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When Major Paul Blair landed in southern Afghanistan two years ago as commander of C company of 3 Para, he thought the biggest challenge might be keeping his troops occupied. “It was in the back of my mind that we might get in the occasional scrape but that’s all,” he said, smiling wryly.
Far from the benign-sounding task of providing security for reconstruction without a shot being fired, the men of that first British deployment to Helmand ended up in almost continuous combat. Thirty-three British soldiers (of whom 14 were Paras) died in that first six-month tour; General David Richards, then commander of Nato troops in Afghanistan, described the fighting as the fiercest since the Korean war.
This week the Paras are going back - the first British troops to be redeployed to what has become known as Hellland. And this time they are going back in force – the largest deployment of the Parachute Regiment since the end of the second world war.
When 16 Air Assault Brigade assumed command in Helmand in April 2006, it had only 3,300 troops to control a province half the size of England – and 3 Para was its sole infantry battalion. This time round its new commander, Brigadier Mark Carleton-Smith, has 7,800 troops including all four of the brigade’s battalions.
Among the men of 3 Para going back is Sergeant Major Michael “Mick” Bolton, 44, whose gruff manner hides a caring nature and an obsession with reducing litter by crushing plastic bottles. Shortly after returning from Afghanistan in October 2006 he married his fiancée Lizzie – who is apparently very unhappy about their impending six-month separation.
“I’m going in with my eyes open this time,” he said, sitting in the officers’ mess in Colchester two days before leaving. “Last time round we were hoping to get a fight, because that’s what you’ve been trained for. But we have a saying – ‘Be careful what you wish for’ – and towards the end of the tour that was coming out of everyone’s mouths.”
The scorching desert of Helmand, where temperatures can reach 50C, seems a long way from the Colchester barracks.
As Bolton spoke, he glanced towards the most recent battle-scene painting to be hung on the mess walls. It shows the platoon house in Sangin, the small, dusty Afghan town that was the scene of some of the deadliest fighting during the Helmand tour and came to symbolise the Paras’ unexpected war. It was here that Bolton and others from C company spent weeks under siege.
“It’s very different going back, knowing what’s there,” he said. “You know you’re going to come across somebody who’s going to try to kill you.”
The first time that Blair, Bolton and the men of C Company appreciated what they were facing during the last Afghan tour was when they went on a “hearts and minds” mission to Zumbelay in late June 2006.
The photographer Justin Sutcliffe and I were with them. As we walked out of the village, after a meeting with the elders, we were directed straight into a Taliban ambush. For the next two hours we were running across fields, throwing ourselves in and out of ditches, as Kalashnikov fire, RPGs and mortars thudded in from all directions.
“Zumbelay was a huge shock,” said Blair. “I’d been in the army 12 years, done two tours in Northern Ireland, been in firefights in Kosovo and Sierra Leone, but nothing comparable to that.”
One of the snipers on the patrol was Lance Corporal Kyle Deerans, 25. “As the rounds were coming down, I did think: am I going to get through this?” he recalled.
For Blair, the lowest point was being told over his radio that no air support was available as the Apache helicopters were in use elsewhere. “That was a pretty introspective moment,” he said, with remarkable understatement. “I never thought it was a lost cause – our ethos and training is that you never give up – but it certainly wasn’t a help.”
However, he added: “If the Taliban had been better shots it could all have been completely different.” The impressive way in which Blair reorganised his men and led them out of danger was recognised with a Distinguished Service Order medal. Bolton and Captain Al Mckenzie, who commanded the Fire Support Group, received mentions in dispatches.
Mckenzie has since left the army and Deerans, who recently got engaged, will leave in July. Blair, meanwhile, is moving on to his dream job: running the Red Devils skydiving team.
Others to leave after serving in Afghanistan include Major Will Pike, the officer commanding A Company, whose men were the first to encounter the ferocity of the Taliban. The most senior to resign was 3 Para’s commander, Lieutenant Colonel Stuart Tootal. His resignation letter reportedly complained of shortages and lack of healthcare and other support for his men.
When I spoke to him he said that he believed the men going back were in a better position to make a difference. “Equipment has improved markedly,” he said, “and there is now greater emphasis on reconstruction and development.”
So what can the men expect to find on their return? Since the Paras’ first deployment, relations between Britain and Afghanistan have deteriorated. Although Britain has pumped in £3 billion in aid since 2001, and more than 90 British lives have been lost, President Hamid Karzai shocked ministers earlier this year by accusing British troops of having made the situation worse.
Helmand is on its third governor in two years, the poppy crop has increased and many locals have had their homes destroyed or lost relatives in the fighting. When I visited the province a month before the British first arrived it was peaceful – although people avoided travelling after sunset. Now most roads are insecure most of the time. “We’re getting more and more sucked in, but we have to keep asking ourselves if we’re part of the problem,” said a Foreign Office official.
The fear in Whitehall is that if security continues to deteriorate in Helmand and British soldiers continue to die, the public view of Afghanistan as a “good war” will begin to evaporate.
“Sooner or later,” said the official, “the British public will join up the dots between spending huge amounts of taxpayers’ money on reconstruction and military operations and a government that criticises the British and does Taliban-style things. And it will come up with the question ‘Why the hell?’.”
Some, it seems, are already asking it. The fascinating Helmand exhibition in the National Army Museum in London ends with a “have your say” wall that is peppered with comments from the public, such as “Wars never solved anything” and “The politicians of every generation have much to answer for”.
When I asked the men of 3 Para what their first tour had achieved, they all fell silent. “It was very frustrating,” said Blair. He believes that his men could have achieved something in the town of Gereshk, where they were first based, had they been given the funds and authority.
“I kept having meetings with local officials saying we were there to bring security and reconstruction. I’d say the same thing week after week, but then never deliver more than school packs. I felt I was giving them false promises,” he said.
He recalled visiting the local hospital, where the bedding was “filthy”, and coming across a washing machine donated by a US charity that was still in its plastic wrapping. It could not be plumbed in because there was no water supply.
Blair suggested sinking a well but the Department for International Development said that this could be done only by civilians. Because of the security problems, no aid agency had been in the area for years. “Fora couple of hundred bucks,” said Blair, “we could have given them something they could have used there and then – but we weren’t allowed to.”
There have been some successes in the past year. More than 200 senior Taliban figures have been killed or arrested and some rebuilding has taken place in Sangin and Nawzad. “I just hope, this time round, we do more than just smash things,” Bolton said. “I hope that we can reconstruct, not destruct.”
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