Brendan Bourne
Win a £1500 Raymond Weil watch
(This story is subject to a legal complaint)
MANUFACTURERS of the world’s most expensive wrist-watches have been paying record amounts to buy back their own watches at auction.
The practice, which is being used to help launch more expensive new ranges of the brands’ luxury watches, has seen one-off models being bought by their own makers for 10 times their presale estimate. The value of some items has increased by up to 80 times over 20 years.
Other collectors are now complaining that the high prices being paid by watchmakers such as Omega and Patek Philippe are making it increasingly difficult for private individuals to compete.
The practice has been high-lighted by a recent auction in Geneva at which Omega – the brand whose “ambassadors” include the Hollywood stars Nicole Kidman, George Clooney and Daniel Craig – outbid collectors bidding online from all over the world on 47 lots.
One successful company bid was for its own 1953 platinum Constellation Grand Luxe watch which sold for more than £173,000. The estimate had been £12,600-£16,800.
Timepieces that attract the highest bids are mint condition collectors’ watches that often go into the makers’ Swiss museums, which are open to the public. But these collections have a business edge. Record auction prices set precedents for future sales and enhance aware-ness of the brand, establishing it as highly collectable.
Stephen Urquhart, Omega’s president, said part of the aim of the sale, named Antiquorum Omegamania, was to help push the brand upmarket with correspondingly high prices.
“This auction should serve to reposition the brand in terms of both pricing and image, which have thus far been seriously underestimated in this field,” Urquhart said. “We have been seeking to place Omega in a legitimately more upscale segment than that which it is generally perceived to occupy.”
Omega bid on more than a quarter of the 300 lots in the sale in April which attracted 48,500 people online, according to Osvaldo Patrizzi, the auctioneer.
The tactics have angered some horologists. Melvyn Teillol-Foo, a collector who bid online from Singapore and who bought several watches, said the company’s involvement was “heinous”.
Philippe Stern, head of the family-owned Patek Philippe, said his company had, over 40 years, bought about 1,300 Patek watches for its Geneva museum. But he said it was “preposterous” to suggest that it was doing this as a tactic to boost retail prices. “I bought the watches solely for the museum and none of these have been resold on the international market nor at auction,” Stern said.
“Although I am aware that some of our rare watches reach record prices at auction and contribute to our brand recognition . . . I cannot accept that auctions are just a stunt to bolster our retail prices. This is preposterous. The ‘retail price’ of Patek Philippe current collections is not affected by auction results.”
However, the strategy has proved spectacularly successful for the company. A 1953 rose gold Patek sold at Sotheby’s Geneva for 20,900 Swiss francs (£8,750 at current exchange rates) in 1984. In 2001 at Sotheby’s in New York the same watch sold for more than £735,000 at today’s rates.
Georges-Henri Meylan, chief executive of Audemars Piguet, another high-end manufacturer, said his company also bought back its own watches but not at any price. “We want to build a museum collection to use as a marketing tool but we don’t have a big budget to buy at any price so we don’t consider it inflationary,” he said.
Industry sectors news at a glance. Interactive heatmap, video and podcast
Everything the Business Traveller needs to know to make a better trip
Get ready for the winter sports season, with our resort guides and snow reports
We are backing British business, what is the confidence of the nation and what businesses are succeeding?
Growing demand for energy, oil that is harder to reach and the rise of carbon dioxide emissions. We examine the energy challenge
With rail travel in Europe on the rise, we review the benefits of travelling by train
In this special section we explore new food trends to help improve your dinner party and impress guests
Enjoy further reading from Travel to Fashion, Business to Sport, discover more
Shortcuts to help you find sections and articles
1998
£47,955
2004
£56,950
Essex
Check your free Experian credit report before applying
Car Insurance
£100,000
Barnardos
UK
£123,460 pa
The Law Commission
London
Hampshire County Council
Competitive + bonus + benefits
Manchester United
Central London
Moments from Battersea Park.
For sale with Winkworth
Find out about shared ownership.
See your free Experian credit report beforehand
Includes flights, accommodation with room upgrades, transfers city tours in Hong Kong and Bangkok.
PremierHolidays.co.uk
For your ultimate tailor-made ski holiday, click here
Get covered on your travels with a superb range of policies at great prices. Visit InsureandGo.com
Choose from the beautiful landscape and tranquil beaches of Oahu, Kauai, Maui & Big Island.
Contact our advertising team for advertising and sponsorship in Times Online, The Times and The Sunday Times, or place your advertisement.
Times Online Services: Dating | Jobs | Property Search | Used Cars | Holidays | Births, Marriages, Deaths | Subscriptions | E-paper
News International associated websites: Globrix Property Search | Milkround
Copyright 2009 Times Newspapers Ltd.
This service is provided on Times Newspapers' standard Terms and Conditions. Please read our Privacy Policy.To inquire about a licence to reproduce material from Times Online, The Times or The Sunday Times, click here.This website is published by a member of the News International Group. News International Limited, 1 Virginia St, London E98 1XY, is the holding company for the News International group and is registered in England No 81701. VAT number GB 243 8054 69.