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French cheesemakers are about to overturn centuries of tradition by ending the use of unpasteurised milk to produce camembert.
Farmers say that consumers are shunning cheese that is made according to age-old processes after a series of food scares, while overzealous health authorities have buried their industry under a mountain of red tape.
However, purists complain that cheese cannot be described as genuine camembert without the uniquely pungent goût that comes from the microbial flora in raw milk — flora now under threat from pasteurisation, thermalisation or microfiltering.
Makers of the famous camembert from the Isigny-Sainte-Mãre cooperative in No-mandy have appealed to the industry regulator to allow them to continue using the vital certificate of authenticity known as appellations d’origine contrôlée (AOC).
But the request to continue using the AOC seal is likely to be blocked amid widespread fury at what critics see as an attack on one of France’s greatest icons.
The National Institute of Appellations d’Origine Contrôlée, which awards the cherished certificates, says that the reform could signal the end of unpasteurised milk throughout the French cheese industry.
“In the past I suppose we often made cheeses with bacteria in them,” said Calude Granjon, 55, deputy director of the cooperative. “No one knew and no one minded. I don’t think people fell ill from eating them because we were in contact with bacteria and built up our immunity to them. Today, everything is different and we have to accept that.”
French fraud squad detectives carried out a recent raid on the Isigny-Sainte-Mãre cooperative to discover whether microfiltering was already under way. “They found nothing illegal because we are not using this method yet,” Mr Granjon said. “But we are going to use it come what may, because we have no choice, although we are not doing it with a light heart.”
Mr Granjon said that the change was necessary to eliminate the E. Coli bacteria that are present in between 1 per cent and 2 per cent of all unpasteurised camemberts. “We tried all sorts of ways of stopping this bacteria without changing our manufacturing process and none work,” he said.
Only 13,000 tonnes of camemberts are still manufactured according to the recipe given to Marie Harel, an inhabitant of the village of Camembert, by a priest from Brie, fleeing French Revolutionaries in 1791.
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Since my birth, I eat camembert, the real one I mean. I'm from Normandy and I've never never seen someone to be ill because camembert AOC ! If Isigny and others producers want to stop producing "camembert au lait cru" they can. They just have to stop putting the AOC label. And we'll stop buying their cheese ! That's it !
We have to protect our regional products, our "terroir". A camembert AOC wihtout unpasteurised milk it's like a Stilton without its blue veins !
panth, Luxembourg, Luxembourg
Amidst all the great, thoughtful comments here, the Leftist mentality still creeps in: it's McDonald's fault! Nay, it's the dastardly cheese producers themselves!
Thank you, Dan in Galveston and the others who have correctly identified the villain: the self-serving bureaucracy, a far worse parasite than mere E. Coli ever was.
Kos, Mt. Airy, Maryland
Someday, far in the future, we will travel to other planets.
And if our current trend of hyper-sterilisation continues, we will die just like the Martians from War of the Worlds, choking to death from the common cold, because we will have no immunities left.
Michael Storm, Albuquerque, NM, USA
Please do not blame 'society' or the young for what is done by bureaucrats whose whole mission in life is to increase their own power. This is in the nature of government and bureaucracy, and will always be so, so long as people want government to do for them what they should be doing for themselves. Cheese now, something else later.
Dan, Galveston, Texas
Rather than banning use of unpasteurized milk, why not have a label - "this is cheese using un/pasteurised milk" and let the consumer decide. Because government agencies resent consumer choice more than they value consumer safety.
bob, Boston, USA
This has to be one of the stupidest things on record. I guess as Messeur Granjon said. In the past we came into contact with bacteria and no one minded. Today, we over clean everything and use too many antibiotics in beef pigs, sheep, etc. Why don't we all live in a bubble?
Michael Ponzani, Youngstown, Ohio, USA
I completely agree with Edward Johns. If anyone doesn't allow you to take known risks, they are reducing you to the condition of a child.
Unfortunately, that is what modern governments do and no one seems to notice how it destroys personal liberty.
Long live Camembert.
Álvaro Coronel, Montevideo, Uruguay
Cheese made from healthy cows should not contain bacteria.. Make sure the cows are healthy, don't ban the cheese. Cheese made from raw milk is one of the few ways to obtain the health benefits of unpasteurised milk, which is all but banned in the UK. What cheese is healthy? - well there are some that think so! If the cows are reared correctly on lush green pasture milk contains CLA, omega-3 and all the fat soluble vitamins. Sterilization will be the death of us! Did you know that the French not only have one of the best records on heart disease, but obesity as well. There are those that believe this type of cheese keeps you thin as well - partly because of its saity.
Nick, Crewe, Cheshire
mon dieu, what a ridiculous thing to to, will they remove the alcohol from my Port too?
Rachel, Merseyside, England
There is an argument here for allowing people to take risks, assuming that they know what the risks are.
Smoking is permitted with attendant health warnings in most Western states, the degree of risk with that is very much higher than from eating cheese !
Were we all to pay for medical treatment on a private basis rather than on the assumption that the state will fix us whatever we do to ourselves, there might be some altered behaviours ?
Anyway, if it's kicks you are seeking, try travelling by public transport in Indonesia!
Edward Johns, Lannion, France
I think it is a very broad generalisation to say that "young generations have no more good taste". I'm 17 and often eat cheese such as camembert and stilton, but I know people in their 40's and 50's who would never touch the stuff. Please try not to blame the entirety of "young generations" for things that you disagree with.
Molly, Devon, England
This really is the world gone mad. I have been eating Camembert and many other unpasteurised cheeses ever since I can remember. I travel extensively in my work and eat food prepared in many different types of kitchens all the time. I'm sure I eat some type of uhealthy bacteria nearly every day but I'm still here to tell the tale and I enjoy my cheese. let's hope the cheesemakers see sense and maintain their traditions.
Glen, Uckfield,
Modern society no longer accepts any risk, no matter how small. This is an unsustainable - not to mention incredibly dull - way to live. The banning of genuine camembert would be a great shame, but also raises the question: what is next? How quickly will the authorities and experts be able to create a sterile world in which we are all scared and neurotic?
Alison, London,
The reason which leads to the use of pasteurised milk is not the health of the consumers but rather the profit of the cheesemakers (they can gain 2 per cent of production ).
René, LAILLE, France
Camambert is a great cheese in spite of the bacteria that now they find everywhere. The point is that the young generations have no more good taste which has been spoiled by eating at Mc Donald's and other similar fastfood chains.
Roberto Castellano, Salsomaggiore, Italy
The more we try to protect ourselves from all bacteria and anything 'dirty', the harder we will fall and the worse we will be affected when we do catch any bacterial infection etc because we will have lost our natural resistance. If you don't want to take the risk of eating cheese made with unpasturised milk, just don't eat it - simple! This regulation is silly and unnecessary, not to mention a waste of time and money.
Eleanor, London, England