Smash hit

These are the streets of a city redolent of European wars, struggle, brief flashes of golden ages, nationalism, communism and now of capitalism.

Romania is working hard for European Union membership and the implications of that mean you should get there soon before it becomes like everywhere else. A favourite local expression is that "Romania is a country of great potential and will always remain so". Now, it might be starting to overcome that fatalism. A new generation of entrepreneurs, often with overseas experience, some from the Romanian Diaspora or the many Israelis of Romanian descent are making a difference.

Hotel have improved dramatically, from the once bombed out Hotel Athenee Place, war time headquarters of the German visiting forces and now a Hilton, to the charming Hotel Residence, I stayed in. Food, which was hard to write home about, is now of good quality and interest and there is a bit of a renaissance in Romanian food. Wine is cheap and frequently superb. Ursus (Bear) beer is thirst quenching. Street cafes are now relative oases of calm. Yes, there is a sort of café culture now.

But the best thing is that you can still find hints of the past. I sought out a favourite haunt, Caru cu Bere in the Lipscani area behind the impressive central bank. Its stunning over-the-top mock gothic interior (which makes the Pugin interiors of Westminster look under decorated) was intact. So too were the knots of white coated, incredibly surly waiters, living legacies of the communist era. I was so pleased to see that some things never change I stayed and ordered a delicious Corba de Burta (tripe soup), Salam di Subiu (pressed meats and a not bad salami from, guess what, Sibiu in Transylvania) and an Ursus or two.

I did not even mind that it took an eternity to arrive.

NEED TO KNOW

Hotel Residence (Str. Clucerului 9, Bucharest, single room £50). Simple stylish décor and very clean.

Hotel Intercontinental (Single £120, www.ichotelsgroup.com/h/d/ic/1/en/hd/buhha). Hideous communist-era monstrosity with character. Athenee Palace

Hilton (www.hilton.com/en/hi/hotels/index.jhtml?ctyhocn=BUHHITW). Fabulous location and great history.

Bucharest InYourPocket guide (www.inyourpocket.com/romania/bucharest/en). Romanian hotel guide (www.hotelnet.ro/bucharest-travel-guide/bucharest.htm).

British Airways and Tarom fly at least daily to Bucharest's Otopeni International Airport.

Museums: Bucharest has many museums, some of them rather tawdry or corrupted by the false history peddled in communist times. Among the best are the Village Museum, a remarkable open air collection of peasant dwellings from around the country, and the History Museum of Romania which has some extraordinary historical displays.

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