Tony Halpin in the Kodori Gorge, Abkhazia
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The young soldier traced his finger across snow-capped mountains and dense forest to the point where he had shot down the Georgian spy plane.
“They are coming practically every day now, but this one was crossing our valley so we took it out,” said Alyas Tsardiya, nodding towards an artillery cannon. Then, to deafening effect, he fired a few rounds in the direction of Georgia.
This is the Kodori Gorge, the tense front line between Georgia and its breakaway region of Abkhazia, that is becoming a flashpoint in the relationship between Russia and the West. This little-known corner of the Caucasus is Dmitri Medvedev’s first big test as President of Russia.
Mr Tsardiya, 22, is the second generation of his family to take up arms in Abkhazia’s fight for independence from Georgia. His father, Zaur, died in 1993 in a war that broke out after the collapse of the Soviet Union.
At least 200,000 Georgians, more than half the population, were driven from their homes and have never returned. Abkhazia has remained an unrecognised state for 15 years.
The drone that Mr Tsardiya says he hit is one of seven that Abkhazia claims to have destroyed in the past month as evidence of Georgian plans for imminent invasion. Georgia denies any such intention and says that it has lost only one drone, shot down by a Russian fighter jet that it filmed violating its airspace.
Russia rejected the charge but has added hundreds of troops to a 2,500-strong peacekeeping force it maintains in Abkhazia, prompting Mikheil Saakashvili, the President of Georgia, to accuse Moscow of plotting an “act of annexation”.
Russia and Georgia have acknowledged that they are close to war, ringing alarm bells in the United States and European Union. Both support Georgia’s territorial integrity and President Bush phoned Mr Medvedev to raise concerns about Abkhazia on Monday.
With Georgia seeking membership of Nato and Sergei Bagapsh, the Abkhaz President, urging Russia to provide security guarantees by opening a military base, this “frozen conflict” is thawing rapidly into an international crisis.
Sukhumi, the capital, is a decayed Black Sea resort whose once-elegant promenade is lined with buildings shattered by the war. It is a scene repeated across Abkhazia, whose 180,000 residents live amid beguiling sub-tropical scenery and the ruined homes of former Georgian neighbours.
Sergei Shamba, the Foreign Minister, argues that Abkhazia was a victim of a century of Georgian attempts at assimilation. Officially, it is willing to discuss the return of refugees but ordinary Abkhazians seem hostile.
Mr Saakashvili has offered broad autonomy if Abkhazia reunites with Georgia. Mr Bagapsh, whose wife is Georgian, told The Times that a return to rule from Tbilisi, the capital of Georgia, was “out of the question”.
Abkhazia wanted independence and had been encouraged by the international recognition of Kosovo. “If you look at the historical and legal aspects, then Abkhazia deserves independence far more than Kosovo does,” he said.
“If you allow me to compare, I would say that World War Two started with provocations. I am absolutely sure that if conflict starts here, it will consume the entire Caucasus.” Paradoxically he favoured Georgia’s entry into Nato, arguing that it would bring Abkhazia closer to Russia. Most Abkhazians have become Russian citizens and one of Vladimir Putin’s last acts as President was to sanction closer economic ties.
“The US and Nato have vital interests in Georgia, yet people are surprised that Russia wants to preserve its regional interests on the territory of Abkhazia,” Mr Bagapsh said. Any attempt by Georgia to drag Nato into the dispute would lead to war. “Even with the forces of Nato it will be impossible to force us to return to Georgia.
“They can destroy us, we understand that. If they could demolish Yugoslavia it would be much easier to deal with us, but for that you will have to completely annihilate the people. People should also remember that we are neighbours of Russia and have very good relations.”
Abkhazia relies heavily on visiting Russian tourists for income, though the numbers are a pale shadow of the millions who took holidays here during Soviet times.
The Times witnessed a convoy of Russian military fuel tankers en route to Sukhumi from the border crossing on the Psoi river. At an Abkhaz base near the Kodori Gorge troops took delivery of two trucks loaded with shells.
Alec Magomedov, 45, leads troops on patrol in the nearby hills in search of Georgian soldiers. The veteran of the 1993 war said: “When the snow melts in spring, we move deeper into the mountains and so do they. We watch them and they watch us. I’m not expecting a war but we’re ready.”
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I was long time on side Georgia. After visiting Abkhazia really, i see, that the best solution, if we want to save abkhazian nationality, is let him stay independet. If we dont want see on future this etnic group, we can make Abkhazia to part of Georgia. There is no more variants.
Peeter, Viljandi, Estonia
Have any of you been to Abkhazia!!
You all talk nonsense.
!Abkhazia was never georgia until that criminal Stalin forced it to be!
It can never be Georgia because it never was!
Eu and Us are just fascists supporting fascisrt georgians!!
Thanks to Russia there is justice!
alexei, malta, malta
This is madness when some people out of their minds dare to say that separatists, who caused the war resulting in driving out for approximatelly half of the million people of their homes in order to achieve their bloody ambition supported by Russians, could be independent. This is out of question.
Matthew, London,
its not about the abkhaz independence that russia i worried about, russia worries about loosing the Georgia and the whole Caucasus to US/EU...abkhaz are a pawn in that game, why would a 140 milion strong nation worry about 90 thousand abkhaz, in chechnya they killed 200,000+ who wanted independence
Giorgi, Tbilisi, Georgia
Greg there are 60 thousand Abkhazians in total. The amount of native americans in Montana. Think for a second, can they declare independence from the US? Suppose somebody gave them enough weapon and troops to kill or chase away all those who are against the idea. This is what is going on in Abkhazia
Alex, Hamilton,
Kitovani and Ioseliani came to power as a result of military coup orchestrated by Russia and both sides had only Russia as a supplier of weapon. Those events were orchestrated by Russia and driven to the direction Russia wanted since Tsars. "Clean" the region from Georgians and annex it.
Alex, Hamilton,
You are missing the point Steve. I very well know that some countries become independent. Point it Ioseliani and Kitovani could not possibly "invade" a territory which already belonged to Georgia. and so called "invasion" was sparked by hostile climate that was created by Abkhazians in early 90s.
Tornike, London, UK
Tornike,
So? Norway and Finland once belonged to Sweden. Countries _do_ become independent, you know. And to what conclusions have I "jumped"? Are you seriously disputing that Ioseliani and Kitovani led an armed incursion into Abkhazia?
Steve, Redcar, UK
Moscow's policy is the legalization of actually existing ties without the formal recognition of these territories. As regards global practice, such a model does exist, for example, in Taiwan. De jure recognition of independence is needless.
Finamrus, N.Novgorod, Russia
Steve from Redcar, UK before jumping to conclusions that Kitovani and Ioseliani "invaded" Abkhazia perhaps you could briefly peruse Georgian history where you find that Abkhazia became part of Georgia 9th - 8th century before Christ.
Tornike, London, UK
So that you understand what happened, hundreds of years ago - Abkhaz people were Georgians, with Georgian last names, then a Georgian King allowed people fom the mountains above Abkhazia to move to Abkhazia as a jesture of good will. These mountain people started calling themselves Abhaz.
Elena, Toronto, Canada
The Georgians play a brutal role in soviet history.
Who was Stalin? Who was Lavrenti Beria?
In 1944+, Stalin deported many nationalities from the Caucasus to Khazakhstan for alleged 'collaboration' with the Nazis, but did not deport the Georgians. No wonder they became a 'majority'!
Alex, Brussels,
In December 1921 the Abkhaz SSR, under pressure from Georgian Dictator Stalin was forced into a Union Treaty with the Georgian SSR. In 1931 the Abkhaz SSR was forced to become an Autonomous Soviet Socialist Republic within the Georgian SSR.
Metin, Ankara, Turkey
Abkhazia's 'fight for independence' is not a wise choice of words. At the time of secession, ethnic Abkhazians were dominant in the devolved local administration, but they represented only 17% of the population, concentrated in the west. Ethnic Georgians in th east made up 43% of the population.
George, Montrose, UK
In the period 1937-1953, the Abkhaz were deprived of the right to teach their children in their native language. All Abkhaz schools and institutions were closed. The Abkhaz were only allowed to study in Georgian schools. Georgianization politics and settlements, this is the fact!
Misosts Aslanbech, Nalchik, Kabardino-Balkaria
May we take it that your correspondent will move on to Zugdidi or to Tbilisi to gain an alternative perspective?
George, Montrose, UK
The Abkhazs experienced not oppression but disproportionate political power during the Soviet period. It was only natural for them to revolt after Georgia became independent not to break out of their prison, but to protect their privileged position as the jailers!
Pavle Dvali, Godalming, UK
I do wonder why Georgia - newly broken away from the Soviet Union - would not grant the same freedom to Abkhazia - previously an Autonomous SSR - in 1993. Nevertheless, the atrocites committed by Georgians and Abkhaz were sickening. Just another chess board in politics :-(
Charlie, Lagos, Nigeria
Russian summer resort? Visited by millions of Russian vacationers during Soviet times?
Looks like Putin wants the vacation Mecca back for Russians. This time just have the minority "burn-out" the majority and steal their lands and homes. Then run to Russia for protection.
Ed, Atlanta, Georgia, US
But Georgians are not Abkhaz, even if they live(d) in Abkhazia. Georgians already have a much larger country right next door if they want to live under an ethnically-Georgian government. Why should the Abkhaz not be entitled to their own state?
Greg, Philadelphia, USA
Zviad,
Can we assume you've forgotten who invaded whom? To refresh your memory, you could look up the names "Tengiz Kitovani" and "Jaba Ioseliani" for a start.
Steve
Steve, Redcar, UK
The native majority of Abkhazia, Georgians, were forced out of their homes by the aggressive minority and Russian troops. Now the minority claims that they have "historical and legal" rights for independence. Nonsense!
Zviad Ksovreli, Jackson / Tbilisi, USA / Georgia