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A TRIP to the local shopping centre just doesn’t say Yuletide to us these days. I want snow crunching underfoot, frosty breath and mulled wine.
Hence a visit to Liseberg, the biggest amusement park in Scandinavia. When the rides close down in October it becomes a Christmas market, illuminated by three million sparkling lights.
After dark, Liseberg, in the heart of Gothenburg, is transformed into a Hansel and Gretel version of Christmas, with giant green rabbits skating on an open-air ice rink near Santa’s grotto, and squealing children dropping toffee apples from reindeer sleighs. This is where to buy trolls with scary faces, drink hot spiced wine, and warm chilled hands over charcoal braziers.
Stalls, tucked away in rustic red cabins, sell everything from handmade candles and traditional woollen Santa Clauses to home-made mustard and hand-rolled cigars — Christmas presents galore.
The fun of the fair is possibly at its best after a traditional Julbord (Christmas table) at the Hamnkrogen Restaurant in the park: feasts of Viking proportions, with platters of marinated herring, smoked salmon and reindeer, wild boar, cumin cheeses and caviar. The fish sausages are worth invading Sweden for.
Details: Liseberg Christmas Market is open afternoons and evenings until 10pm (closed December 6 and 7), admission £4, under-7s free. The Julbord at Hamnkrogen costs £30 at lunchtime, £40 in the evening.
Ryanair (0871 2460000, www.ryanair.com) flies from Stansted to Gothenburg.
Tallinn
ESTONIA’S capital is one of the most picturesque of Eastern Europe’s medieval cities, and when the stalls, lights and tureens of mulled wine are set up in the Raekojaplatz, the main square, it becomes a fairytale. Winter days can be well below freezing so do as the locals do and thaw out in a sauna or in one of the bars.
Details: Regent Holidays (0117-921 1711, www.regent-holidays.co.uk) has a two-night break from £257pp.
Nuremberg
THIS is one of Germany’s oldest and best-known Christmas markets, dating from 1628. The Christ Child Market is surrounded by beautiful gabled houses, and it has several different parts; an arts and crafts area, a food section and produce from cities twinned with Nuremberg.
Details: DER Travel (020-7290 1111, www.dertravel.co.uk) has a two-night break from £296pp. The German National Tourist Office has set up a website for all the Christmas markets: www.germany-christmas-market.org.uk.
Lincoln
THE UK’s biggest Christmas market is found on the streets of Lincoln, from December 2-5. Since its inception in 1982, it has grown to the point at which more than 300,000 people visit every year.
Details at www.lincoln.gov.uk. The White Hart (01522 526222, www.whitehart-lincoln.co.uk) has doubles from £55.
Stockholm
STOCKHOLM’S Skansen market, celebrating its centenary this year, runs Nov 19-Dec 23. Situated in Stortorget Square, it specialises in Christmas decorations, traditional Swedish handicrafts and food. Knock back the glögg, watch the dancing around the Christmas tree and tuck in to some festive food, which includes marinated herring, potatoes, meatballs, sausages and red cabbage.
Details: a two-night break costs from £142 through Thomas Cook (0870 7505711, www.thomascook.co.uk).
Vienna
AUSTRIAN cities are at their romantic best at Christmas, and none more so than Vienna when the Christkindlmarkt sets up outside the stately Rathaus, the city’s town hall. Lots of entertainment for children, glühwein for the adults.
Details: a two-night break costs from £195pp through Thomson Cities (0870 8880225, www.thomsoncities.co.uk). Niki (www.flyniki.com) has flights from Stansted to Vienna starting at £21.
RESEARCH BY WILL HIDE, GAVIN BELL, ANNABELLE THORPE AND NICOLA ISEARD
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