seize white-owned farms. Most of the party backed the idea of land redistribution – the situation at independence was blatantly inequitable, with 90 per cent of the country’s most productive land in the hands of 5,000 white farmers.
But many watched in horror as he unleashed the war veterans in a violent campaign to seize the farms, handing them not to landless peasants but to friends, families and cronies. By now, Mr Dabengwa said, Mr Mugabe was so out of touch that he may not even have been aware that governors were plundering the farms and handing land to their own families. “He didn’t want to know the truth, and the people around him just told him what he wanted to hear,” he said. “He had lost touch with reality.”
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A man who is incapable to address dictatorism as a disease which is inherited by the suitable landscape can be helpless in a way. He has to make sense of fake realities more.
m g aneesh, trivandrum, india
Unfortunately, and I pray I am wrong, the removal or demise of Mugabe, will just set the stage for another dictator. I see Mkbeke steeping into the shoes of Mugabe and developing into the same paronoid tyrant.
Anne Wotana Kaye, London, England
Ian Smith knew it was going to happen which was why he said that there would be one man, one vote, once .he was proved right it is a sad day when no one will admit what is wrong
shaun mudge, chorley, england
"The economic meltdown is due to the unfair sanctions imposed on Zimbabwe as Mugabe's punishment for restoring land back to its righful owners."
Hilarious. Those rightful owners being the corrupt friends of Robert Mugabe? I think not. The only thing Zimbabwe should be concerned about is whether that land is being productively farmed for the benefit of all, not whether the skin pigment of the farmers is black or white. The land was taken and look at what's happened. Another corrupt African dictator makes his friends rich while the people starve. Move along. There's nothing new to see here.
Robert Laundon, Cambridge, Cambridgeshire
The economic meltdown is due to the unfair sanctions imposed on Zimbabwe as Mugabe's punishment for restoring land back to its righful owners. The whiteman forcefully settled himself and ruled with an iron fist for over 90 years. The indigenous people were denied basic rights and were treated worse than animals. pre 1980 under Smith's gvt blacks were not even allowed to vote so all those crying for the 'good old days' can only be ejected racist white Rhodies who are struggling to cope in their own homeland where they cant afford the excesses enjoyed back in Rhodesia through the exploitation of blacks.
Yes Mugabe's time is up and his leadership has caused much hardship but his legacy will live. He has set an example for the rest of us Africans: The whiteman is not to be feared, whatever the cost. Now even black S. Africans are gaining the confidence to start asking questions.
Political independence yes but what about economic independence as well?
The tide is turning!
Dambudzo Marechera, Kumaraini, Zimbabwe
The rule of law, democracy and good governance are indeed values that we cherish because we fought for them against the very same people who today seek to preach them to us - Robert Mugabe
Having pointed that out, I do believe it is time for change in Zimbabwe... Both within, and from the outside.
A Shah, London,
The poverty in Africa is a direct result of Western Imperialism and neo colonialism. In the case of Zimbabwe, Mugabe is just a convenient scapegoat (and a bit of a thorn in the flesh as well to imperialist alliance who expect every African leader to be their stooge)
They are all drooling at the prospect of another puppet so they can once again sink their claws into Zimbabwe's wealth thus perpetuating the imbalance.
ZIMBABWE SHALL NEVER BE A COLONY AGAIN, ALUTA CONTINUA!
Dambudzo Marechera, Kumaraini, Zimbabwe
Put all ideological conceptions aside. Robert Mugabe is a metaphor for Zimbabwe et al.
Bill, Alabama, USA
Robert Mugabe and President George Bush of America should get together in how they both ruined their nations economies. Down with Mugabe. May the people of Zimabawe vote for someone other then the Black Hitler called Mugabe.
John, Cumberland, United States/Maryland
Jin Burks, they may not have had political power under the white spremacist regime, but now - after almost three decades of black majority rule, the people of can't afford the basics of life, even though they have been empowered to make political choices via the ballot box. So how does an accelerating decline over three decades become the fault of the western world that oposed Ian Smith's UDI and supported black majority rule?
The simple truth is that Mugabe has taken away from the people of Zimbabwe any realistic possibility of making a true choice at the ballor box, and has mismanaged the country. Let's hope that he is voted out, and that he goes peacefully. Somwhow, I think he'll try to hang on to power at all costs whatever the result of the election.
Richard, Manchester,
I do hope so! The next people to gain power will look to Great Britain holding out the begging bowl for funds and facillities. I hope that this nu labor Government does not throw good money after bad. Look up the history of this once great land. The African did not want the European there and with the help of the UK, America they installed a fool into the highest postion, this fool has cost the life of thousands and ruined want was once Gods own Country. Let the Africans sort their own problems out, but send back any Zimbabwean immigrants that are living in the UK.
Brian , Ellesmere, Shropshire
If you are white and you began loving Black Zimbabweans and the Black race since the sacking of white farmers by Mugabe in 2000, you are naturally a white supremacist!
Ezhi Opfu, Johannesburg, South Africa
I was in Harare, the Capital City of Zimbabwe just last week. I am a Zimbabwean citizen of mixed race origin , and whilst people may criticise and demonise Mugabe he is on trial by Western Governments primarily for the following reasons:-
( for the moment put aside the gross human rights abuses)
1) For taking from the White man, land which has been given to the black populace, to correct a grave historical injustice
2) For standing up for his people against the exploitation of Zimbabwe's massive mineral resources which include :- uranium , platinum and gold , diamonds , timber and wildlife resources
3) For demanding equality from an avaricious Capitalist West which abhors any sign of an Independent stance from a 3rd world country
4) For exposing the hypocrisy of the British Labour government who wanted lucrative Trade between Zim & the UK to continue on very favourable terms for the UK
5) For handing over the economy to its rightful owners: The PEOPLE of ZIMBABWE. Bertram T
bertram tabbett, Milton Keynes, UK
The western politicians did indeed sell out Ian Smith's government, where most of the citizens of the old Rhodesia were so happy that terrorist such as Mugabe's mob had to kill and maim the many villagers to force them to join him with promises of riches and "freedom" (to starve and to die). I was living in that area and most readers will not know the facts.·
Ian Smith forecast what would happen and it has. The real racists are those who would not listen and instead judged by the skin colour, falling for the false propaganda, not the ability of the people concerned. By now under the original system, black politicians would be in a democratic, fair, mixed race government in a very prosperous country.
South Africa is next as we can see. Are you willing to continue to give massive aid to a continent that has self-inflicted woes? Only fools are because they must be forced to do the right thing to overcome the problems and aid only pushes this obvious solution further away.
B J Deller, Marbella, Spain
Jim Burks, Memphis - I am SO fed up with people trying to pin the crisis in Zimbabwe on the west, this is Mugabe's fault. He ordered the invasion of the farms, he sent inflation through the roof, he ordered the beating and torturing of opposition politicians..
This has nothing to do with the West and everything to do with African politicians failing to live up to their responsibilities. Work it out.
Owen, London, UK
Mugabe was put into power 28 years ago, Jim from Memphis, longer than many readers' lifetimes. You cannot keep blaming western politicians for everything and absolving Mugabe of the consequences of every corrupt, greedy, short-sighted and disastrous decision he has made since. Or are you saying that Africans are so disadvantaged and helpless that they have no power to change their own destinies whatsoever? I would call such an assumption racist in the extreme.
Emma, Cambridge,
Do not blame Mugabe for the chaos that Zimbabwe has become.
Blame instead the UK and US politicians, like President Carter who put him in power.
The first two paragraphs of the article say it all. Go back and reread them. This is what you have reduced a once-prosperous country to.
Jim Burks, Memhpis, US / TN
The really difficult fact to face about the situation in Africa generally is that it is almost impossible to become
enthusiastic about the end of any particular tyrant, such as Mugabe, as the next one up will almost certainly be the same, if not worse. The poverty of Africa remains leadership.
roy, Ankara, Turkey