Oliver August in Damascus and James Hider in Baghdad
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Iraqi refugees are returning home in dramatic numbers, concluding that security in Baghdad has been transformed. Thousands have left their refuge in Syria in recent months, according to some estimates.
The Iraqi Embassy is organising a secure mass convoy from Damascus to Baghdad on Monday for refugees who want to drive back. Embassy notices went up around the Syrian capital yesterday, offering free bus and train rides home.
Saida Zaynab, the Damascus neighbourhoods once dominated by many of the 1.5 million Iraqi refugees, is almost deserted. Apartment prices are plummeting and once-crowded shops and buses are half empty.
The UN High Commission for Refugees (UNHCR) was scrambling to assess the transformation last night. An interim report is expected today. “There is a large movement of people going back to Iraq. We are doing rapid research on this,” a spokesman said.
Syria has absorbed the lion’s share of Iraqi refugees since the US-led invasion and subsequent insurgency, with the rest going to Jordan, Egypt and other countries around the region. They, too, report a growing number of returnees.
Hussein Ali Saleh, the director of the National Theatre in Baghdad, who is staging Iraqi plays for refugees in Damascus, said that his audience was disappearing. A month ago the al-Najum theatre near the Syrian central bank building was filled with 400 Iraqis every night. Now barely 50 turn up.
“In the last month, 60 per cent of the Iraqis I know have returned,” he said. “The situation has been changed completely. They all want to go back. Even my own family back in Baghdad is telling me the situation is much better.”
The return of so many Iraqis is a strong vote of confidence in the security situation in Baghdad. However, it also reflects the tightening of visa regulations by Syria two months ago, making it more difficult for refugees to stay and impossible for most to come back if violence flares up again. The border crossing into Syria is closed for them. Their trip to Iraq is one way.
“Not everyone is returning voluntarily,” a spokeswoman for the UNHCR said. “It’s a mixed picture. Some Iraqis report an improvement in security in Baghdad, while others fear their Syrian visas are running out.”
Abdel Samad Rahman Sultan, the Iraqi Minister of Displacement and Migration, said that about 9,000 families had returned from abroad since February. He noted, however, that 170,000 families were still listed as internally displaced people inside Iraq. Returnees often come back to ethnically cleansed neighbourhoods, sometimes finding their abandoned homes looted or even occupied by families who have fled from other parts of Iraq.
“It’s better to have a chance at peace than wait here forever,” Haidar Ibrahim, a refugee, said. Not all Iraqis in Damascus agree.
“Before, my family refused to let me even talk about going back,” Ahlam Ahmed said. “Now they are calling me every day and saying, ‘Why don’t you come?’. This is a real change. But I don’t yet trust the situation.”
Most Iraqis interviewed by The Times, though, seemed enthusiastic rather than despondent. “Throughout history Baghdad has fallen many times but she always rose up again,” Abu Ibrahim said. “We all know this and that’s why we return. We return to rebuild Baghdad now.”
Saida Zaynab, on the outskirts of Damascus, is known as “Iraq Street” because at least 350,000 Iraqis have lived in the area in the past few years.
With them they brought a little bit of home. There is the Bakery Baghdadi selling Iraqi specialty pastries such as sticky-sweet pieces of carrot-pistachio marzipan, and the Habayibna Restaurant, where guests eat charcoal-grilled fish from the Tigris.
“The Syrians were generous with us for a long time,” one diner said, “but they didn’t really like having us here. With so many more people in the city, the prices for everything went up, like flour, milk, vegetables. So it is best to go home when you can.”
Life has been hard for Iraqis in Damascus too, with most prevented from working there. It was, though, the only refuge for poor Iraqis who could not pay to get into Jordan, and many of them said that they were grateful. “Thank you, Syria,” one said, “but I am homesick.”
In a side street Iraqi families were packing their cars for the journey home. Some of the vehicles were decorated with their national flag. “We are not going to Anbar or Basra or Baghdad,” a young man said, “we are going to Iraq.”

Uprooted Iraqis
— Four million Iraqis have been uprooted. Some have fled abroad. Others remain in the country as internally displaced people (IDPs)
— On average, 2,000 crossed the Syrian border each day last year
— 14 per cent of Jordan’s current inhabitants are Iraqi refugees
— There are 1.9 million Iraqis classified as IDPs
— Of the 18 provinces in Iraq, 10 have restricted access for IDPs. Most are now concentrated in Baghdad, Anbar and Diyala
Sources: UN Human Rights Watch; Congressional Human Rights Caucus; Times archives
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How James Hodgson from Liverpool must miss the Soviet
Union, they were just as Anti-American as he is. If America
was not a superpower what would happen? Let me tell you,
India and Pakistan would go to war. China would attack
Taiwan and then Japan. Saudi Arabia and Iran would be at
war. Israel and it's neighbours would be at war. Russia
would expand again. The world economy would be much
weaker.
America holds all this back, they are a great people and a
great nation, with a will which we English have mostly lost.
The world rails against them as it did once against us.
I pray Iraq is put back together and that the ASSYRIAN people
the original non-Arab inhabitants can have their own Province
in the North on the Ninevah Plains as they have asked.
Autonomous but still part of iraq, similiar to the Kurdistan
situation. The Assyrian people are a christian people who
have been decimated by the war, only 400,000 out of 1.5
million remain in iraq.
Jeremy, Somerset, England
What wrong, 100 000 iraqis dead, 1,9 mil displaced, NO WMD, whos WRONG ! And to Claudia in Atlanta, nothing will save you from the facts of the wrongful deaths you cased. Sleep well.
Frank, Johannesburg, RSA
Sad to say democrats must crying in their lattes over this. This fantastic news is also over shadowed by the fact of how divided we are as a country. My hope is that some how Americas can come together more.
Martin, Philadelphia, USA
" I would never consider apologising to a mass murderer. If only all americans actually read the history of their country they would realise that the U.S has never been interested in anything but power and money. People and their individual rights have and never will be considered worthwhile. If the american people are happy to believe the lies they're fed then so be it. One day the rest of the world will wake up and realise we don't need the U.S as an ally and we can then leave them isolated as they so surely deserve.
James Hodgson, Liverpool, UK "
Mr. Hodgson your comment is presumably a joke? Please spare us poor American's your sanctimonious Marxist dribble.
Europeans can never legitimately pass moral judgment on Americans. Please do not trouble yourself by being our ally. We can manage quite fine without you.
cubanbob, Miami, FL USA
Well done Jonathan. The left have put all their coins in defeat and despair. Let history show, that we in the Military stayed the course for victory, when the left and it subversive liberal media counted us out.
Special Forces, Ft, Bragg, NC
Of course the Iraqis will take the money that's offered to them for returning home.
Zainon, CA, USA
So the brave and wonderful USA came to the world's rescue and saved us all from the Nazis because they're all just great guys! Naivety and ignorance breeds nothing but fascism, my friend. America joined WW2 because their economy was in ruins having never truly recovered from the Depression. They goaded Japan into attacking as they required an excuse as the Senate and a lot of the people weren't interested in an european war. I suggest you pick up a copy of the Peoples History of the United States by Howard Zim, but only if you want the truth. If you're content to wear the blindfold of the guilty then carry on as you are. Those of us who care about people and not countries will continue to look down on you with pity!
James Hodgson, Liverpool, UK
Bloody fools. If only the ____ people read the history of their country they would realize that _____ has never been interested in anything but ...
That is the world and the history of the world so don't use it against the US when the blood of Europe is everywhere and the US cleans up the mess most times or just ignores the mess.
James Callahan, Los Angeles, California
<i>Why do you think the US sacrificed blood and treasure to save Europe from the Nazis? What interest did they have beyond moral? </i>
Um, Germany declared war on them?
FGFM, Uptown Barber Shop, Chicago
Forget about the rights and wrongs of the US and UK administration. Forget about the numbers returning. The very fact that Iraqis ARE returning is a significant turning point which I hope and pray continues and the Iraqis can resume control of their own destinies.
This is another small step towards a peaceful Iraq but the coalition will still need to remain in the country to help the Iraqis build up their nation for some years to come.
Kerrin Smith, Middlesbrough, UK
"People like you don't deserve democracy". That statement in itself misses the point of America. Democracy is not somethinbg to be granted or allowed by any govt it is an unalienable human right bestowed upon all of us by God or Allah or whomever. That is how it is written up in our Constitution based on ideas that took root in the UK and Europe.
As for the rest of the world not needing the US, be thankful you are not speaking German or Russian or worse...dead, James. The media here in the US and abroad is anything but pro-US. The stories of success and progress are often buried or omitted---certainly not front page, top story as were the death and destruction of just a few months ago were.
As for being thankful, tomorrow I will raise my glass and turkey leg and be thankful I live in the greatest country on earth.
Cheers!
Chris, New York, NY
Good to see the Iraqis are finally returning in large numbers. It seems that Iraq has now pulled back from the precipice of civil war and is basically de-quagmired.
Speaking of history, Mr. Hodgson; a review of history would show that it was the British that originally threw the ME into the cluster that now exists there. The radicalism and jihadist attitudes are, in a major part, a result of your country's past imperialistic tendencies and your own lust for power and money. We in the US, however, are used to extracting your country from situations that you were never able to extract yourselves from. We're glad once again to show you exactly how it's done, though we'll have to fix your screwups in Basra first.
Mike, Orlando, Fl, USA
You people are astonishing. We liberated Iraq from a brutal dictator who ran torturous prisoners (and by the way, never gave accurate infant mortality figures to the U.N. (surprise, surprise), and we protected a new free and democratic government from terrorists who literally decapitate infant children...And you people treat us like we're terrorists?
Unless you've seen this for yourself, you cannot understand.
James B., Baghdad, Iraq
No one would be happier than I if the horror of our war on the Iraqi people over the last four years is coming to an end or even reducing its brutality. But I have seen so many corners turned, I fear this is just noise in the continuing criminal holocaust.
I will believe the Iraq situation will improve when the US starts making serious efforts to reduce infant mortality and acute malnutrition from double the rates it was under Saddam.
Tom Baxter, Tallahassee, Florida
Quickly pull down the "mission accomplished" banner and pull the troops out of Iraq immediately.
Mohammed, London, UK
I blame George Bush for this.
Sam Young, Paris, France
Thank you Jonathan, my sentiments exactly. YOU SEE? IT WORKED.
Iraq will (hopefully) continue on the path back to peace, prosperity and, I hope, democracy.
Shame on you James Hodgson. How dare you speak like that of the USA? Why do you think the US sacrificed blood and treasure to save Europe from the Nazis? What interest did they have beyond moral?
People like you don't deserve democracy, perhaps because you don't believe in it.
Richard, Norwich,
A few hundred refugees return home, and media is portraying this as their Victory and liberation of Iraq, just shows how pathetic western media, and how easily they can fool their audiences. How can a place where soldiers with tanks and guns roam around neighbourhoods be 'happy'?
Maz, Watford, uk
I would never consider apologising to a mass murderer. If only all americans actually read the history of their country they would realise that the U.S has never been interested in anything but power and money. People and their individual rights have and never will be considered worthwhile. If the american people are happy to believe the lies they're fed then so be it. One day the rest of the world will wake up and realise we don't need the U.S as an ally and we can then leave them isolated as they so surely deserve.
James Hodgson, Liverpool, UK
Alas dear Claudia, you know that can never happen, let us just sit back and watch the good news unfold............Although i dare say not through the U.S. media.
michael McGinn, Atlanta, U.S.
To all you cycical lefties out there - here's just more evidence that you were wrong on Iraq.
Jonathan, Stockholm,
So is the world going to apologize to Bush when Iraq becomes a happy and prosperous place?
Claudia, Atlanta, USA