Leo Lewis in Tokyo
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Tokyo, the neon-clad home of the pickled sea-slug and horseradish chocolate, has eclipsed Paris, London and New York to become, officially, the most delicious city on earth.
The Japanese capital was handed the coveted crown yesterday by Michelin, the French tyre company whose Guides Rouges have been every bon vivant’s bible for more than a century.
Eight restaurants, including two high-end sushi joints – one of them with fewer than a dozen seats – were awarded three-star status in the first Michelin Guide for Tokyoafter a selection process shrouded in almost obsessive secrecy.
A total of 150 restaurants in the city received at least one star.
Only one non-Japanese chef, Joel Robuchon, made it into Tokyo’s top eight. Gordon Ramsay’s lone restaurant there, opened with great flourish at the Conrad Hotel two years ago, remains, for this year at least, starless.
As well as the expected showing of hard-to-book sushi restaurants and classic kaiseki dining, the full list features three fugu houses, where specially trained chefs prepare the intensely poisonous puffer fish so that the eating experience is not fatal.
The number of starred restaurants – Paris and London boast 148 between them – beats all other locations covered by the guides. Tokyo was now, said the compilers, the undisputed “world leader” in fine dining.
Although Tokyo’s gourmet triumph is sure to send ripples through the culinary world, residents of the city are unlikely to be surprised. Fine eating is something of a national obsession and the preparation of the perfect dish is seen as a natural extension of the national spirit of “monozukuri” – the “making of things”.
The quality of ingredients also plays a vital role: Tokyo is home to the world’s biggest fish market, and the prefectures that border it produce some of the finest meats, fruit and vegetables in the world.
Dozens of magazines and about half of all prime-time television in Japan is in some way related to food and eating. Many shows exist simply to keep viewers updated on the staggering number of new restaurants opening in Tokyo every week.
One mystery, though, is why it took Michelin so long to recognise this. Part of the answer, said chefs at yesterday’s celebrations, may lie in the nature of the “undisclosed judgment criteria” applied by the inspectors. How easily, said one, can the Canard au Sang on offer at the Tour d’Argent in Paris be compared with a plain bowl of steamed koshihikari rice?
The delay may also be down to the gargantuan task and cost of actually visiting the restaurants. The compilers said that the most surprising discovery was not the quality of the food in Tokyo but the sheer number of restaurants. The 150 establishments that achieved a star grade were whittled down from a starting lineup of 190,000.These were cut to a shortlist of 1,500 by a team of five European and Japanese inspectors. There then followed 18 months of anonymous visits by the Michelin inspectors and the rigorous application of the guide’s arcane judgment.
About two thirds of the Michelin list is occupied by restaurants from the eight principal styles of Japanese dining. Tempura, the deep-fried cuisine based on Portuguese cooking, makes several appearances, as does the teppanyaki style so beloved of devotees of Kobe beef.
The one-star list includes a famous grilled eel restaurant that sometimes has queues more than 200 yards long during the summer eel-eating season.
Classic French cuisine prepared by Japanese chefs is also well represented among the star winners.
Michelin’s move into Japan is part of a drive by the food guide to broaden its scope and modernise its image after it was almost knocked off its perch by bad publicity and criticism from leading chefs. It has expanded its guides, writes less cryptically and gives more description of the food and service at the establishments it visits. It has also expanded its guides to 21 countries and more cities, recently adding Los Angeles.
British and British-based chefs had nothing but praise for Japanese cuisine. Jean-Christophe Novelli, who has won four Michelin stars, said: “They have been waiting for this recognition for a long time . . . the Japanese are very conscientious, very committed cooks. They pay the most detail to food of anyone on the planet. They are also the best in terms of sourcing ingredients.”
Alastair Little, former head chef at L’Escargot and founder of two London restaurants, said: “I’m not at all surprised . . . the Japanese are absolute perfectionists with food and that would appeal to the Michelin guide.”
Garrey Dawson, head chef and part-owner of the Riverside Brasserie in Bray, Berkshire, said: “I particularly like Japanese food because of the array of different dishes . . . you won’t get palate fatigue with Japanese food.”
Sample menu
Funazushi Crucian carp pickled in salt for a month, washed, pickled again with cooked rice and matured for at least six months
Takoyaki Octopus dumplings with chopped onions, cabbage and pickled ginger topped with Aonori seaweed or dried tuna
Koyadofu Tofu “freeze-dried” by a traditional method. Courses cost 25,000 yen (£111) each. Up to 11 may be taken
Source: Genyadana Hamadaya, one of the three-star restaurants
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I and my husband r going to Tokyo for 2 weeks in September so I ordered guide online in anticipation of the best culinary experience of our lives. We have both been to Japan, I lived there once, it really is Heaven on Earth when comes to food. We are in love with it. Cannot wait to sample the best!
Miss Manly, Sydney, Australia
Just about anyone who has dined at any level of ambition in Tokyo will have to agree with the Michelin panel. There just is no comparison with Europe, let alone North America. Whether the 3 star restaurants were singled out at the expense of others, I couldn't comment on.
Karl, Amsterdam, The Netherlands
The media commented, though, not many restaurants which are highly appreciated among Japanes grumays havenât necessarilly won Michelin prizes.
This can be an indication that the criteria in evaluating quality of restaurants may be different between local people and Michelin researchers.
Hiro Tanaka, Kamakura, Japan
As I reserved "Michelin Guide" in advance, I could fortunately get it . I'm interested in not only which restaurants could got the stars but also the price of selling at auction in the future.
Saki Wakuda, Tokyo, Japan
Many critics claimed that that the three-star restaurants celected for the first time are reflected with favors of the Michelin who is premature in Japanese cousines.
Ryuichi Sasaki, Yokohama, Japan
If I were a member of Michelin examiners, I would choose some ramen shops or curry shops. In my opinion, Romen and curry are national cuisine in modern Japan. In addition, I prefer no star restaurants.
Keiko Koshitani, Yokohama, Japan
I wonder why people are so fess about Michelin guide. Most of them has no chance to visit such expensive restaurants. If I go I may not enjoy the taste or atmosphere but culculate how much is this fish or dessert, etc...
Jun Tack, Sagamihara, Japan
I heard the rating had begun to introduce restaurants for car owners in France to expand tire consumption. Although it has contributed there, I don't think the tire consumption will expand in Japan due to its convenient transportations.
But people called gurmet are often rich and may go by taxi or luxurious cars.
Yuko Tada, Zama, Japan
I have some questions about the book, Michelin Guide. It introduced the three-star prestigious Japanese or Western style restaurants. But we have nice, good restaurants with much lower prices. Please give it a try to eat ramen noodles at Rokkakuya, Yokohama.
The publisher has to look into those daily basis restaurants.
Kazuko Sawada, Yokohama, Japan
As a Japanese, I'm very happy to hear the news that Tokyo has so many fine restaurants. But how to choose the three-star restaurant?
I would like to know the criteria in detail.
Yumiko Shimizu, Kanagawa, Japan
Three or four days after the publishment of Michelin guide of Tokyo restaurants, it was unable to buy it. I think the fact shows that to rank something is perfectly suit to Japanese people, and that's why Michelin generously gave a lot of stars to restaurants in Tokyo.
Ikuko Ishii, Yokohama, Japan
I have lived in Tokyo for 4 years. The food is OK but a bit on the dull side. Little seasoning or too much! I think it is only fashionable to claim great food in Tokyo.
I look forward to a great tasty nosh up in London at Christmas. I am starving for real food with taste.
jonathan, Tokyo, Japan
I have lived in Japan for 14 years, 7 of those in Tokyo. It is hard to find a bad meal here - although with 190,000 restaurants, there are some that don't cut the wasabi. One of my favourite restaurants is the Meguro area. Down a small street in a residential area, we discovered it two years ago. The 70 year old chef and his wife spend all day creating a course for the maximum of 10 diners that their tiny restaurant can hold. The first course is a tray of 15 different appetizers, each of which offers a completely different taste experience, sweet, bitter, sour, salty, spicy etc. Just that course is worth the 45 pounds per head. But it keeps coming for the next two hours.
Another great point about dining in Japan is that, whilst you can pay 200 pounds upwards for a meal, you can also eat great food, anywhere you go, for less than a fiver. All restaurant staff take pride in their job, so as well as great food, the service is good. And all this without having to tip!
Michael Jones, Tokyo, Japan
I am Japanese and am throrougly ashamed about the whaling. But what has that got to do with the fact that we have amazing food.... this is not a political article and a few people NOT eating our food isn't going to do anything.
Saki Baba, London,
With all due respect Messrs Shuttlewood and Houghton are missing out, but then again sanctimonious types always do. Long live Japan and it's devotion to fabulous food, be it live, raw, fermented or cooked!
ss, london,
I listened to your Giles Coren on Radio Four last night singing the praises of Japanese food.
The Japanese against international pressure still use whaling ships, now according to this broadcast their culinary delights include taking the flesh from LIVE fish. This practice is barbaric and really not necassary.
I am an avid Times reader but I feel I cannot support a newspaper that condones this practice.
As from tomorrow and for as long as Mr Coran is a member of your team, I for one will be reading another newspaper .
Brian Shuttlewood, Ventnor, England
Whale murderers wont be getting my tourist cash
Paul Houghton, JHBG, South Africa
According to FT, Paris has little more than 20,000 'proper restaurants' ,New York about 23,000. London not mentioned.
TOM, Tokyo, Japan
Interesting findings. Does anyone know the answer to these two questions so that a comparison may be made?
How many restaurants are there in Paris?
How many restaurants are there in London?
GeorgeF, Grasse, France
Bah! No matter what nation your are from, cook your own food at home and you will be in the most delicious place on Earth!
Bon appétit!
Yann, Poissy, France
The picture of the guy showing his hands to the camera is the sushi chef at Sukiyabashi Jiro. He has been making sushi for last 40 years and only goes out with his gloves on to protect his hands, even in hot summer!
gadogado, London,
As a Londoner who has lived in Tokyo, I think it's absolutely right to put Tokyo and japan at the top of just about every food list - utterly fantastic place to eat out, and eat in.
But don't knock London either. It is not comparable to Tokyo but the multi-cultural nature of the city certainly means it rivals (and IMO beats) Paris, Shanghai and Madrid. The variety is one of the best things about London food.
Alan Delaney, London,
Alice, have you been to London in the last few years? It has been the cuisine capital of the world, and deservedly so. New York, perhaps you can get a meal there for under 2,00 calories ...
Richard, New York/London, US/UK
This result is nothing new to a Tokyoite like myself. I live in NY and been to Paris and London. There is no comparison. Tokyo RULES!!
Seiyu, New York , USA
Cannes???
derek, london, uk
That's a lovely picture there on the front page. Shame it's of Yokohama.
John Smith, Cambridge, UK
Tokyo...The most delicious city on earth...possibly, but the picture shown is of Yokohama...specifically Minato Mirai.
bob, Tokyo, Japan
"Paris possibly, New York maybe, but what is London doing there? "
Why would London not be on the list? London has some excellent places to eat. Clearly people outside of the UK can not get past the fact that all we used to eat was two meat and veg.
Why do visitors insist on going to a British pub for food if they want quality. You get what you pay for (to a degree).
I now live in Canada and I have to say I have been to some exclusive restaurants and they are not a patch on some of the London lesser known eateries. And for the everyday food, I so miss M&S.
SM, expat(UK) Vancouver,
Now that Japan have resumed hunting Minke and Humpback whales for "scientific purposes" will Michelin endorse the serving of whale meat in Japanese Restaurants?
P Croft, Lincoln,
It's good, but its not THAT good.
Farrukh, Woking, UK
"Tokyo, the neon-clad home of the pickled sea-slug and horseradish chocolate, has eclipsed Paris, London and New York to become, officially, the most delicious city on earth"
Paris possibly, New York maybe, but what is London doing there? it hasn't been eclipsed because it 's never been. You think is more fair to say Paris, Madrid, San Sebastian, Cannes, Shangai, Hong-Kong?
alice, New York, USA