The sky over Azadi (Freedom) Square, where Iran’s Islamic revolution was born 25 years ago yesterday, throbbed with activity. Helicopters circled, parachutists descended and glitter rained down on the Azadi monument.

The crowds sauntered at a more leisurely pace. Families picnicked in the winter sun on grass banks, while children queued at kiosks to buy popcorn and balloons.

Nearly 100,000 Iranians had turned up to commemorate the anniversary, but it was a smaller gathering than usual. Only a few in the throng carried banners emblazoned with revolutionary messages, and a group of young Basij Islamic militiamen gave a lacklustre rendition of the requisite “Death to Israel” chant.

After a quarter of a century, the country’s revolutionary ardour has burnt itself out.

Maziar was born in Tehran on the very night that Ayatollah Khomeini’s hardline regime took power in 1979, and his father was out on the streets celebrating. Yet today that revolution means nothing to Maziar. He takes no interest in politics. He attends no mosque. He has a girlfriend, drinks alcohol and goes skiing.

Maziar is a child of the revolution — one of a generation that has known only the Islamic regime but cannot have known much of its dark days, when girls would be flogged for wearing make-up and hauled off for virginity tests if they were caught with a boy to whom they were not related.

Maziar does not know anyone who has been flogged. He walks the streets with his girlfriend — sometimes they even hold hands — and he buys alcohol under the counter from his local supermarket.

“I don’t feel anything about being born on this day. The only good thing is that because it’s such a famous day, all my mates remember my birthday,” he says, flashing a smile and smoothing his trendy, crisp shirt.

The country’s young — who predominate in Iran’s population — are not much interested in the revolution. In a country where 60 per cent of the population is aged between 16 and 29, it is perhaps not surprising that mosque attendances for Friday prayers are falling.

Under the snowcapped mountains of Tehran, teenage boys race each other on motorcycles, zigzagging through the heaving traffic at breakneck speed and performing wheelies and tricks, to the delight of pretty girls in colourful headscarves. At night they go to “X” parties, where they take Ecstasy pills and dance to rave music. They relax in front of the latest DVD release — Kill Bill is the hot number — or meet in fast-food restaurants.

Murals depicting revolutionaries, martyrs and war heroes line the grey concrete highways — faded reminders of bygone revolutionary fervour. Advertising billboards entice drivers with the latest must-haves — a pair of Pierre Cardin stilettos, or the latest Nokia phone.

Friday is the most popular day for a visit to the Shah’s old palace, now a museum, in the foothills of north Tehran. Looming over the visitors who wander nonchalantly outside the palace is a gigantic pair of iron boots — what remains of a statue of the deposed ruler. Inside, hordes of Iranians gawp at the gaudy glittering mirrored walls and the red-leather dining rooms. Picnicking families dot the lush gardens, while foreign tourists sip black tea and eat abgoosht — a traditional peasant dish.

Maziar feels nothing towards the Shah, and the fact that the Shah’s son is touted as his possible successor is a source of amusement to many Iranians. “Listen, the revolution didn’t happen for nothing — people weren’t happy under the Shah. As for his son, he’s a ridiculous figure,” Maziar laughed. “Anyway, what other alternatives do we have? The Mujahidin? They’re totally useless. Between that lot, of course I’d choose the present Government.” His girlfriend nodded a blonde highlighted head.

For Maziar, life is good. In a country with an unofficial unemployment rate of more than 15 per cent, he feels lucky that he has a job, working in his father’s import business.

He listens to hip hop (P Diddy and Will Smith), his favourite films are all made in Hollywood and his tipple of choice is Jack Daniels and Coke. Like most middle-class Iranians, the lifestyle to which he aspires is as American as apple pie. Yet the attractions that the reformists have offered to the country’s youth are enough for him.

“We’ve got our freedoms now — we can do what they do in the West, just behind closed doors. I would hate America to come over here and bomb — our Government is much more preferable to that barbarian Bush. Do you really think he had Afghanistan’s best interests in mind? Or Iraq’s?” As long as Maziar can live his comfortable life, he will not complain. He will not be voting in parliamentary elections next week; he does not think that would make a difference. “Nothing will change,” he shrugged. “Even if the conservatives win, they know they need to keep us sweet.”

FACTS OF LIFE

Population: 65.5 million (65 per cent live in cities)

Life expectancy: 71

Infant mortality rate (per 1,000 births): 35

Illiteracy (above 15 years old): 15 per cent

GDP (2002): $107.5 billion (£57.5 billion)

Fixed lines and mobile phones per 1,000 people: 201

Personal computers per 1,000 people: 69.7

Population with access to good water: 92 per cent

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