Incredible, beautiful photograph. If I thought I'd have even the tiniest morsel of skill at surfing, I'd be all over this sport. I envy him his adventures. Good luck to him, and I hope he lives to be an old surfer!

Jo, Los Angeles,

You have to be able to hold your breath for two minutes even if you don't get a deep breath and have been paddling.

David, fresno, ca, USA

Blimey. I never thought water could be so ... black. Dark and evil sums it up nicely.

Chris K, Cheltenham, UK

he came very close to death that day and only luck enabled him to survive. if he had died at such a young age, wouild the momentary thrill have been worth it? all of you out there with so much life ahead of you to live, please think more carefully about the risk of where you place yourself.

beric, BELLINGHAM, USA

As someone who is scared of open water (fine by beach/in lake just not way offshore) can anyone tell me do people wear a lifejacket and sonar equipment when doing these dangerous out-at-sea surfs, so rescuers can come and find you if need be?

With or without such equipment this guy has a brass set!

Lizzie, London,

never seems to amaze me that people would do sports like this that might kill them every time they go out , kinda like jumping out of a perfectly good plane . oh well each to there own

fred, edmonton, canada

Really impressive wave, photo's and I wish them the best of luck in the future.

James Maxwell, Watford, United Kingdom

Paul, I take it that you have never surfed in your life, the bond between fellow surfer's is one of the strongest out there, whether congratulating them on a nice wave or helping them during trouble. The reason they want to keep this a secret due to over populated breaks by wannabe surfers!

stephen, London, uk

I imagine Paul Harper can only relate to the swell of the Thames when he thinks about surfing. That or the internet..

Unlucky Paul!

Big wave surfing looks incredible for the brave!

RY, London,

Well put Nick.There are those of us who do it (me-a bodyboarder) for the pure pleasure and thrill.To experience the energy, speed, and strength of nature in such a unique phenomena is incredible.Banal & selfish describe a very small number of those I've surfed with.Most are generous and friendly.

Jim McLaughlin, Wall, NJ, USA

Yeap, utterly selfish that someone wants to experience one of the most powerful forces on the planet first hand and enjoy an amazing natural high and sense of personal achievement. These people obviously have no character, sense of discipline or drive. Me; I'm just very jealous! Great story.

Jason Larkin, High Wycombe, UK

Fantastic photo, anyone who has ever tried surfing will know the adrenaline rush of catching a wave of any size yet alone this big! How someone can call surf culture mind-numbing is beyond me. They put their lives at risk for very little money whether people are watching or not- no personality?!

Nick Searle, Swansea, Wales

This article illustrates nicely the mind-numbing banality of the surfing culture. It's all "me, me, me" and "aren't I wonderful", which is all well and good, but it's no substitute for a personality.

Paul Harper, London, UK