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Read how The Times covered the conquest of Everest
How Sir Edmund described his achievement in 1953
Sir Edmund Hillary, the unassuming beekeeper who was catapulted into the
history books when he became the first man to climb Everest, died last night
at the age of 88.
Sir Edmund, who conquered the world’s highest mountain in 1953, had been
suffering health problems since April after suffering a fall whilst in
Nepal. While the New Zealander considered himself merely an average
beekeeper, he was widely regarded as one of the 20th century’s greatest
adventurers.
His feats were not confined to Everest and in later years he led expeditions
to the South Pole and to the source of the Yangtze River. He also committed
himself to humanitarian work among the Sherpas through his Himalayan Trust
and was made an honorary Nepalese citizen in 2003.
Knighted in 1953, shortly after the British-led Everest expedition arrived
back in London, Sir Edmund was admired for his humility and his unaffected
manner almost as much as his mountaineering.
After returning from the summit, which was announced inThe Times on
the morning of the coronation of Elizabeth II, the climber famously greeted
a fellow expedition member with the phrase: “Well, George, we’ve knocked the
bastard off.”
The explorer, who preferred to be called just “Ed”, was humble to the point
that he only admitted to being the first man atop Everest long after the
death of his climbing Sherpa companion, Tenzing Norgay, in 1986.
Helen Clark, the Prime Minister of New Zealand, described his passing as a
profound loss. She said: “Sir Ed described himself as an average New
Zealander with modest abilities. In reality he was a colossus. He was an
heroic figure who not only ‘knocked off’ Everest but lived a life of
determination, humility and generosity.”
Greg Gregory, the photographer who accompanied Sir Edmund on the Everest
expedition, described him as a “top character”. Speaking from Australia, Mr
Gregory, 90, said: “He was a member of the team like everybody else and
nobody knew until quite late on, when John Hunt, who was the leader of the
summit expedition, decided who was going up there, that he would be the
first.”
His achievement thrilled the world, as Everest had previously defied every
attempt at conquest for more than 30 years. Sir Edmund later recalled: “We
didn’t know if it was humanly possible to reach the top. And even using
oxygen as we were, if we did get to the top, we weren’t at all sure whether
we wouldn’t drop dead or something of that nature.”
As he was a New Zealander and therefore a citizen of the Commonwealth,
British subjects celebrated his achievement as their own. His ascent was
announced on the morning of the Queen’s coronation, with The Times
trumpeting that Everest had been conquered and “all is well”.
Remarkably though, the climb went unrecorded in picture form. While Sir
Edmund took the famous photo of his sherpa companion posing with his ice
axe, he refused Norgay’s offer to take one of him. Norgay had never used a
camera before “and the summit of Everest was hardly the place to show him
how”, Hillary later said.
Sir Edmund had joined a trip led by the British climber Sir John Hunt up the
southwest ridge. By the latter stages, all but two climbers were defeated by
exhaustion, and only Sir Edmund and Norgay were able to continue to the
summit on May 29.
He described the last moments before that triumph. “I looked upwards to see a
narrow snow ridge running up to a snowy summit. A few more whacks of the ice
axe in the firm snow, and we stood on the top.”
His taste for mountaineering began at 16, when he went on a school trip to
Mount Ruapehu on New Zealand’s North Island. It was there that he saw snow
for the first time. By the Second World War, Sir Edmund, who served in the
New Zealand Air Force for two years as a navigator, had become seriously
involved in climbing. Sir Edmund had climbed 11 peaks of over 20,000 ft
(6,100m) before tackling Everest. Until he successfully completed his
ascent, Sir Edmund had lived as a beekeeper in Auckland but the
unprecedented feat of scaling the world’s highest mountain brought him a
fame he could hardly have imagined. Later, he led expeditions to remote
corners of the Earth. In 1958 he participated in the first mechanised
expedition to the Antarctic.
His autobiography, Nothing Venture, Nothing Win, was published in
1975, and in 1979 he published From the Ocean to the Sky, an account
of his 1977 expedition on the Ganges. Sir Edmund’s life was darkened by the
loss of his wife and a daughter in a plane crash in 1975. There was a son
and another daughter from this marriage. He married again in 1989.
When Peter Hillary reached the summit of Everest in 1990, he and Sir Edmund
were the first father and son duo to achieve the feat.
Sir Edmund devoted his energy to environmental causes and to humanitarian
efforts on behalf of the Nepalese people. He made many other trips to
Everest during his lifetime but never attempted to scale the mountain again.
Returning in 2003, the 50th anniversary of his climb, he was appalled at the
way Everest had become a virtual tourist attraction. He called for Everest
to be “closed” for a while, to give it a rest.
Pen Hadow, the British adventurer and environmentalist, said Sir Edmund’s
death “closes one of the great chapters of planetary exploration”.
The conquest of Everest
— The Hunt expedition, planned as a demonstration of British achievement, was led by the military mountaineer Colonel John Hunt
— Two other members of the expedition, Charles Evans and Tom Bourdillon, began the first summit attempt, but stopped 300ft short when their oxygen ran low
— Beneath the summit the pair came across a rocky 40ft step. Sir Edmund jammed his body into a crack and wriggled his way up. The obstacle was named after him
— Sir Edmund and Norgay spent 15 minutes on the summit because they were low on oxygen
— Norgay buried some sweets and biscuits in the snow as a Buddhist offering to the gods
— They looked for signs of George Mallory and Andrew Irvine, who had disappeared in 1924 in a similar attempt to conquer Everest,but found nothing
— News of the conquest of Mount Everest did not reach the outside world until June 2, the day of the Queen’s coronation
— Sir Edmund described the peak, which is 29,028ft (8,848m) above sea level, as “a symmetrical, beautiful snow cone summit”
Sources: Times database, BBC, PBS
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My mother, Betty Genn, wife of the then Major 'Bob' Genn MC RE, volunteered her services to Colonel John Hunt to help with the gathering and preparation of equipment for the 1953 expedition at a warehouse beside the Thames at Wapping. As a fellow 'Antipodean' but from the tropics of North Queensland, she decided that she would take on the task of sewing all nametapes onto every item of Edmund Hillary's clothing (except his cap with striped neck shade) for the expedition. My mother travelled up to Wapping for many weeks, sorting and cleaning equipment, much of it from army stores. She has always been very proud that her sewing went to the top of Everest in Her Majesty's Coronation year, and of the small part she played in preparing the team for the ascent. The death of Sir Edmund Hillary has brought back many memories for her.
Helen Woodman, Bay Cottage, Dittisham, Dartmouth UK
Helen Woodman, Dittisham Dartmouth, UK
May I quote from Shakespeare's Hamlet; Act 1, scene 2:
"He was a man. Take him for all in all, We shall not look upon his like again"
Arthur Benjamins, Biggin Hill, Kent
I remember as a young boy escorting Sir Edmund around my primary school (probably about 1960). He was a very kind and gentle man. I read his book and many others about exploration, and I still love mountains, especially in the winter. What a great man. Will we ever see people like him (and others) again?
a thompson, southampton,
i was just 12 years old when Sir Edmund and Tenzing were the first to conquer Everest. Being from Venezuela I had no real conception of what the ttile "Sir" really meant but from the perspective of 50+ years, I think Sir Edmund (like Sir Winston) were intrumental in my understanding of this British tradition. With all due respect to Her Majesty, I wish there weren´t so many sporting the title these days that are nowhere near as deserving as two of my greatest heroes.
abel marquez, El Junquito, Venezuela
I knew Ed Hillary when he and his family were living in Tuakau beekeeping. He was a few years ahead of me at Tuakau Primary School. I am very deeply saddened by the loss of a truly outstanding human being. Who would ever have thought a man of such humble beginnings could have risen to such heights. Ed Hillary is a man of whom all New Zealanders can be proud not only because of his sporting prowess but more because of how he lived after Everest. His achievements in building schools, hospitals, clinics, roads and bridges in Nepal are truly amazing and inspirational. Also that he continued in this work even after the tragic death of his beloved wife and daughter in Nepal. Ed used his fame from Everest as a springboard not for himself or to feed his ego but to help thousands and thousands of others. His is an example many of todayâs so called sporting celebrities might do well to reflect on. Ed became and then lived as a true hero and he was a damn good Kiwi bloke to boot.
Mark Elliott, Birmingham, UK
I recall Coronation morning very well; I wasn't quite eight years old and like all the other kids in our district, already very excited. On the morning, my Mother switched on the wireless in the kitchen, whilst my Father was inthe bathroom. Suddenly, she called up to my Father 'They've conquered Everest; they put up a Union Jack but the wind ripped it to shreds!' I knew that it was an important moment inhistory, although I didn't know why. A few days later at school, we all wanted to be Edmund Hillary in the playground.
C W Hamblin, Hove, Sussex
I met Sir Edmund Hillary when visiting a winery in the Barossa Valley, South Australia. It was about 1957, he was going into the winery with a lady (probably his wife) and I was coming out. I asked him if he was Edmund Hillary and when he said yes I asked him if he would let me take his picture. He agreed and posed for me and I took a picture and thanked him. He was very charming and patient.
What a moment for me and what an honour to have spoken to such a great man!
Brian Edgill
Brian Edgill, Forest Row, UK
Sir 'Ed' was my inspiration from childhood that led me to start climbing at age 16 way back in 1962.
I became an Instructor and hope that through my efforts the young people I instucted have continued to enjoy the mountains of Scotland as I still do.
The World needs a lot more folk like Sir Edmund.
Stephen Barr
Stephen Barr, Falkirk, Scotland
With respect Daniel, according to Sir Peter, he was first on the peak, with Tensing roped behind him. This account comes from the great man himself. Since you were not personally there as a witness to record the moment, I accept his version.
Southern Cross, Brisbane, Australia
What a wonderful man Sir Ed became. Conquering Everest was only the first of his truly great achievements.
At the age of 6 I had the privilege of meeting Sir Edmund when he came to speak at the British school I was attending near Malacca, in Malaya. He brought his own slides from the expedition and captured the imagination of all the children there. What a great memory for me. Vale Sir Edmund Hillary!
Bill Sullivan, Sydney, Australia
It should be noted for the record that the Sherpa Tenzing Norgay was actually the first human to get to the summit of that mountain and he assisted Sir Edmund to get there with him.
With all due respect to both of them.
Meade on Thames
Daniel Meade, Halifax, Nova Scotia
For me Sir Edmund Hillary's climb of Everest heralded the modern age. The day he climbed Everest was the day I first saw a TV.
The Queen's Coronation was to be broadcast live and families gathered with richer friends to watch it on their new 14" TV's - a bit like the World Cup final now and Neil Armstrong's moon walk.
But I also remember that in the morning the BBC Home Service reported the ascent of Everest and these two things are forever linked for me.
Technology and immense bravery all in one day.
David, Dubai, UAE
Vale Sir Edmund. A great innings and an inspiration to us all.
The measure of his greatness is what he achieved after his famous ascent.
richard, bangkok,
I'm certain Sir Edmund would have approved of the epitaph - "God save the Queen"
May he rest in peace.
C Markus, Alcatraz - Leper colony, United States
It's a sad day, as a fellow New Zealander, we all feel your loss today.
Sir Ed... we grew with your inspiration, courage and humility.
Your legacy is ingrained in us all, and will be kept alive and continued in this country.
Thank you.
'Salute' ~Michele
Michele, Ak, New Zealand
A very straight arrow. One is heartened by his simple philosophy of life: "Adventuring can be for the ordinary person with ordinary qualities, such as I regard myself ... nothing venture, nothing win."
Stephen Lloyd, Auckland, New Zealand
Rest in peace Sir Edmund. See you on the other side of the mountain.
Daniel, Los Angeles, USA
My thoughts are with Sir Edmunds family. May this great man rest in peace.
Steve Blethyn, Reading, Berks
There are many reasons to be proud of being a Kiwi, and Sir Ed was one of them. Unassuming, down to earth, and dedicated to helping the Nepalese improve their lives while also contributing to NZ charities as well. Too often now children idolise Z list 'celebrities', but this man was a true hero, both for his spirit for adventure, and his spirit for humanity. New Zealand shares Sir Ed's family's loss.
Liza, London, UK
The passing of a legend - what a great man - a role model for our and feature generations not just because of his adventurous and pioneering spirit but because of his humble generosity and philanthropy, his ability to battle and win over terrible adversity and his because his spirit transcended the rest of us mortals. New Zealand's greatest icon, but the world's loss and heaven's gain!
Rest in peace you giant of a man!!
dave, adelaide, australia
A wonderful man and a great New Zealander, I am sure tha all New Zealanders living abroad as well as many in India and Nepal who benefitted from his hospitals and schools, will be grieved at this news.
Anthony Burn, London, UK
A life lived to the full, Sir Ed will be mourned for his death but celebrated for all he acheived. Godspeed on the final ascent, Ed.
Joe Hoye, York.,