The 5km taxi journey to the centre should cost no more £4, but keep an eye on the meter. Buses to the centre run throughout the day and cost 20 pence.

WAYS TO STAY

Old town charm
Stikliai, in the heart of Vilnius' historic centre, boasts luxurious rooms decorated with antique furnishings and floral patterns. Facilities include sauna, swimming pool and business centre, and the hotel is a favourite with visiting diplomats.
Singles from £120 (Gaono 7, www.stikliaihotel.lt)

Low-price luxury
The five star Naritus has accommodation overlooking a glass-covered atrium, and some rooms feature frescoes and original sixteenth century timber beams.
Singles from £80 (Pilies 24, www.narutis.com).

Baltic boutique
The Shakespeare Hotel is the closest Vilnius comes to a boutique hotel and has individually designed rooms named after literary heavyweights. Expect complimentary fruit baskets, telephones in the bathroom and a choice of pancakes for breakfast.
Singles from £55 (Bernardinu 8/8, www.shakespeare.lt)

THE BEST DINERS IN TOWN

The in-crowd
Cozy is the hottest address in town, and a chic, designer space popular with Vilnius' media set. On the menu everything from fish and chips to goat cheese pie served with pine nuts and honey.
Mains from £2. (Dominikonu 10, 261 11 37).

Fashionable fusion
G-Lounge serves beautifully presented fusion dishes inside an interior taken straight from the pages of Wallpaper magazine.
Mains from £5.80 (Didzioji 11, 260 94 30)

Local classic
Lokys is stuffed with hunting trophies, and has a menu that includes deer, boar and beaver stew. Wash it down with a pot of traditional Lithuanian mead.
Mains from £6.80 (Stikliai 8, 262 90 46).

Not for vegetarians
Zemaiciu Smukle is a warren of underground chambers and offers a huge platters of grilled animals. Vaulted ceilings and bench seats generate a rowdy beer hall atmosphere.
Mains from £5 (Vokieciu 24, 261 65 73).

WHAT TO SEE

The Genocide Museum (Auku 2a) inside a former KGB building is a grim reminder of Lithuania's recent history. Execution rooms and torture cells have been preserved as they were and make for sobering viewing. Closed on Monday. For something more light-hearted visit the Gariunai market on the city limits. Drawing 50,000 people each day, this open air market is a quirky tribute to raw capitalism, and is a graveyard of exotic junk and collectibles.

DON’T MISS…

the fashionable Uzupis district - Vilnius' very own breakaway republic. Complete with its own set of wacky statutes ('people have the right to be insignificant'), and twelve man army, the area is home to battered townhouses, a smattering of trendy bars and galleries, and a community of intellectuals. April Fool's Day marks the area’s independence day.

NEED TO KNOW

British Embassy (246 29 00). Vilnius Tourist Information can be found at Vilniaus 22 and can help with hotel bookings, car rental and historical tours.

Alex Webber has lived in Eastern Europe for the last four years and splits his time between Poland and the Baltic states. He is editor-in-chief of the In Your Pocket travel guides to Poland

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