James Hider in Poti and Tony Halpin in Moscow
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Blink and you could miss the Russian occupation of Poti, a Georgian port on the Black Sea.
The only visible sign of the great Russian bear is a small military outpost by the bridge leading into town where a few sweaty soldiers, dressed only in shorts, dig trenches around Soviet-era armoured vehicles.
Yet it is the very lack of a large Russian presence that emphasises the disturbing nature of the threat. While a single airstrike could wipe out the small base, it was nevertheless enough to deter two state-of-the-art US warships from trying to dock here for fear of triggering a regional conflagration.
The people of Poti know how quickly the Russians can return, recalling the invasion by land and sea this month that rapidly overwhelmed this small town. Despite their minor presence, the Russians still act as if they rule the place, residents said.
“The Russians sometimes leave their base and come here to take whatever they want,” said a Georgian customs officer overseeing the unloading of a cargo ship bringing cars from the Far East.
“They steal whatever they can carry and burn the rest,” he added. They had even made off with air conditioning units and other items for their base. They had taken other loot — and a dozen Georgian prisoners of war - back to the breakaway republic of Abkhazia up the coast.
Residents and police said that the Russians have not harassed civilians but had destroyed military bases in an apparent warning to the Government over its ambitions to join Nato.
Police said that the Russians had so far made no effort to enforce their threat to search incoming ships. Moscow had accused two US Navy warships that had been due to dock here several days ago, which turned back in the face of Russian hostility, of trying to smuggle weapons to rebuild the crushed Georgian Army. The White House dismissed the charges as ridiculous.
The Cold War rhetoric that has raised the tension yet further in this stand-off continued yesterday when Vladimir Putin, the Russian Prime Minister, accused President Bush of orchestrating the war in Georgia in a plot to get John McCain elected to the White House.
“It is not just that the American side could not restrain the Georgian leadership from this criminal act,” he said. “The American side in effect armed and trained the Georgian Army. Why spend years holding difficult negotiations and looking for complicated compromises in ethnic conflicts? It's easier to arm one of the parties and push it to kill the other party, and the job is done.”
Mr Putin said that his defence officials had told him that Americans were operating in the conflict zone during the fighting. He did not name Mr Bush directly but the White House swiftly denounced his allegations, made during an interview with CNN. His comments were also broadcast on Russian television.
By lending his authority to the claims, Mr Putin has raised tensions to a new level days before Dick Cheney, the US Vice President, is due to arrive in Georgia to show support for its pro-Western leader.
As the politicians traded accusations, in Poti the sense of helplessness and anger smouldered. “We don't want US ships to come here if it will start a war,” Vakho, a well-dressed man in his fifties, said. “It could trigger a battle and we don't want that. If the Russians and Americans want to fight, let them do it in their own countries — Georgia isn't a battlefield.”
Another man smoking on a porch on the quiet main street said: “We don't want Russians as peacekeepers. Some other neutral country should come in.”
A third man was more belligerent, frustrated by the foreign military presence in his town. “The Russians are fascist pigs. These pigs will go away but there's a big pig farm just across the border,” he said. “If Saakashvili can't make peace, then we should fight the Russians.”
The only public face of the Russian soldiers themselves was a short, apologetic private manning the makeshift gate to the base that his comrades were busy entrenching. “I don't like what happened but it's not my choice,” said the guard, who is under orders not to allow anyone into the base, for now scarcely more than a field with a few armoured vehicles and a Russian flag fluttering at its centre. “People should live in peace, but not everyone here agrees with me.”
The continued Russian presence is also irritating the international community. Tbilisi has railed against the remaining Russian troops while Nato has tried to calm nerves by denying claims that it is increasing its naval presence in the Black Sea.
“There is no Nato naval build-up in the Black Sea as Russian authorities are claiming,” an official said yesterday, adding that the five warships under its flag on the Black Sea were there for long-planned exercises. In Batumi, a sub-tropical port and resort town to the south of Poti, there was no sign of any US ships and life was going on as normal.
But in other resorts that dot the coast there was simmering anger at a tourist season ruined by the war. “Normally we'd have 50 guests at this time of year, this is when we make the money to tide us through the winter. But we have no guests, so I'm worried,” one guesthouse proprietor said.
The target of his ire was less the Russians than his own President, whom he blamed for having started a war with an unstoppable giant. “No one here likes him. You've got to be stupid to start a war with the Russians.”
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2 George, San Diego, USA
"Oil back to $40 and Russia=Poor"
I would add "US Taxpayers money back to US and Georgia army=Poor". Go ahead George! Make the prices go down!
Here in Russia we have to pay for petrol more than $1 per Liter (>$3,7 per gallon). Or you think we have petrol for free here?
vlad, moscow, russia
EU & USA are tyrant, need to be stopped, they organise and store trouble in the world. It is time for rest of the world to stood up to America & EU
v.c, Leeds, UK
Heya! Free world! Have anybody heard or seen Putin's iterview to CNN in full? Spend half a day in english language internet. Nothing. Russian TV sounded more interesting questions and answers last night.
Oleg, Murmansk, Russia
Instead of calming tensions down, a respectable news paper quotes abuses "russian pigs", "pig's farm".... Is there any story from other side, from S. Ossetia and Abkhazia? Or they can talk in "Have your say" only?
Oleg, Murmansk, Russia
Well Putin is kgb putin is this putin is an imperialist
let's see USA
Iraq a legal war LOL
afghanistan well the taliban were there
and who trained the taliban
Russia violates human rights
Abu Gharaib, Guantanamo LOL
Putin is kgb
W is the son of the CIA director lol
SOROS how's NWO now LOL
john, los angeles, usa
On Agent (once KGB always KGB) Putin's charges 2: As Mandy Rice-Davies remarked when told at trial that Lord Astor denied having sex with her: "Well 'e would now, wouldn't 'e."
Leonard, New York, United States
To Agent Putin's absurd charges: The US military is not stupid; had they encouraged the Georgians they would have counseled them to first seal off or blow up the Roki Tunnel, accomplish that and Tskhinvali is indefensible as it is ringed by mountains populated by Georgian towns.
Leonard, New York, United States
Smells like KGB, must be KGB.
Judy Bond, NJ, USA
Send Milliband to Moscow
Maybe Putin will die laughing!!
billy, Cardiff, Wales
I think that any nation (people) which is terrorized by tyrant regimes can solve that by their own resources, and there is no reason for USA, EU, Russia or any other external factor (including UN) to go in with military and bring "democracy". It should be internal matter.
perazdera, Belgrade, Serbia
One also wonders, Stephen, LA, how did you feel when Britain had decided to protect Northern Ireland from an Irish "genocide"...
pats, Samara, Russia
1939, Poland.... now Georgia... and all the West... do nothing, only talk....
Lost hope on ONZ UE NATO....
Rat, Zary, Poland
2 Andrew Webb, Tbilisi, Georgia
What are you talking about, who suffered from whom??
Since 18th century Russian empire defended Georgia from Osman empire (Turkey), see what happened 2 armenians. And Iosif Stalin was georgian - he destroyed millions of russians during his hunt for state enemies.
Yuri, Saint-Petersburg, Russia
>People in Georgia have suffered 2 centuries
> of Russian rule that were truly awful. Free them!
of Georgian rule by their compatriot Dugavilli...
Nikolaj, Ljubljana, Slovenia
"You've got to be stupid to start a war with the Russians So why was Israel and the US arming and training Special Forces in Georgia? BBC TV Panorama showed these special forces complete with ski masks, abandoned in a lay by. No officers in sight. Like it or not Putin is right to ask questions.
Chris Coles, Medstead, Alton, United Kingdom
1) Georgia was NUTS to attack first! 1) The U.S., E.U. and NATO were NUTS to establish the KOSOVO Precedent. That opened the Pandora's Box that's unlikely to close anytime soon. Total Stupidity on so many levels. The SOLUTION? Go Crazy with Energy Independence - Oil back to $40 and Russia=Poor
George, San Diego, USA
It just amazes me how many people in europe cannot think for themselves. Russia invades its neighbor and you lemmings blame the United States rather than the new empirialist Putin. Those of you happy to see russia doing what it is doing deserve the same fate to your wretched countries.
Kristina Jensen, Copenhagen, Denmark
If West is really for free speech, why I can't find the WHOLE interview Putin gave to CNN? I would like to listen the other side as well.
Alex, Seattle, USA
"...Soviet-era armoured vehicles..." - as opposed to what? The Americans are too still using "Soviet-era" hardware. The US Cutter Dallas was commissioned in 1968. The M1 Abrams tank: since 1979.The M16 rifles: 1961. etc.
Bob A, Melbourne, Australia
Stephen, Los Angeles, USA
1. There would be no Irish genocide of Nothern Ireland unless US "democratically" put someone like Saakashvili to rule them
2. Russia would never care about Ireland as long as it is far from its borders.
Nekruz Khamidov, Moscow, Russia
Putin won elections in 2000 same way by starting war with Chechya. So he knows how this works.
Dmitry, Moscow, Russia
Putin is correct
Randall Scheunemann:
He is a director of the Project for a New American Century (PNAC).
While the foreign affairs advisor to Republican presidential candidate John McCain, Scheunemann was also a registered foreign agent (lobbyist) for the Republic of Georgia
Phil Ishmael, Liverpool,
I have read in The Independent today what some Georgians think: - "Please tell everyone in Russia, in the world, that we want to be with Russia, we don't want Saakashvili." The article is called "Georgians stuck in limbo begin to lash out at Saakashvili". It is more complex case, isn't it?
Wagner, Neuss,
America says 'do what we say and do not do what we do'. Remember Greneda, Panama, Nicaragia etc ect.... Kettles and black pots abound.
David, London, UK
Andrew Webb,
Well, in 1920s Americans did to Ireland what Russia is doing now to South Osetia and Abkhazia, you should feel affiliated with them, not with the Georgian aggressors, who committed genocide and were rightfully wipped and ran away with their tail between their legs.
Peter, Washington, USA
It will be interesting to see if the Russians now decide to stay until after the US transition in January. That way Putin can "reward" whoever wins and not let Bush take any credit. If the West had criticised Georgia more for the invasion at the time this situation probably would not exist.
Jeff Larsen, Chch, NZ
If you lived here in Russia for some time you would understand that Putin isn't tyran or fasist or something of the kind. Surely he makes errors, but he's russian patriot, and we russians feel this and respect him for this. And don't worry we russians are not fools.
Oleg, Moscow,
I think US and EC should mind its own business. Where is USA and where is Georgia better take care of Panama.
Alex, Moscow, Russia
To Andrew Webb
How about the freedom of the people of S. Osetia and Abkhazia from Georgia constantly trying to take their land by force? Free them!
Iannis, Thessaloniki, Greece
seems to me the whole thing was a set up to get Poland and the Czech republic scared enough to sign up to the missle agreement, which they had previously been wavering on.
Andrew Wakeling, London, uk
One wonders, PD, how you would feel if the Russians had decided to protect Northern Ireland from an Irish "genocide" and if you would still support Mr. Putin if Russian "peacekeepers" were now "protecting" Dun Laoghaire.
As an American, I abhor U.S. foreign policy. That doesn't make Russia right.
Stephen, Los Angeles, USA
Didn't the Americans anticipate this situation developing?
In Iraq Bush thought only he can act irresponsibly and get away with it, without imagining what precedence he will be leaving behind.
I am happy to see Russia doing what it is doing..it leaves a lesson for the Americans to learn.
Jason, Sydney, Australia
To PD of Dublin, Ireland.
I suppose the USA should not have intervened in the 1920's with financial and political support (and waepons by all accounts) to help you get your freedom from Britain then?
People in Georgia have suffered 2 centuries of Russian rule that were truly awful. Free them!
Andrew Webb, Tbilisi, Georgia
"Its about time someone stood up to the American Government and told them to stop meddling in affairs that don't concern them. Good on you Mr Putin."
If that statement is not incredible foolish I do not know what is. Mr Putin is a tyrant, far worse than Bush in my opinion.
Max, Calgary, Canada
Insanity. Putin's imperialist ambitions know no bounds. His lies, refined in the KGB are serious business. After Clinton's non-UN sanctioned adventure in Kosovo, Putin said "We will re-double our efforts to return Ossetia and Abkhazia to Russia". The West was warned. It continues to do nothing.
David Hunt, Cambridge, England
Sadly, I agree that the Americans not only knew about the Georgian plans but were fully supportive of it taking place while the world attention was towards the Olympics. It was all done with a wink and a nod from the White house. Totally not possible that the stupid georgian president did it himself
Arvin, Lon, GB
Of course Putin blames all this on America. He's KGB trained, sow as much dissent amongst the enemy as possible. And he knows from his cold war days that there are plenty of "useful fools" in the West who blame the US when it rains, or their bus it late.
Ian Bannen, Oxford, UK
The wearing of blue helmets by these so called Russian 'peace keepers' is a perversion of its symbolism and mockery of the United Nations.
Walter, Victoria, Canada
Its about time someone stood up to the American Government and told them to stop meddling in affairs that don't concern them. Good on you Mr Putin.
PD, Dublin, Ireland