Jeremy Page, South Asia Correspondent
We've made some changes
to The Sunday Times
Since the 1960s, when the first hippies arrived with their tie-dye and LSD, Goa has been renowned for its pristine beaches, cosmopolitan atmosphere and plentiful supply of narcotics.
But the suspected rape and murder of Scarlett Keeling, a 15-year-old British girl found dead last month on the famous Anjuna beach, has now shattered the Indian state’s reputation as a “hippy paradise”, free of worldly evils.
Goan officials and many long term foreign residents were quick to blame Fiona MacKeown, Scarlett’s mother, for leaving her alone in Anjuna. They insist that the place is no more dangerous than other popular beach resorts.
Statistics from the Foreign & Commonwealth Office show that 40 British citizens died in Goa last year and ten have died so far this year, but 60 per cent of those were from natural causes. They include many British pensioners who have retired to Goa in recent years.
The same statistics also show that 847,000 British citizens visited India in the year up to March 2006 and 111 of them died, while 381,000 Britons visited Thailand and 224 of them died.
Nevertheless, a series of recent rapes and deaths — many involving drugs and British citizens — have created the perception that Goa is no longer safe for young backpackers, especially girls. Last week another British citizen, Michael Harvey, was found dead on March 1 in his room near Ashwem beach, just north of Anjuna. Police do not suspect foul play in that case, but are investigating whether narcotics were involved. A neighbour who saw Mr Harvey the night before he died described him as a “typical Goa train wreck”.
Also last week two Japanese citizens were reported to have died from overdoses in Anjuna.
Overdoses are nothing new to Goa, especially the more “hippy” parts such as Anjuna. But long-term residents say that they appear to be getting more frequent as ever-larger numbers of Western tourists visit in search of ever-more extreme highs.
While the hippies of the 1960s took LSD, marijuana and opium, the Westerners who pioneered beach raves in the 1990s were fuelled by LSD, Ecstasy and amphetamines.
The latest wave of foreign visitors — young budget tourists from Britain, Russian and Israel in particular — typically stay for two weeks and look for Ecstasy, cocaine or ketamine. There are also growing quantities of crack and heroin on the local market, which is now worth millions of pounds every year, police and local people say. “When I came back I thought I would stay,” said one Goan owner of a beach shack who spent several years in Britain. “Now I don’t want to. It’s ruined.”
Many Goans and foreigners around Anjuna say that the links between the drug dealers and the local police have undermined overall law and order.
There is also mounting evidence that local dealers target young foreign women, often giving them cocaine and Ecstasy free, and then sexually assault them when they are high.
“It used to be just that they would try to charm these girls — like beach bar boys around the world, but this is a lot nastier,” said one foreign resident who frequents Anjuna’s beach bars.
Foreign women are particularly concerned by a string of recent sexual assaults on tourists, including a British woman who was raped in January.
Troubled destination
— Denise Higgins, 52, a British citizen of Indian descent, was found in a pool of blood with a kitchen knife in her neck in April 2007. She was building a house in Goa. The suspect is a local man whom she had befriended
— Stephen Bennett was beaten to death by a gang of men and found hanging from a mango tree in December 2006. Police claimed at first that he had committed suicide, then that he was trying to buy drugs when he was killed
— Adrian Duggan was found guilty in 2005 of killing his girlfriend on Christmas Day in 2003 while on holiday in Goa. Duggan said they were attacked by an intruder
— A tourist, 43, was raped by three men in Betalbatim, southern Goa, in May 2000. The gang stole her key, jewellery and money. It was the third reported rape of a British woman in Goa in a year
— George Wigan, grandson of the 13th Baron of Kinnaird of Rossie and heir to a multimillion-pound fortune, died in February 1998, a week after being mugged in Goa
Source: Times database
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man oh man.. i have lived in uk for the last 12 years of me life and i can say that uk have got serious problems.... in goa we have to pay our medical bills and over here who pays them... so it shows how far actually the society is getting... drugs are a big problem anywhere u go. i had my next door neighbour who is 8 going to pick weed as he was stressed. goa is a place which due to lot of reasons like this country find itself in this position..society and parents are the main big problem... did u know that 80% of £20 note have traces of cocain...this fact shows how uch drug users are there in uk...drugs is big problem and should be handled in a delicate manner,,,, or we are gona go back to sq1.
melvin , london, paradise lost london
A perfect and balanced article. Appreciate it.
Ahmed, Bangalore,
Goa is not the same never again. Packed with ex israelies soldiers and benefits claimers from uk looking just for drugs and been high the 24 hours
manuel, london, uk
Goa is a state in the same way that Cornwall is a county ,just because some areas have a bad reputation it does not mean the whole of Goa is like this .Anjuna was notorious for drugs and shady characters 20 years ago and nothing seems to have changed .But just round the corner there are beautiful quite places with good people .As for the Police they are the shady characters ,and they are not there to solve crime .
James , Mawgan Porth, Cornwall
I think this is just one-sided story and Goa is just like any other beach hang-out. I have been there many times and never had any of such experiences. Such articles are just trying to tarnish the image of Goa. I dont think Goa is worse than Bangkok, Phuket, Kualalumpur, Bali, Sydney or even London. This happens everywhere.
John, Toronto, Canada
This is a very odd pattern of events. Drug culture alone does not explain the events. The drug lords will not benefit by press spot light and reduction in number of Tourists. There is a pattern of emerging threat to foreigners and inability to reach resolution on the cases.
According to comments above, foreign citizens are building properties. They are probably outspending most local property ownership candidates. Do locals have sufficient opportunity to acquire real estate?
Is any one aware of any local "nationalistic" group that has expressed unhappiness with the foreigners' presence?
Are there interracial marriages? Particularly, younger local female to older foreigner male couples. This phenomenon is common in some Florida retirement communities. It drives resentment among the local younger less affluent male population.
Turning Every Stone, Houston, Texas, USA
We are so grateful for the relentless prohibition based ...alcohol prohibition worked wonderfully...didn't it. What a 'litany of dispair' ,as the lab/tory concordat claim, ended its success by regulation and taxes. And so too the prohibition of pot...black market works wonders for tax free crime like prostitution and criminalised addiction. I think mother's milk and bread should be prohibited too. We must support pimping.
Dr D Knight, cambridge, uk
Goa packs a lot of variety into a small state. Different parts of Goa have different characters. Some parts are busy and commercialised, others quiet and unspoilt. If you find yourself uncomfortably surrounded by hippies, Israelis or British package holiday lager-louts or even middle-class Indian honeymooners, then move to a different place. You choose where to go and who you mix with.
JK, Kent, UK
I went in December and I totally agree with Will. I could nt put it better myself 'aggresive locals and the worst kind of British hooligan' . I am half Goan, but thankfully was born and bred in the UK. My Mum still lives there 3 months of the year. Its a toilet don't go.
Sunita Russell, Northwood, Middlesex
When is the mother going to be charged by the UK police? She took a 15 year old out of school for 6 months and then allowed her to drink, take drugs and sleep around. She then left her in the care of an unknown character.
No wonder British society has fallen apart every one seems to accept her criminal negligence as OK!
J, Shanghai ,
Poor Will from London, he's obviously hasn't had a good experience here, I don't know where he went.
I've been coming to Goa for 17 years and the reason I come back here is the people. There are so many lovely people - locals and foreigners - that is draws me back every year.
Of course there are good and bad people everywhere. There are drugs everywhere too, and not everyone in Goa takes them. Unfortunately if Scarlett had been alone off her head in a bar in England with a load of men, then probably someone would have tried in on too - who knows what might have happened.
natalie, lon,
I went to Goa as a last stop on a three month solo trip around India. It was meant to be a relaxing comedown after a hectic three and a half months hopping on and off trains and buses. Instead, I hated it and left as soon as possible. It's covered in ex-Israeli soldiers, high as kites, Russian lads looking for cheap heroin, aggressive locals, attempting the hard-sell on culture shocked tourists, and the worst kind of British hooligan. The beaches are filled with people claiming benefits from whatever European country they come from, and then living the high life, or just spending it all on cheap drugs and alcohol. Goa is not India at all, it's just a mess of all the drug addicts in the world packed into one tiny state. Avoid Goa, go see real India instead.
Will, London,