Kenneth Denby in Mandalay
Win VIP tickets

For Le Le Thaung and people like her across the Burmese city of Mandalay the events of the past few weeks have been among the most uplifting – and the most depressing – of their lives.
For ten days she watched as Buddhist monks took to the streets to demand freedom from the military dictatorship. Like the rest of the world she shivered as the demonstrations were quelled with smoke bombs and gunfire. But after the political disappointment came economic disaster: the foreign visitors who keep afloat Le Le’s hotel and restaurant business simply disappeared.
“There were many tourists in the beginning of September but then, after this Saffron Revolution, very few,” says Le Le (a pseudonym is used to protect her identity). “October to November is our peak season, but all the reservations have been cancelled. It’s not just hotels and restaurants which are affected, but all the tourist businesses.”
Apart from coping with the brutal junta under which they have lived for 45 years, Burmese have faced two economic blows in two months. In August enormous price rises were caused by the sudden removal of government subsidies on fuel, which triggered small demonstrations and then mass marches. But the protests themselves have had their own economic effects, not least of which is to have scared away the foreign tourist trade.
Aung San Suu Kyi, the revered Burmese democracy leader, has consistently asked that foreign tourists boycott the country. As a consequence Burma has never seen the millions of visitors who holiday in neighbouring Thailand and Malaysia. But last year 263,500 tourists ignored the boycott and visited Burma. By the end of August the total was already 190,000, suggesting that a record year was in the offing. Then came the demonstrations and the crackdown. The British Foreign and Commonwealth Office, like those of other nations, rates Burma as a country that should be visited only if essential. And in Mandalay – the former royal capital, until it was conquered by the British in 1885 – the effects are visible on the streets.
The lone foreigner who walks along the moat of King Thibaw’s former palace finds himself besieged by desperate drivers of taxis and the pedal-propelled trishaws, competing with one another to offer ever lower prices. In a luxury hotel the staff outnumber the 23 guests at a time of year when it would expect 200. And Le Le’s hotel and restaurant is empty. She has laid off 30 of her 50 staff; those that remain have had their 60,000 kyat (£22) monthly pay cut by half.
Less well known than the junta’s brutality is its incompetence as an economic manager. Burma is rich in gems, timber and natural gas, yet it remains the poorest large country in South East Asia. Average per capita income is £150 a year, well below the poverty of Cambodia or Laos. Unemployment is officially 10 per cent but probably closer to 30 per cent, and inflation runs at about 50 per cent. The country exports more energy than it consumes but because of its inefficient refineries home-drilled oil cannot be used in most buses, cars and power stations. Fuel must be imported and, in August, with global prices rising, the Government decided that it could no longer subsidise the cost. Diesel doubled in price, and with it the cost of everything transported by road, and bus and car travel itself.
The question for the Government is whether the intensifying hardship will quell the will to protest or invigorate it all the more.
One rule for them . . .
— Burma is ranked the world’s fourth-most corrupt country
— The official value of exports is £1.7bn, rated 110th globally
— Those close to the junta can buy heavily subsidised goods, which are then sold – or smuggled abroad – for huge profit, creating a black market equal in size to its legitimate counterpart
— A private soldier earns 30,000 kyat a month, officially £2,300 but in reality only enough to buy one and a half bags of rice
Sources: Heritage Foundation; CIA World Fact Book
Win a luxury weekend to Newcastle and its neighbour Gateshead, find out more here
Risk, resilience and embracing new technology
Industry sectors news at a glance. Interactive heatmap, video and podcast
Discover the power of collective thinking. Submit a solution and be in with a chance to win a Media Hub Home Entertainment System
The inside track on current trends in the charity, not for profit and social enterprise sectors
Everything the Business Traveller needs to know to make a better trip
Make the most of the summer and enter our fabulous photographic competition, you could win a £5000 holiday
Corsica is an island of beauty and contrast, an ideal holiday destination
Enjoy further reading from Travel to Fashion, Business to Sport, discover more
Shortcuts to help you find sections and articles
The clever way to lease a new car is with Car leasing made simple™
2009
per month on 36-month
Personal Contract Hire (PCH)
2008
42850
Car Insurance
£23,093 - £56,211
The Office for National Statistics
Newport, South Wales
£60,000
The Environment Agency
Bristol
Up to £90K
Boots
Midlands
OTE £85k
Credit Protection Association
Nationwide Opportunities
Completely London
Luxury Condo's in Manhattan with NYC views
The best new homes in Wimbledon?
Nationwide
Fabulous Cruise And Cruise & Stay Offers Including Virgin Atlantic Flights Prices Start From Only £699pp!
Last Minute Cruise And Cruise & Stay Offers. Med From £499pp, Caribbean From £699pp!
5 star quality at a 3 star price.
8 fabulous Canadian cities ...you won’t find cheaper
Contact our advertising team for advertising and sponsorship in Times Online, The Times and The Sunday Times, or place your advertisement.
Times Online Services: Dating | Jobs | Property Search | Used Cars | Holidays | Births, Marriages, Deaths | Subscriptions | E-paper
News International associated websites: Globrix Property Search | Property Finder | Milkround
Copyright 2009 Times Newspapers Ltd.
This service is provided on Times Newspapers' standard Terms and Conditions. Please read our Privacy Policy.To inquire about a licence to reproduce material from Times Online, The Times or The Sunday Times, click here.This website is published by a member of the News International Group. News International Limited, 1 Virginia St, London E98 1XY, is the holding company for the News International group and is registered in England No 81701. VAT number GB 243 8054 69.
"Aung San Suu Kyi, the revered Burmese democracy leader, has consistently asked that foreign tourists boycott the country."
Says it all really doesn't it? Maybe there's now a real opportunity to put pressure on the junta by EVERYONE staying away until something approaching democracy is restored to the country.
The self-serving idiots who insist on going despite the boycott are both helping legitimise the regime and fund the guns and bullets it so readily uses to oppress its people.
Guy Cavendish, London, England
Should you visit or not? I still believe that local people not connected to the government need every tourist kyat/dollar they can get. Do avoid the state run airlines, trains, ships and hotels but with a few exceptions this is actually easy to do, f.e. there are private airlines.
Guido, La Linea,
The media always exaggerate. If you want to support the people of Myanmar, then make a visit asap. Guess Iâm be trucking up to their Tokyo Embassy fairly soon. Foreign visitors everywhere may put a brake on government repression. Should be no problem getting a hotel room in downtown Yangon. And don't forget to "leave behind" copies of "Time" and "Newsweek". Even a DT would be better than nothing.
Andrew Milner, Karuizawa, Nagano
While I would also be advising to cancel anyone who ask me what they should do about their planned trip to Burma in the next 2-3 months, I would hope that individual tourists would go and visit my country in the longer term. I advise anyone who ask me whether they should visit Burma as individual visitors to do so; while I respect Daw Aung Sann Suu Kyi's view, I beg to differ. Why isolate the people because of their unfortunate state of being under tyranny? There is no clearer double whammy on the peopel of Burma. Individual tourists are the eyes and ears in Burma for the world. Without them my countryfolk would certainly feel abandoned by the world.
Peter Soe-Wynn, Leeds, UK
When I worked in Burma building "luxury hotels" I don't remember September being a busy month for tourists.
Burma is one of the most miserable places in the world during the monsoon season that is finishing this month.
The tourist season begins at the end of October and runs through to April. Go back at Christmas/New Year and then see if the bookings have really dropped off.
David, Dubai, UAE
In spite of any boycote way, next october 2007 I will go to Burma; I went to this country nine times during 4 years, sure I don't trust abaut sanction, embargo, and I belive that to isolate Burma is a wrong.You can stay and realy give a few monay to governement, if you know how move in and why you go. Many countries d0n't respect human rights, but nobody tolk: don't go there, if you go you will be accomplice, you will have a dirty hands!I Ipocrisia. So, I decide to go, just because my loved people now stay in big suffering
dila, piacenza, italy