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The first 30 bus passengers for more than half a century today crossed a bridge spanning Kashmir's heavily militarised Pakistan-Indian border in a journey which has been hailed by as a symbolic milestone on the road to peace between the nuclear neighbours.
The passengers walked slowly across the 67-metre Kaman Bridge, which straddles the Line of Control splitting the Himalayan territory, with garlands of flowers around their necks, and the strain of Indian bagpipes in their ears.
The green and gold bus had departed from Muzaffarabad, the capital of Pakistan controlled Kashmir, around two and a half hours earlier on its 61-mile route through twisting, forested roads to the de-facto border, the halfway point on the 115-mile journey to Srinagar, the summer capital of Indian Kashmir.
As he stepped onto the freshly re-painted bridge, Zulekha Bibi said: "For the first time since I left my home in 1965 after the war, I am returning home to see my five sisters. My father died during my absence. It is very emotional for me."
Children greeted the passengers with dancing and singing. Indian Kashmir Chief Minister Mufti Mohammed Sayeed gave a short welcome speech, before they boarded Indian buses to continue their journey.
Meanwhile, Manmohan Singh, the Indian Prime Minister, who described the service as a "caravan of amity", waved off two buses heading in the opposite direction from Srinigar
He said: "I expect with my friends in Pakistan that we work together. India is ready to hold the hand of Pakistan so that together we can work together and start a new era of peace and tranquility."
Hopes for such tranquility suffered an early setback at the hands of Islamic militants who view the route as undermining their campaign against Indian rule and have threatened to turn the buses into "rolling coffins".
Indian media reported that four people, including a police officer, were injured from a blast in an empty shop along the route. The Press Trust of India said that there was an explosion accompanied by gunfire a few minutes after the bus crossed the main market square in Pattan, 16 miles outside Srinagar.
The Pakistan-bound bus, carrying 19 passengers, did not stop and arrived at the Kaman Bridge 11.50am GMT.
Bus services between the two cities were suspended amid the chaos that marked the partition of India and Pakistan after British rule ended in 1947.
The reopening of the trans-Kashmir route — once the region’s main highway — marks a symbolic leap forward for the dialogue that Indian and Pakistani leaders began last year in an attempt to resolve all disputes, including that over Kashmir.
The service, which will run only twice a month, is a small concession for families separated by conflict since 1947 but also carries hopes of a big boost to a cautious peace process
Washington called it "a powerful symbol of rapprochement" between the two nations which have fought three wars over the Himalayan state that they both claim since 1947.
Security on the route was intensified today after militants yesterday stormed a heavily-guarded government complex in Srinagar in which the passengers were being housed for safety before their departure.
Two guerrillas hurled grenades and opened fire before attacking the compound in Srinagar’s commercial district. Both militants were killed in a gunfight with security forces, several bystanders were wounded and the building was gutted by fire.
Kashmiri militant groups fighting for independence from India have rejected the move as a "publicity gimmick" and a "conspiracy against the freedom struggle". They have called for a general strike today, but they seem to have little support.
"Pakistan strongly condemns anyone attacking innocent people," Khursheed Mehmood Kasuri, the Pakistani Foreign Minister, said. "What is their crime? Their only wish is to meet with their relatives. They are not politicians."
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